Rain-X
- Thread starter tduncan
- Start date
Not sure but i guess you could play in a rainstorm ! :lol:
Yea, I have hear this before, so as using lighter fluid to clean your shaft.
Lots of people don't like abrasive, but inorder for you to smooth the shaft, I on't know any other way but to smooth it with light abrasive. The idea isto remove as little diameter of the shaft as possible.
I like a packof cue smooth. Or I use 1500grit than 2000grit and if you want to go further, go 2500grit to 3000grit as well. That will smooth it alot.
If you want to use an agent to smooth the shaft, use a wax. Light coat of cue wax (or can use butcher's wax or car wax with carnaubu) buff and polish with cotten or microfiber cloth and use a piece of leather to burnish again.
This process makes it very smooth and it also seals the shaft and keeps alot of dirt out of it.
Hope this helps,
Chino
Lots of people don't like abrasive, but inorder for you to smooth the shaft, I on't know any other way but to smooth it with light abrasive. The idea isto remove as little diameter of the shaft as possible.
I like a packof cue smooth. Or I use 1500grit than 2000grit and if you want to go further, go 2500grit to 3000grit as well. That will smooth it alot.
If you want to use an agent to smooth the shaft, use a wax. Light coat of cue wax (or can use butcher's wax or car wax with carnaubu) buff and polish with cotten or microfiber cloth and use a piece of leather to burnish again.
This process makes it very smooth and it also seals the shaft and keeps alot of dirt out of it.
Hope this helps,
Chino
I don't really like the idea of abrasives. I have mine cleaned and re-sealed once a year when I have my tip replaced. My cue-maker does the cleaning/re-sealing job for free because I am paying for the tip install, and have a good relationship with him.
Alcohol wipes, wet wipes, a rag lightly sprayed with windex (or any other cleaning solution), and even in a pinch, the paper towel I used to dry my hands works for cleaning. I then immediately burnish with a leather strap.
All in all, clean hands probably make the biggest difference.
Alcohol wipes, wet wipes, a rag lightly sprayed with windex (or any other cleaning solution), and even in a pinch, the paper towel I used to dry my hands works for cleaning. I then immediately burnish with a leather strap.
All in all, clean hands probably make the biggest difference.
Rain X is for protecting decks and fences, not?
With so many cue products out there for cleaning and preserving your cue, why would a person feel the need to dick with something that wasn't made for a cue.
Just because Sani Flush works great to clean out your plumbing, it doesn't mean its good for cleaning your cue.
With so many cue products out there for cleaning and preserving your cue, why would a person feel the need to dick with something that wasn't made for a cue.
Just because Sani Flush works great to clean out your plumbing, it doesn't mean its good for cleaning your cue.
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Alcohol is not a good idea as it removes moisture from the cue. The best thing you can do for your shaft is to leave it alone. Let it develop a nice patina from use. Wipe it down with a dry towel when you are done playing and just keep your hands clean. you will be surprised what clean hands do for you as far as having a slick feeling shaft. You can use a piece of leather and burnish the shaft with that or a dollar bill. Old bills are great for this as they have a light oil build up from being handled so much and they really do a good job of buffing a shaft.
Almost any kind of sandpaper is a no-no but if you are going to use something then go for something like micromesh which is used to get scratches out of aircraft windshields.
The darker your shaft is the better off it is. Then it's nicely sealed and it's moisture level is locked in. It probably won't move or warp at that point. Start sanding on it, using liquids and you are going to raise the grain and open the pores and allow it to take on more moisture or allow what's there to escape.
I know people live their white shafts. I used to as well and used to clean mine every day. I made good money on the road cleaning shaft and repairing tips. No jokes
But I realized that "dirty" shafts hit better and seemed to stay straight. And over the years and conversations with cuemakers have revealed that I am right. Once a shaft has developed a patina from years of play you should leave it alone.
Of course if you don't believe me then we sell a whole bunch of cue cleaning products that will make your shaft as pretty as the day it was born.
Almost any kind of sandpaper is a no-no but if you are going to use something then go for something like micromesh which is used to get scratches out of aircraft windshields.
The darker your shaft is the better off it is. Then it's nicely sealed and it's moisture level is locked in. It probably won't move or warp at that point. Start sanding on it, using liquids and you are going to raise the grain and open the pores and allow it to take on more moisture or allow what's there to escape.
I know people live their white shafts. I used to as well and used to clean mine every day. I made good money on the road cleaning shaft and repairing tips. No jokes
But I realized that "dirty" shafts hit better and seemed to stay straight. And over the years and conversations with cuemakers have revealed that I am right. Once a shaft has developed a patina from years of play you should leave it alone.
Of course if you don't believe me then we sell a whole bunch of cue cleaning products that will make your shaft as pretty as the day it was born.
Actually, rain-x is for the windshield of your car. Thompsons water seal is for decks and fences. Im not sure what is in rain-x(i do use it in my vehicles washer fluid), but Im pretty sure there is no way in hell im gonna spray or wipe that stuff on my cue! lol!
Joe
Well not to say that RainX is good or bad for a cue but most of the products on the market that are marketed as cue maintenance products were not orginaly develop for use on cues. Most have their origins as other products such as Cue Silk which is basically a leave-in conditioner for hair. Most are repackaged products from other industries.
I used to use toothpaste to clean ferrules and Comet to clean shafts.
These days the thing that I keep in mind is that I want the least amount of gunk between the wood on the shaft and my hand. This means that whatever I would use to clean or seal the shaft I have to know that it's not going to make things worse later when it reacts with moisture and dust.
That's why I advocate just buffing as long as there as no nicks and dings that need to be fixed. And LIGHT sanding with super high grit sandpaper if needed at all followed by buffing with an old low denomination bill.
I tried this around three years ago and it sucked. It worked sort of okay for an hour or so, but wore off quickly and eventually made things a lot worse. It's not nearly as good as any of the products specifically designed for cues.
Not mention that it is a skin irritant.
Other than the fact that it sucks and rots your skin it's okay though.
In a drawer beside my work station I have at least one bottle of every cue slickering product in captivity and none of them work as well as nothing. Nothing on the shaft works the best. N-O-T-H-I-N-G works great. Just clean hands, maybe some alcohol to cut the blue stuff. Maybe a swipe or two with a Magic Eraser to get the 'stuff' off and then burnish. Don't put anything on the shaft and it will be fine. But.... you'll probably be like me and spend $$$$$$$$$$ on 'stuff' that will get sticky and have to be removed with alcohol and a ME.
Just clean and burnish.
Just clean and burnish.
I like my shaft clean so I wipe it down with a dry towel burnish it with leather, tiger makes a good one or ob and wash my hands, do your self a favor just play with it and time will condition it naturally.If your in a match and it bothers you take a bathroom brake wash your hand, come back wipe down your shaft and get that cheese.
So, essentially what you are saying is that beer works good on your shaft.
Slap whoever told you to do this.
My recommendation is when you get your shaft smooth, and clean apply this stuff lightly, allow to dry 20 minutes, buff with a soft cotton cloth, when the shaft is not as smooth as you like reapply, NUFF SAID.
WAHOO it NOON and the Pool Room is opened
WAHOO it NOON and the Pool Room is opened