Have you tested this, or is it an impression? I can suggest a simple test method that removes "observation bias".
pj <- doubt it
chgo
I'm interested
Have you tested this, or is it an impression? I can suggest a simple test method that removes "observation bias".
pj <- doubt it
chgo
Do snooker players use layered tips??
I have a snooker-sized tip on my pool cue (<10mm), and I've always used layered tips on it. These days I use Ultraskin hard layered tips. Great combo.pt109:Colin:Island Drive:
Do snooker players use layered tips??
I haven't heard of any of the snooker pros using them... perhaps some do, but I have tried them for snooker and English pool and I'm not a great fan.
I have a Sniper on my snooker cue....made from a half used pool tip. Best snooker tip I ever had.
Some snooker players are using Kamui.
Interesting about the different reactions of smaller balls. They also would squirt more with the fatter pool tips.Colin:
Nearly all laminated tips play toward the hard end of the scale, and with smaller cue balls, not as much hardness is required I believe.
And miscues with the smaller balls tend to be a bigger problem, so hard layered tips, which I don't feel hold the chalk as well, lead to more miscues with the smaller balls especially.
PJ,I have a snooker-sized tip on my pool cue (<10mm), and I've always used layered tips on it. These days I use Ultraskin hard layered tips. Great combo.
Interesting about the different reactions of smaller balls. They also would squirt more with the fatter pool tips.
I've never noticed greater miscues with harder tips, but it's been a long while since I used anything else...
pj
chgo
Here you go, Mr. President. This is from an old post of mine about testing the difference between shafts, but it works for tips too.pt109:Me:
Have you tested this ["layered tips grab too much"], or is it an impression? I can suggest a simple test method that removes "observation bias".
I'm interested
> Place a numbered Centennial ball (your "cue ball") on the foot or head spot with the number upright, centered and facing you, and with the little triangles at the equator, aligned straight across the table (pointed at the second diamond on the side rail).
> Shoot this "cue ball" directly at the second diamond on the far side rail (so it would bounce straight back at the spot if you hit it without side spin). Position two balls on either side of the diamond as "blockers" to ensure the cue ball hits the rail at the diamond (touching either blocker ball invalidates the shot). To get the spacing right, freeze a third ball between the two blockers, move the blockers apart to create a 1/4" gap on each side of the middle ball, then remove the middle ball.
> Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator) with just enough speed to bounce off the far side rail and barely reach the near side rail. Wipe the ball clean before each shot and check the chalkmark after each shot to see where you're actually hitting the ball. Be sure the tip is well groomed and well chalked for each test shot.
> Mark where the ball stops at the near rail (put a coin or a piece of chalk there).
> Only count shots that you hit just right. If any of the following things doesn't happen, don't count the shot:
- You don't hit the "cue ball" exactly on the edge of the circle at the triangle (equator).
- You don't hit the second diamond on the far side rail exactly.
- The ball stops more than an inch short or long of the near side rail.
Have you tested this, or is it an impression? I can suggest a simple test method that removes "observation bias".
pj <- doubt it
chgo
I mean width (more wood = greater end mass; smaller balls = less opposing mass). I should have said "shaft" rather than "tip".When you say fat tips influencing squirt, do you mean width or depth...
If you have time and interest, the simple test I posted above can prove or disprove it objectively without special equipment.I'm capable of playing at a higher level and can see clearly what is happening.Me:Gene:
The layered tips just grab too much.
Have you tested this, or is it an impression? I can suggest a simple test method that removes "observation bias".
I'm capable of playing at a higher level and can see clearly what is happening.
The latest player I switched to the Ki teck, Mike McCune has seen a big rise in his game as well.
That makes it 7 in a row. non of these players can hardly believe the difference.
It's huge.
No more accidental overspingate..........
Here's a thought, and Rempe made me realize this. If you were ever around him in his latter years of his playing career, he had a zipper soft case, that would open up totally and lay flat....to access shafts/butt etc. What did catch my eye was ''how many different shafts'' he had in his case, he might of had 8-10. What I came to realize is this. Different playing conditions required different cue tips. Getting too much or not enough on the cue ball and getting the feel of the cue balls release of spin is critical in high end play. To surmise, there is no perfect tip for all conditions, conditions change all the time.
I guess I am happy I don't need to worry about tips that much, its one advantage to not being that good. The only difference I notice between leather, Kamui hard and soft, and my Tiger is the feel or hardness of the tip and the feedback I get through the cue. When I had a shaft made a couple months ago I did not even bother to specify a tip, I just let them install whatever is the norm for them on that particular shaft and it plays fine for me.
And the God of Pool, Efren, uses a cheap assed Elk Master. End of discussion.
I agree mostly, but the milkduds available from Pooldawg8 are the best tip I've ever used.
That could be because the pressing of the tips makes them more uniform, but who knows I'm just guessing :thumbup:
It isn't a "cheap assed Elk Master". He uses a "milk dud" of his own recipe. I got the recipe years ago from someone that made a cue for Efren. Still use it to this day. Makes one hell of a milk dud
Many players have beat him using other tips. "X pro player does Y, so that must be the best way" is never a conclusive argument. Usually it's not even a good one.And the God of Pool, Efren, uses a cheap assed Elk Master. End of discussion.
That's correct, Jim Odom, here in Ft. Worth put a "Milk Dud" on my cue three days ago and I already won two local tournaments and $800 in a "break and run contest" with it.
I have had some that he replaced, however, I have Milk Duds on all my cues now. I wore the last one down to the ferrule before replacing it.
Chris Renfro also has some great tips, although they are a variation of the standard "Milk Dud" (he uses some high-tech milk)
PJ,
I've used a medium talisman for a few years for English pool and snooker... but gone back to Blue Diamond and Elkmaster single layered tips. I've used a couple of cues, 9mm and 10mm, mainly used the 10mm in snooker, with 2&1/16" balls and 9mm for 1&7/8th" English Pool CB, though maybe it's 1&15/16ths... has been changes of late.
Especially in English pool, I made a lot more miscues than I had previously, when using the talisman tips, but maybe that was part of converting from US pool back to English pool.... but, preferring the single layered tips now...once they've compacted a bit... perhaps a softer layered tip like Kamui would work well.
When you say fat tips influencing squirt, do you mean width or depth. From what I have researches, leather has a lower density than the combination of wood + brass ferule, so a greater depth tip should have a lower tip end mass...though, hard to get good figures and perhaps these glued compressed layered tips may increase tip end mass.
Just guessing and sharing some observations and experiences.
Colin
P.S. When I say prefer, I generally mean my confidence in hitting extremes in english, particularly draw, without miscueing.