Sorry, don't know what that means.champ2107:
ctel and the other line is 1/8 to 1/8.
Kinda depends on what you're aiming at, doesn't it? CB edge-to-AorC is just a fatter cut than 1/8. Both of them aim the CB's center off the edge of the OB. Neither is better or worse in that respect.Using an A or C will be a bad miss
Sorry, don't know what that means.
Kinda depends on what you're aiming at, doesn't it? CB edge-to-AorC is just a fatter cut than 1/8. Both of them aim the CB's center off the edge of the OB. Neither is better or worse in that respect.
More importantly, skipping A or C and going past them to 1/8 leaves an unnecessary gap in the available cut angles.
pj
chgo
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I believe this now correct? no wonder i could never make those 60 degree shots lol
I don't list cut angles for each of the 6 lines of aim, so I'm not sure where you got those numbers. The exact cut angle each line of aim will create depends on the exact CB-OB distance and the exact bridge length used. For a given CB-OB distance and given bridge length, we could figure out the cut angle created by each line of aim, but I honestly don't think this information would be very useful.So all the shots are 15*,30*,45*,60*,75* cuts i notice on your site. So how do i make the 60* shot using stans system, it seems to fall in between ccb-robe-b-lp and the ccb-robe-1/8-lp or am i missing the 15*? am i having a brain cramp?The 6 lines of aim are clearly defined here:
The first two depend on CB-OB distance (see the "*" note).
Ok, i think you are saying the 60* shot is made by ccb/robe - L1/8 cb to L1/8 ob but with a right pivot, was that on the dvd, lol?
Thanks for the drawing. I still don't know what you meant about CTE line and 1/8 line, but I don't think that matters. Your drawing does clear up one source of confusion for me - I now know that the "1/8 line" isn't CB edge to OB 1/8 but CB 1/8 to OB 1/8, which is just another way to aim CB edge to OB 1/4 (A or C thin cuts).![]()
have a good look Pj cause i going to remove it as soon as u see it ok
I don't list cut angles for each of the 6 lines of aim, so I'm not sure where you got those numbers. The exact cut angle each line of aim will create depends on the exact CB-OB distance and the exact bridge length used. For a given CB-OB distance and given bridge length, we could figure out the cut angle created by each line of aim, but I honestly don't think this information would be very useful.
The important point here is that 6 lines of aim will produce 6 and only 6 different cut angles. One difficulty is in picking the line of aim that creates a cut angle closest to the one you need for a particular shot. The other difficulty is: even if you do pick the line of aim that creates a cut closest to the one you need, the shot still might not go. 6 lines of aim is not enough to pocket balls over a wide range of cut angles from 0 to 90; although, the 6 lines will work for some shots, provided you always choose the correct line of aim from the 6 options for each shot.
Regards,
Dave
Thanks for the drawing. I still don't know what you meant about CTE line and 1/8 line, but I don't think that matters. Your drawing does clear up one source of confusion for me - I now know that the "1/8 line" isn't CB edge to OB 1/8 but CB 1/8 to OB 1/8, which is just another way to aim CB edge to OB 1/4 (A or C thin cuts).
Thanks again,
pj
chgo
Not really. They're both the same alignment, so they're both aiming in space.what i meant was ccb to edge of ob and 1/8 on cb to 1/8 on ob, you figured it out and now you should be able to see that your not aiming in space, right?
Not really. They're both the same alignment, so they're both aiming in space.
Whether you aim CB edge to OB 1/4 (Stan advises against this) or CB 1/8 to OB 1/8 (Stan's recommended alternative), you're aiming the center of the CB at the same place off to the side of the OB. I thought that's what Stan didn't like about CB edge to OB 1/4, but since (I now see) CB 1/8 to OB 1/8 is exactly the same alignment, I don't understand why he likes one more than the other.
pj
chgo
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ccb to robe with an A reference and a right pivot
This picture is visual of being locked in (missile lock), your next move will be straight down for a right pre pivot, no if ands or buts about where the cue goes! just straight to a right pre pivot position and trust yourself that you made perfect visual, its just that simple.
Stans system is based on having this visual behind a ball, this is how he designed it![]()
That's correct (for a cut to the left).ok well i figured out what i was missing according to your table, that was the medium thin shot. Which would be ccb to robe, 1/8 cble to 1/8 obre with a right pivot if i understand your table?I don't list cut angles for each of the 6 lines of aim, so I'm not sure where you got those numbers. The exact cut angle each line of aim will create depends on the exact CB-OB distance and the exact bridge length used. For a given CB-OB distance and given bridge length, we could figure out the cut angle created by each line of aim, but I honestly don't think this information would be very useful.
The important point here is that 6 lines of aim will produce 6 and only 6 different cut angles. One difficulty is in picking the line of aim that creates a cut angle closest to the one you need for a particular shot. The other difficulty is: even if you do pick the line of aim that creates a cut closest to the one you need, the shot still might not go. 6 lines of aim is not enough to pocket balls over a wide range of cut angles from 0 to 90; although, the 6 lines will work for some shots, provided you always choose the correct line of aim from the 6 options for each shot.
Wouldn't it look the same whether you're going to pivot right or left?champ2107:
ccb to robe with an A reference and a right pivot
Wouldn't it look the same whether you're going to pivot right or left?
pj
chgo
Obviously, his table is incomplete!!