Simple situation and you must not dog it. How do you usually play it?

If you absolutely must not dog it, how do you hit this?

  • A - Two rails with inside

    Votes: 77 40.5%
  • B - One rail, top/inside

    Votes: 15 7.9%
  • C - One rail, center/a lil top/a lil inside etc.

    Votes: 35 18.4%
  • D - Two rails with low right

    Votes: 52 27.4%
  • E - One rail, a little draw/stun center/a lil right etc.

    Votes: 7 3.7%
  • F - One rail, right/draw

    Votes: 4 2.1%

  • Total voters
    190

CreeDo

Fargo Rating 597
Silver Member
I know this is so dead easy that every C player on earth should be out from here.
Say you're playing on a 10 footer, totally unfamiliar with the cloth, you're nervous, shaking hands,
it's for ALL THE MARBLES, etc. etc.

How do you cinch this ball to guarantee you get straight in on the 8,
and can't possibly miss or get bad shape?

Do you play for the near side pocket or the far one? One rail or two rails?
Do you put any english to help 'dogproof' it? Dead center rolling ball?
A little outside to cancel throw? A little draw to prevent skid?

Do you strongly feel one way is right, or that some ways are definitely wrong?
Like inside english is risky? Forget 1 rail with B or F because you might get stuck on the long rail?

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Oh yeah... does anyone play shape for the corners instead, on a big table?
 
I voted A, but after taking a peak at it the angle is a little more than I initially thought, so it's def C(with a touch of right to keep it off the rail)

But for the most part if it's just a little less angle, it's always A, and I think that's what you were asking.
 
I'd play route A because the CB is rolling in the direction of the shot on the 8 rather than through the zone. It also seems like an overshoot/undershoot has more pockets via A than the others.
 
I take option A...'cause you're coming off the rail towards the 8-ball instead
of crossing it...it requires less exactness on the weight.

I will take option D for the same reason if the cue-ball is old and light....
...'cause that's what it wants to do.
 
I feel A or D are the "correct" ways to go. You are coming in on the correct angle much more so than going across the line you want to be on. Speed control is much easier, it gives you a bigger margin of error on speed. For me, I prefer D.
 
Haha I didn't even see the 2nd diagram.

As laying it's never A. Just make it and the balls gonna naturally land about on C.

D is reasonable.
 
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I chose "E" since it allows me to play the ball to the outside of the pocket and use the least spin possible.
 
I prefer route D. Hitting that extra rail always helps me to control the speed of the shot. Additionally, Stan Shuffet teaches to shoot my shot in this situation as well. The reason is because throwing the ball into the pocket in this way decreases the likelihood of a skid.
 
D

D is looking good with the angle into the rail. I shot a lot of draw shotsand on this one rge ball should pocket nicely with it.
 
I said F because I suck. Guess I'm learning something today (not that I suck... I'm reminded of that everyday.)
 
Me personally , I don't like the A route
I'm hitting that ball smooth and not trying to spin the ball
A good smooth stroke and overcut the ball a little
But that's just my preference, on a different day I may play it different
Depends on how I feel
 
Oh yeah... does anyone play shape for the corners instead, on a big table?

I wouldn't from where the 8 ball is laying now, but if it was sitting in a place where it would enter the side at a steep angle (like 2 inches closer to the spot), I would rather play for a corner pocket on the game ball.
 
I'll explain in detail my reasoning, so it might get a little long...

First thing I look at is the natural tangent line off the ob. Where does that want to put me with a stun shot? In this case, it's close to "E". Then, I look at the line from the center of the pocket straight through the ob to the rail behind the ob. I don't want to cross that line.

If I just use a stun shot, I am coming across the line of the ob/pocket. So, I take a quick look at what that actually means. What if I go a little short of that line, or a little long from that line? One can quickly see that going long even 3 ball widths makes a big difference in the shot, whereas coming short 3 ball widths is really no big deal.

So, now I know that I definitely do not want to go past the ob/pocket line. I can quickly get in trouble if I do. I want to make sure I stay short of that line.

Since the tangent line is E, and I already determined that is very distance sensitive, how can I change it so it is not so distance (speed) sensitive? If I add a little draw, or even a touch of outside english with draw, I will come back to the side rail, and rebound off that rail close to parallel to the ob/pocket line. Coming in parallel to that line, speed is not so critical. I have at least 10 more inches to play with, and still end up with basically the same shot. I mainly have to watch my speed to not get stuck frozen or very close to the side rail, and not to rebound off it too far that I now have to shoot the 8 in the corner.

If I choose the A route, it is not a natural route. I will have to use inside to get my two rails to control the speed. Also, no real problem here, just that you are going against what the cb naturally wants to do. I have found it more consistent to go the more natural routes whenever I have a choice to do so.
 
I'd shoot the 8 first cause the 3 is a much better break shot for the next rack. :)

Sorry, just kidding, couldn't help it. I choose "A" Hitting it with low outside, I feel like I can under or over hit it many more times than with follow inside.
 
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I chose C. Just a half tip of high english. The most simple route.
A) I can't miss the OB with that shot (least amount of risk)
B) I can't NOT get shape for the side
C) No risk of a scratch

If it wasn't for many marbles at all, then I'd play around with it more.
 
as always told

go for what you skill level allows you to do best, getting bad is one thing, missing the ball is another.

if you are nervous then just pocket the ball because there are 3 pockets waiting for you and 4 if you freak out. there is no (not counting total miss stroke i.e. dogging it) chance of going towards the 8 and landing on top of it.

pocketing the ball covers a lot of area and opens up a HUGE ZONE.

a) hit it to soft and you have the left corner or cut in the left side
b) hit to hard and you have the bottom corner or cut in the side
c) end up with draw or right and you have cut in top right or side
d) hit it 50/50 and shot it right in the side as intended.

shooting A or D and dogging that could cost you the game by over hitting and landing on the ball, under hitting and landing on the rail, leaving shots that a C player like you mentioned will most likely talk him/her self out of before the ball even stops rolling.

when in doubt "or nerves" shot what you know. (everyone seems to be shooting there skill level and not what the OP is asking, totally neglecting "shot what the table gives you"

JMO however.
 
I think the "right" shot is D. A lot of draw, a little bit of outside.

Under pressure, ain't no way I'm choosing A. The last thing I want on a pressure-packed shot is to spin the ball with a lot of inside.

Honestly, in a match with my hands shaking, I probably play C and cinch the 3 ball. I'm confident I'll get good enough shape on the 8 to make it.
 
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