Refinishing
- Thread starter thomba02
- Start date
SPI Universal Clear
There are many good finishes for pool cues and a few not so good.
I have tried 8 or 10 different ones.
Lacquer...... east to apply and looks nice but never seemed to fully harden and it doesn't seem to take the abuse.
Automotive clear coat...... seems to be one or the very best for gloss and hardness. But is requires a good spray booth with ventilation and good spraying equipment. oh yea and it can kill you ........ it is very toxic
Urethane.... solvent based..... makes a nice hard finish but some are a little yellowing.... even has been done with spray cans.....
Urethane water based... I have tried at least 4 different ones....most get a blueish cast when put on thick....but water based urethane can be apply with a foam brush with excellent results
Epoxy... easy to apply but can get bubbles if it and the cue is not warm.... Cue components and Hightower both sell one.... West System is good, I use Max 1618 for a sealer/base coat.... Epoxy buffs to a nice shine but not brilliant....
After trying all of the above I have settled on Max 1618 for a base coat and Ceramithane water based urethane for a top coat........... any water based finish must be hung for a week to fully cure in a warm and dry environment before buffing
just my opinion and experience
Kim
I have tried 8 or 10 different ones.
Lacquer...... east to apply and looks nice but never seemed to fully harden and it doesn't seem to take the abuse.
Automotive clear coat...... seems to be one or the very best for gloss and hardness. But is requires a good spray booth with ventilation and good spraying equipment. oh yea and it can kill you ........ it is very toxic
Urethane.... solvent based..... makes a nice hard finish but some are a little yellowing.... even has been done with spray cans.....
Urethane water based... I have tried at least 4 different ones....most get a blueish cast when put on thick....but water based urethane can be apply with a foam brush with excellent results
Epoxy... easy to apply but can get bubbles if it and the cue is not warm.... Cue components and Hightower both sell one.... West System is good, I use Max 1618 for a sealer/base coat.... Epoxy buffs to a nice shine but not brilliant....
After trying all of the above I have settled on Max 1618 for a base coat and Ceramithane water based urethane for a top coat........... any water based finish must be hung for a week to fully cure in a warm and dry environment before buffing
just my opinion and experience
Kim
Kim,
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I've tried almost all the above with similar results, though I have also tried the System3 epoxy products which I like. They are hard and clear. I have some 1618 on it's way and am looking forward to trying it. It's interesting that you find Ceramithane (which I also have) on top of 1618 the best. I'll have to try that and see why.
Thanks again :thumbup:
Gary
Randy
You have any examples? do you hit it pretty hard like instructions say and if so have you had any issues with trapping solvents?
I thinned mine around 10% to volume.
20% is too much.
It shines pretty good . Needs a good base coat of course.
My local refinisher swears by euro clear variety.
But, available in huge volume only.
Hi Jake,
You've touched on a topic that got my attention, "trapping solvents".
What do you see in the finish that suggests trapped solvents?
I have a condition that I have to deal with sometimes, especially when I lay it on a little thick.
The result is a collection of small white dots and they seem to gather themselves together.
I know how to get rid of them after the fact but I'd like to prevent before they start.
I shoot much thinner coats lately and haven't seen the dots as often.
Could this be what you're referring to when you say "trapping solvents"?
Thanx, KJ
KJ,
I agree with what you are stating.
I have not had any dive back or solvent poling whatsoever in the last three years, none.
In my case this are the corrective actions I have embraced that got the job done.
1. Apply 3 light coats with a 15 minimum flash time between coats. Re coating too soon will lead to popping for sure. My three coat adds about .002 per side or .004 total.
2. Keep temperature environment within the 15 degree range of the hardener spec.
3. Maintain a very low humidity within the air system to the gun by changing the desiccant media at the air receiver and final drying filter once a week or before a spraying session which ever comes first.
I also use a flow enhancer which makes wet sanding starting at 1200 grit possible. Progressive higher grits take almost nothing being removed from the coating dia. Not sure if that addiction help the solvent pop but I changed to that also 3 years ago???
Those three things made all the difference and is my standard operating procedure.
JMO,
Rick
KJ, you described it perfectly. Finishing is my biggest challenge. Initially I was scared of the gun and only dusting the cue "with literally 100 coats" then I went the extreme opposite with drowning it. Sometimes I've gotten the white specs and it blows.
I've found that if I spray a lite tac coat and wait 7 minutes then blast it...I'm safe.
I was just wondering if there was a better mouse trap. My life is a lot better when I can lay it on heavy