Signing Cues
- Thread starter stevel
- Start date
I agree.
Let me speak as a cue owner.
It should be clear. It should be consistent. It should include a date, or at least a year.
Generally I feel it should be small. I don't mind the signature anywhere myself...but I do actually like them signed.
I think some forethought into the durability of such markings is nice. I hate it when refinishing or repairs interfere with identifying marks.
.
Steve however you do it is the correct way, to my knowledge there is no set standard. But even if there is the way I see it, it's my cue and I will sign it the way I want to.
The only thing that I try to do is make my signature as small as possible, so that it can be clearly read. The reason this is important to me is because I do not want my Chicken Scratching to detract from the cues design:smile:, and because some customers prefer a small signature.
Take care Steve
The only sig that can't be removed quite easily, is the style, and quality you put into the cue. Personally, i don't like signing on the wood, it detracts from the cue in most cases. Seems most of us have doctors handwriting, lol. I like engraved buttcaps, or signing under the bumper.
I too feel it should be small and regular, in harmony with the cue's design elements. Date of production could be added below the bumper.
invisible signature
my signature is like many it looks like crap, and i do not want it to distract from the wood. i sign and are each cue under the finish with ink that can only be seen under untraviolet light [ old hippys light ] if the cue ever gets missplaced only the owner will know how to show the signature.
my signature is like many it looks like crap, and i do not want it to distract from the wood. i sign and are each cue under the finish with ink that can only be seen under untraviolet light [ old hippys light ] if the cue ever gets missplaced only the owner will know how to show the signature.
In my opinion it looks best if you start at the joint and and end towards the wrap.
I use a freshly sharpened pencil and usually sign my name, month and year on the black butt cap or if it is white, I sign in the most inconspicuous, dark part of the cue. The pencil marks will show, even when signed on black, so that the cue can be easily identified but signature is not glaring at you and must be looked for
Dick.
Dick.
What a great tip!
Dick- Wow! This is a GREAT tip. Very inconspicuous, yet easy to read. Thank you.
Robin
Dick- Wow! This is a GREAT tip. Very inconspicuous, yet easy to read. Thank you.
Robin
When finishing a cue I first seal the cue, I then put on as many coats of UV so as to fill all of the grain of the wood and phenolic. I sand between coats of UV and after the last coat to insure the cue is rough enough for the final finish to adhere to with 220 grit. I then wipe the cue down real good with wax wash or acetone to remove all impurities. Now the cue is ready for the auto urethane so I sign at this time. Every thing turns out perfectly as long as you don't smear the graphite with your hand before spraying your first coat.
The flash made these sigs. stand out much more than they do under normal lighting but you can see that they are discernible against both Gabon ebony and East Indian. They do the same against black phenolic.
Dick