What are recut points and how can you tell the differnce?
Recut points
- Thread starter Jason Koopman
- Start date
Recut points are when you cut your "v" groove in the forearm, inlay a piece of wood for the point, cut a "v" groove into the point you just inlaid, glue in your next piece of point wood, etc. It gives you the different wood variations like veneers but it is done with solid pieces of wood instead.
With veneers you usually see a miter at the tip of each point.
Check out this thread...http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=107062&highlight=recut
With veneers you usually see a miter at the tip of each point.
Check out this thread...http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=107062&highlight=recut
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> Recuts work like this. A 90 degree groove is cut down the length of the forearm,like you would normally do for a short-spliced point,where a square of wood is glued into the groove,then the excess is cut off and the whole piece is turned back round.
Where this differs is instead of using a stack of colored or different woods,you glue a solid piece back in,turn it back round,and cut another 90 degree groove,and repeat.
The end result is a forearm with what looks like a colored/contrasted veneer,but with no seam at the tip.
It's a LOT more work to make it look right,and a potential hazard as there are a LOT more chances to have something go wrong like cutting a groove to deep or it running out while turning and having the points come out funny.
There are jigs and fixtures that some use to overcome this,but there are not that many cuemakers that have a "talent" for them. It's still a fairly new technique as far as I know,thus there aren't that many that do them regularly. A cuemaker that does them well,however,should be considered at least middle-elite. Having them come out really close or perfect is a sure sign of world-class craftsmanship. Correspondingly,they are more expensive to the buyer as well. Hope this helps,Tommy D.
Where this differs is instead of using a stack of colored or different woods,you glue a solid piece back in,turn it back round,and cut another 90 degree groove,and repeat.
The end result is a forearm with what looks like a colored/contrasted veneer,but with no seam at the tip.
It's a LOT more work to make it look right,and a potential hazard as there are a LOT more chances to have something go wrong like cutting a groove to deep or it running out while turning and having the points come out funny.
There are jigs and fixtures that some use to overcome this,but there are not that many cuemakers that have a "talent" for them. It's still a fairly new technique as far as I know,thus there aren't that many that do them regularly. A cuemaker that does them well,however,should be considered at least middle-elite. Having them come out really close or perfect is a sure sign of world-class craftsmanship. Correspondingly,they are more expensive to the buyer as well. Hope this helps,Tommy D.
Heres some pics.
http://www.waynecustomcues.com/recut-points.html
http://www.waynecustomcues.com/recut-points.html
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Wow, that looks really nice!
:yes:
That is GEORGEOUS, thanks for the comments and the pic!
WE HAVE TRIED TO MAKE RECUT POINT EASY HERES A VIDEO HOPE THIS HELPS
http://www.motionbox.com/videos/d490d5b11a19e65c
ONE THING NEEDED TO DO GOOD RECUTS IS A WAY TO REMOVE AND REPLACE CUE WITH EXACT ACCURACY WITHOUT THAT YOUR PEEING IN THE WIND
http://www.motionbox.com/videos/d490d5b11a19e65c
ONE THING NEEDED TO DO GOOD RECUTS IS A WAY TO REMOVE AND REPLACE CUE WITH EXACT ACCURACY WITHOUT THAT YOUR PEEING IN THE WIND
Thanks for the comments everybody!
A recut fixture allowing you to remove it 100 times if wanted with acuracy
its the white delrin plastic on the end of the forearm
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