Thanks for all the help and advice guys.
To be honest, I can't recall where I learned or who taught me how to take care of shafts.
Here is my simple logic, I'm not sure if it's correct:
-Wax breaks down and actually causes a sticky shaft...especially in a warm and humid pool room.
-I use a cleaner (such as Fantastic) to remove chalk. While more cleaner seems to work better than less, I immediately wipe it dry. I then let the shaft sit for a few hours before burnishing it. My logic is moisture is an enemy of wood in terms of warping so I don't want to burnish / seal in any moisture.
--When I burnish the shaft with a piece of leather, I don't go overboard creating heat. It seems like heat would also be a catalyst for warping.
-Lastly, I'm a big fan for friction fit cases such as a Ron Thomas case. I believe they do a better job of sealing out environmental moisture.
Anyway, I've had good luck with this methodology. Most of my shafts are from the 60s and 70s and they are all dead straight, clean, and feel great (and my hands sweat a lot when I play).
Obviously none of my shafts are spliced so I can't comment on those. I do have a cheap production cue though...It's probably 15 years old and that shaft is clean and dead straight too.
To be honest, I can't recall where I learned or who taught me how to take care of shafts.
Here is my simple logic, I'm not sure if it's correct:
-Wax breaks down and actually causes a sticky shaft...especially in a warm and humid pool room.
-I use a cleaner (such as Fantastic) to remove chalk. While more cleaner seems to work better than less, I immediately wipe it dry. I then let the shaft sit for a few hours before burnishing it. My logic is moisture is an enemy of wood in terms of warping so I don't want to burnish / seal in any moisture.
--When I burnish the shaft with a piece of leather, I don't go overboard creating heat. It seems like heat would also be a catalyst for warping.
-Lastly, I'm a big fan for friction fit cases such as a Ron Thomas case. I believe they do a better job of sealing out environmental moisture.
Anyway, I've had good luck with this methodology. Most of my shafts are from the 60s and 70s and they are all dead straight, clean, and feel great (and my hands sweat a lot when I play).
Obviously none of my shafts are spliced so I can't comment on those. I do have a cheap production cue though...It's probably 15 years old and that shaft is clean and dead straight too.