Question for strong barbox players only!

Mustardeer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m flying out of state next month to play 10b, 3 sets on a barbox ( diamond ), 3k a set, races to 15. I’m the favorite on paper ( fargo ) but I haven’t been playing. The problem is I only have a 9’ diamond at my place and the closest diamond barbox to me is 40 min away. The break is obviously gonna be a factor… Question, can I get ready on my home table or do I have to train on a 7’? I have a few cheap barbox practice sets lined up with friends. My work schedule is crazy ( I own a biz ), so I only have 2-3hrs a day this month to get ready. Not worried about the heat, not my 1st rodeo, but the other guy has been around too. I’ve asked a few pro friends and got completely different answers. I’m nowhere near pro speed myself.
 

Mustardeer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
We have zero quality 7 footers near me, but I play some bar box tournaments and I find that speed is my biggest adjustment. If I can focus on playing the right patterns and minimize cue ball movement, then I usually can play a similar speed.
I play for corners and less for sides on barboxes I think and I’m probably more aggressive on 7 footers. Yeah there are little things like that, jumping on barboxes can be tougher sometimes too..
 

Mensabum

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
I’m flying out of state next month to play 10b, 3 sets on a barbox ( diamond ), 3k a set, races to 15. I’m the favorite on paper ( fargo ) but I haven’t been playing. The problem is I only have a 9’ diamond at my place and the closest diamond barbox to me is 40 min away. The break is obviously gonna be a factor… Question, can I get ready on my home table or do I have to train on a 7’? I have a few cheap barbox practice sets lined up with friends. My work schedule is crazy ( I own a biz ), so I only have 2-3hrs a day this month to get ready. Not worried about the heat, not my 1st rodeo, but the other guy has been around too. I’ve asked a few pro friends and got completely different answers. I’m nowhere near pro speed myself.
I would recommend NOT spending any time on a BB b4 playing on one. If you're the caliber player I believe you to be, once you get set on that mousetrap you'll tear that bad boy a new one!! Shots fall like rain on those little babies and cluster busting will come natch to you. Let 'er fly and enjoy what imo will be a very fun and profitable evening for you. Just stay out of your head!!! BB's are a walk in the park, imo, after hammering away on a big table. Take that confidence factor with you.
 

Badpenguin

Well-known member
I often wonder if the folk who always act as if 7 footers are child's play ever actually play on 7 footers against anyone who is performs highly on them. I'm not exactly a world beater or anything, but I've owned both a 7 footer and 9 footer, and the difference is fairly considerable. In my experience there is a less room for error on a 7 footer, the stroke is different, patterns are different, and cue ball control is more precise.

Maybe try...

Shorten the stroke, more of a poke stroke.

On your 9 footer throw out 10 balls on either the top or bottom half of the table and run them all, limiting cue ball travel and pockets to that half of the table. Not necessarily in rotation, it is to get a feel for the more limited cue ball movement and dink stroking...
 

ChrisinNC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m flying out of state next month to play 10b, 3 sets on a barbox ( diamond ), 3k a set, races to 15. I’m the favorite on paper ( fargo ) but I haven’t been playing. The problem is I only have a 9’ diamond at my place and the closest diamond barbox to me is 40 min away. The break is obviously gonna be a factor… Question, can I get ready on my home table or do I have to train on a 7’? I have a few cheap barbox practice sets lined up with friends. My work schedule is crazy ( I own a biz ), so I only have 2-3hrs a day this month to get ready. Not worried about the heat, not my 1st rodeo, but the other guy has been around too. I’ve asked a few pro friends and got completely different answers. I’m nowhere near pro speed myself.
It’s a different game - you need to put in significant time on a Diamond barbox, if you can. Banks, jump shots, combos and breaking up problem balls/clusters are skills that that will come up far more often on a barbox.

But perhaps the biggest adjustment you’ll have to make is speed. Those diamond bar boxes, at least the ones with the black diamond rubber like ours have super fast cushions, especially with Simonis cloth. It will take you a little bit of practice time to adjust to the speed of those tables and cushions compared to the speed of the 9 foot table you normally play on, even if it’s a Diamond.
 
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Texas Carom Club

9ball did to billiards what hiphop did to america
Silver Member
I often wonder if the folk who always act as if 7 footers are child's play ever actually play on 7 footers against anyone who is performs highly on them. I'm not exactly a world beater or anything, but I've owned both a 7 footer and 9 footer, and the difference is fairly considerable. In my experience there is a less room for error on a 7 footer, the stroke is different, patterns are different, and cue ball control is more precise.

Maybe try...

Shorten the stroke, more of a poke stroke.

On your 9 footer throw out 10 balls on either the top or bottom half of the table and run them all, limiting cue ball travel and pockets to that half of the table. Not necessarily in rotation, it is to get a feel for the more limited cue ball movement and dink stroking...
they dont, but they find out quick
 

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
First off, get "barbox" out of your head. The seven foot Diamond will play more like a nine foot Diamond than a seven foot Valley or clone. Not just like either though so I would find time to make a couple trips to the seven foot Diamonds in the last ten days before the matchup.

If the opponent is a small table master and plays smart you are going to sweat some. If I was trying to judge weight I would say the small table specialist could gain a half ball to a ball on the short track. You said you had an edge on paper, I think I would go in with the thought that you are dead even on a small table and you are going to have to scratch and dig from the first shot. Everything about position play and shape is going to be a little different. Work on your safety game some while I am thinking about it, safeties you play, safeties you shoot out of, are both going to be tighter.

These matches are always good fun for the spectators and peanut gallery. Main thing is not to go in taking either the table or your opponent lightly. The rude awakening can cost you a game or two before you get your balance back.

Hu
 

MattPoland

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I tend to find that on a 9’ you can send the cueball two rails often to get ideal shape along the line of the next shot. But on a bar box (especially with fast cloth) it sometimes means the speed needed to maintain the stun or draw required to come out two rails starts to threaten overrunning position. So on a bar box I tend to see one rail position being used more often. Nip, bounce. Nip, bounce. Nip, bounce. You might be needing to come across the line of the next shot instead of along it. So good luck on your speed control.

(I know there are still times two rail shapes apply on a bar box and honestly it’s worth setting up to use them. Just commenting that they might not be reliable “as often”)
 
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iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Diamond bar boxes can bounce springier than the diamond 9’. (Both blue label). That’s probably the biggest difference imo.

The break you’ll figure out in a few min. Copy what your opponent is doing if you’re not successful.

I just gambled 5 sets on a diamond barbox. We were using the magic rack. I was blasting them and my opponent was medium speed. I changed to medium speed and a slightly high hit. That made a couple balls and parked whitey. From the side rail.
 

Mustardeer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I often wonder if the folk who always act as if 7 footers are child's play ever actually play on 7 footers against anyone who is performs highly on them. I'm not exactly a world beater or anything, but I've owned both a 7 footer and 9 footer, and the difference is fairly considerable. In my experience there is a less room for error on a 7 footer, the stroke is different, patterns are different, and cue ball control is more precise.

Maybe try...

Shorten the stroke, more of a poke stroke.

On your 9 footer throw out 10 balls on either the top or bottom half of the table and run them all, limiting cue ball travel and pockets to that half of the table. Not necessarily in rotation, it is to get a feel for the more limited cue ball movement and

I often wonder if the folk who always act as if 7 footers are child's play ever actually play on 7 footers against anyone who is performs highly on them. I'm not exactly a world beater or anything, but I've owned both a 7 footer and 9 footer, and the difference is fairly considerable. In my experience there is a less room for error on a 7 footer, the stroke is different, patterns are different, and cue ball control is more precise.

Maybe try...

Shorten the stroke, more of a poke stroke.

On your 9 footer throw out 10 balls on either the top or bottom half of the table and run them all, limiting cue ball travel and pockets to that half of the table. Not necessarily in rotation, it is to get a feel for the more limited cue ball movement and dink stroking...
I do lots of half table drills yes, but it’s still not the same. The break, etc
 

Mustardeer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Diamond bar boxes can bounce springier than the diamond 9’. (Both blue label). That’s probably the biggest difference imo.

The break you’ll figure out in a few min. Copy what your opponent is doing if you’re not successful.

I just gambled 5 sets on a diamond barbox. We were using the magic rack. I was blasting them and my opponent was medium speed. I changed to medium speed and a slightly high hit. That made a couple balls and parked whitey. From the side rail.
His backer already insisted on a wooden rack and I said fine. Cant say too much cause I think they’re on azb. Yeah my break is pretty controlled scratching on the break is death on a barbox but it can still happen to anyone.
 

Fore Rail

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Question, can I get ready on my home table or do I have to train on a 7’? I have a few cheap barbox practice sets lined up with friends.
Get on the barbox as much as you possibly can & practice your safety play. Get proficient at those little touch shots that absolutely do require the most finesse. Make sure those safeties are locked up the best you can.

Play out every different scenario that you can think of that your opponent will try to play against you. Learn not only what is the appropriate response, but how to execute the return.

Work on running say three balls that are open & makeable, but yet still in a cluster. Most any good player can make balls when wide open. This not always going to be the case on a 7ft Diamond.
 
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