Radial pins?

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AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just a quick question for you cuemakers out there.

I have a Jacoby with a radial pin. Are all radial pins the same? If I go and buy lets say a schon shaft with a radial pin will it fit my jacoby? The reason I am asking is I am looking to buy a predator shaft :o and want to know if any radial pin will fit my butt. Thanks for your help AZ! :)

This is not my cue but it is the same joint and pin.

http://www.jacobycue.com/cue_detail.cfm?cue=0108-22
 
The Uni-Loc radial pins are all the same. Most of the American cuemakers I know use the Uni Loc. They're expensive but they are very high quality.
 
there are some imported asian cues that say 'radial' pin, but it's not the same as the uni-loc radial
 
McChen said:
there are some imported asian cues that say 'radial' pin, but it's not the same as the uni-loc radial
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True, Omega, Varner, Gulyassy and Schmelke use that pin.
 
as long as the pin has the right specs it really doesn't matter where it's from or who made it.i see no reason for paying double the price for a name.
 
The import pins had a diffrent thread pitch and were not interchangable unless they have changed lately.
 
masonh said:
as long as the pin has the right specs it really doesn't matter where it's from or who made it.i see no reason for paying double the price for a name.
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Yes, I see your point but I would be careful of who I choose to get the copies from as all are not equal. I bought some from one source that the threads were the same at the shaft end and the butt end. No glue relief, and, immediately hydraulicked and cracked the forearms on two cues. The ones from Uniloc are either electropolished or silver nitrate treated to be very smooth and shiny. Usually the cheaper ones don't take this extra step and need much polishing on a wheel to look good. I had a 1000 made with the exact specs but in brass instead of stainless so that they could easily be polished.

Dick
 
Dickie,
I think I know of which pins you are talking about. I took a 1/16 end mill and cut a slot up the stud side through the barrel. been using them ever since. Yes the polishing is a bit of a pain. But as my dad always said "All good things take time"

John
 
rhncue said:
Yes, I see your point but I would be careful of who I choose to get the copies from as all are not equal. I bought some from one source that the threads were the same at the shaft end and the butt end. No glue relief, and, immediately hydraulicked and cracked the forearms on two cues. The ones from Uniloc are either electropolished or silver nitrate treated to be very smooth and shiny. Usually the cheaper ones don't take this extra step and need much polishing on a wheel to look good. I had a 1000 made with the exact specs but in brass instead of stainless so that they could easily be polished.

Dick
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I believe the new UniLocs are not made here anymore.
The ones I had made are fine. The barrel does vary from .370-.371 but have been dead nuts. Last Saturday I put one on and the runout on the pilot was 2 tenths.
These have broached glue relief. Tom has been missing of late though.
 
Pin Heigth and Shoulder

I was wondering if you are aware that not all Radial pins have the same installed Height.. Some guys stand out Height is 1 1/2" Tall. Check the depth of the Shaft's Threaded Hole. Also, Some cues have the shoulder of the Radial Pins Shank "Stick-out" a little above the Face. Might need a counterbore.. I had a Joss West that had that.. :)
 
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mason,

One reason to buy the Ini-Loc is quality. Under a 15X loupe they still look great. The others look like a file.

Putting an extra $10 into a cue to insure it's the best doesn't seem too expensive to me.
 
I was just mentioning something to that effect (in another thread), that the surface finish on some of these close tolorance Pins have rough surface finishes on the threads working faces.. It's like a microsize file filing the internal threads. In a small way...
 
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CueCaps said:
I was wondering if you are aware that not all Radial pins have the same installed Heigth.. Some guys stand out Height is 1 1/2" Tall. Check the depth of the Shaft's Threaded Hole. Also, Some cues have the shoulder of the Radial Pins Shank "Stick-out" a little above the Face. Might need a counterbore.. I had a Joss West that had that.. :)
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The knock-off do come in different lengths at the bottom but the top ( ones with long pilot ) are about the same.
Just like all pins, you have to make an installation jig for them.
I don't like the barrel sticking out. I like 7.5 threads exposed and the bottom thread is barely above the face. And just like any pins, epoxy has to be cleaned out from the face so a counterbore helps ( a cuetip or two ).
 
JoeyInCali said:
Tom has been missing of late though.
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I just talked to him last week and it only took one call. Said to give him a few weeks on the order and that he'd call me back in a few hours with a total. He never called back, but I'll call him this week so I can get payment out to him.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I just talked to him last week and it only took one call. Said to give him a few weeks on the order and that he'd call me back in a few hours with a total. He never called back, but I'll call him this week so I can get payment out to him.
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Just order a thousand then. :)
I'll take some brass and titanium ballscrews.:D
 
Yes, I see your point but I would be careful of who I choose to get the copies from as all are not equal. I bought some from one source that the threads were the same at the shaft end and the butt end. No glue relief, and, immediately hydraulicked and cracked the forearms on two cues. The ones from Uniloc are either electropolished or silver nitrate treated to be very smooth and shiny. Usually the cheaper ones don't take this extra step and need much polishing on a wheel to look good. I had a 1000 made with the exact specs but in brass instead of stainless so that they could easily be polished.
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don't worry they are the nuts.they are always dead nuts and need no polishing.you might consider cutting your own glue line in them.

i have since switched to the 3/8-10 anyway,but still have some laying around.i tlike the new 3/8-10 pin better.

Joey mine are .372",i guess our mics are different.we talked to him Friday and he said he is going to work this week.
 
I just talked to him again. He said he's really busy and if somebody hasn't gotten a hold of him, they haven't left him a phone message.
 
masonh said:
don't worry they are the nuts.they are always dead nuts and need no polishing.you might consider cutting your own glue line in them.

i have since switched to the 3/8-10 anyway,but still have some laying around.i tlike the new 3/8-10 pin better.

Joey mine are .372",i guess our mics are different.we talked to him Friday and he said he is going to work this week.
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Great to hear that.
They are the nuts.
I did one two weeks ago. I didn't even bore the bottom threads' hole.
Just drilled N-drill the long 5/16 center drill, peck drill, clean and drill some more.
Overbored the alignment barrel's hole but the pilot still ran at 2 tenths.
 
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