Rest

bubsbug said:
Has anyone used this item or anything like it. I need something to keep bar cues from becoming a helicoper.
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Joe Porper used to sell a similar product that was meant to bolt on the back end of the lathe. I have had it for a number of years and it works great.
 
Mase said:
Joe Porper used to sell a similar product that was meant to bolt on the back end of the lathe. I have had it for a number of years and it works great.
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I totally agree, I also use one, it came with my B-Lathe. It is more compact, and will do the same thing. The item in this post is just another knock off of Joe's inventions. The dude has invented so many items to make life easier for players and cue builders a like and the only credit he receives is someone steeling his designs.
 
rayjay said:
Looks like it would leave black marks on the shaft where it spins.
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I have one of these http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5569 Although it looks like the price has went up since I bought mine. You just make a Delrin collet that fits snugly on the butt where you want the support and then dial that to center and leave the coller in the Steady Rest from then on.

As far as Joe inventing a steady rest, I believe he was about 150 years late. Joe has come up with an awful lot of innovations over the years, most of which never worked properly, in my opinion.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I have one of these http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5569 Although it looks like the price has went up since I bought mine. You just make a Delrin collet that fits snugly on the butt where you want the support and then dial that to center and leave the coller in the Steady Rest from then on.

As far as Joe inventing a steady rest, I believe he was about 150 years late. Joe has come up with an awful lot of innovations over the years, most of which never worked properly, in my opinion.

Dick
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Dick my comments were not intended to insinuate that Joe, invented the stead rest, just that since he came out with his version of the steady rest that many many similar copies have come along that have copied it.

Also Dick, I do agree that many of his inventions or innovations may have not been perfect. However, with the proper refinement any idea can become much more than than the original concept, I mean look at MS Dos, while Bill Gates did not invent it, he certainly refined it.

But, at least Gates bought the original design from another company so he did own the rights and have the necessary insight to make it what DOS is today. At least He did not just copy someones else's design and market it.

No matter, Joe has made a contribution and he deserves be respected for that.
 
Custom fishing rod builders have been using contraptions like that forever. I doubt Joe came up with the idea all on his own, He simply applied it to pool cues.
 
cuemaker03 said:
Custom fishing rod builders have been using contraptions like that forever. I doubt Joe came up with the idea all on his own, He simply applied it to pool cues.
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You doubt it, thats your right, however if you have some information to dispute it please lets hear or see it, if not it's only your opinion which is also your right.

Have a good night!!!
 
manwon said:
You doubt it, thats your right, however if you have some information to dispute it please lets hear or see it, if not it's only your opinion which is also your right.

Have a good night!!!
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Craig,

Not wanting to pile on here, but, wood turners have been stablizing
rotating spindles for eons, employing all manner of clever devices.

A cue butt or shaft is a type of tapered spindle.

I think we all understand that Joe is clever, but this paticular
idea would hardly qualify as a new inovation.

Dale<don't get me started on Unix and Xerox Research Park>
 
rayjay said:
Looks like it would leave black marks on the shaft where it spins.
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I'm concerned about that also, but I try it and if it does, I'll change the wheels to the rollerblade ones that are clear and have glitter and sparkles in them:D
Dave
 
If you can make your steady rest move left and right a single bearing with or without a collet in it, lined with pool felt is much less likely to damage the cues than having rollers touching the finish. The advantage to the rollers is you do not have to make the steady rest able to move left and right, so even though it is not as good of a set up it is easier to set up. It is also cheaper than a couple of feet of dovetail bed and a single bearing steady rest which would cost around $150.
 
Received this item yesterday! I was less than impressed. It wasn't exactaly what I had in mind but it has inspired me to make my own. Oh yea it left black marks on the wood too!!

Also, I took everyone advise (posting 3 months ago) and purchased a steady rest for my metal lathe. It was a pain in the ass. Had to get it from manufacture in china. Anyways, Mr Olsenview sp?? sent me a 37 or 35mm bearing to put in center. I am getting it lined out?

What do you metal lathe guys think about the 60 center peice that Joe Barringer uses inside his spindals for dead nuttts accuracy?????
 
bubsbug said:
What do you metal lathe guys think about the 60 center peice that Joe Barringer uses inside his spindals for dead nuttts accuracy?????
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I'm not sure what you're asking. It is extremely common to use a 60 degree center in the headstock spindle (often a "dead center" which is single piece of steel) and one in the tailstock (often a "live center", or one that rotates on bearings), this is "turning between centers". It is a very accurate way to locate a shaft in a lathe, better than putting it in a chuck. They come in various grades qualities (read cost) but even the cheapest dead center ($8) will have less runout that you could measure. A cheap live center ($35?) may be something else, I'd get a reasonable one ($75+) (wood dust can't be easy on one if it snuck into the bearings).

Dave, whos home built lathe could ONLY turn between centers for about a year ... now it has a chuck and a face-plate ... WOO HOO ... but still turns a lot of stuff between centers or on a mandrel between centers
 
DaveK said:
I'm not sure what you're asking. It is extremely common to use a 60 degree center in the headstock spindle (often a "dead center" which is single piece of steel) and one in the tailstock (often a "live center", or one that rotates on bearings), this is "turning between centers". It is a very accurate way to locate a shaft in a lathe, better than putting it in a chuck. They come in various grades qualities (read cost) but even the cheapest dead center ($8) will have less runout that you could measure. A cheap live center ($35?) may be something else, I'd get a reasonable one ($75+) (wood dust can't be easy on one if it snuck into the bearings).

Dave, whos home built lathe could ONLY turn between centers for about a year ... now it has a chuck and a face-plate ... WOO HOO ... but still turns a lot of stuff between centers or on a mandrel between centers
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yep, I'm not as much as a metal guy as you;) :p , but I do turn shafts with a 60 dead center on the head, and a 60 live in the tail:D No spur or nothing. The key is in the tailstock pressure applied, but It's worked the best for me over any other I have tried.. In fact it may even help with chatter a bit. It's the only way to fly for me. Most of My handles are turned in the same way.:)
 
Clarification, What I was getting at was this: I am under the impression that metal lathe people use their steady rest out in front of head stock to work on short peices, handles, fronts, ect.

Joe made a long 60 degree center out of delrin that mounts to his outboard chuck, it then stops somewhere within his spindal, meaning inside it, Then his actually work gets center drilled and mounts to this and then another center peice into his tailstock. I was just wondering how people liked this idea!

This has to be a litle different as opposed to putting one in you main chuck and tailstock, doesn't ot???
 
center rest

The bearing I sent you has a 35 mm center hole and a 72 mm OD. You make collets for it out of delrin, nylon, or teflon with a 35 mm OD to push into the bearing center hole and only the ID of the collet then is what touches the cue. Make a set of collets, all with 35 mm OD with varying ID to allow you to snugly slide onto the cue at various points along it. You will need the butt end, joint ends of the shaft and the butt, the A-arm joint at both sides of the joint, and various others because you need some for a finished cue as well as a rough cue. When rough cutting parts of a butt, cut the butt wood to 35 mm OD and just slide the raw wood right into the bearing, no collet needed.You can make a collet out of scrap wood with 35mm OD, and little larger ID than a shaft to allow for the thickness of the felt and then glue some pool table felt into the center with contact cement, delrin works too, but does not hold the glued felt like a wood collet! That makes the lined bearing that Chris alluded to. I have a second center rest with a smaller bearing that I lined with the felt and need no collet. Maybe fix that old center rest you have to do that? I use two center rests because it takes time to get the bearing centered perfectly in the rest, I used a co-axial indicator to set mine up. I lock in the settings when I have it running perfect, and never change it. That is why with two different size bearings I use two center rests. I use both center rests when I am working on a full length cue or sanding the joint of a two pc cue while they are joined to get a perfect joint match without carbide mandrels. I can shoot a picture for you if you want to see it used.
 
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bubsbug said:
Received this item yesterday! I was less than impressed. It wasn't exactaly what I had in mind but it has inspired me to make my own. Oh yea it left black marks on the wood too!!
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I have the same opionon, $60 item that is useless! I just ordered some stock to make my own also. So much for an item 'made for cue repair, etc':mad:
Dave
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