Sound Proof Room For Billiard Table

Q

Quesports

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am hoping to get some ideas on constructing a sound proof room for a pool table. The room is in the basement of a ranch with the master bedroom directly above the proposed table area. The celiling joists are engineered so my main concern is sound proofing the ceiling area.. The room will accomodate a 4 1/2 x 9 table with no obstructions. Ceiling is also fairly low so a dropped ceiling is not an option. Any help or suggestions???
Dan
 
I asked a contractor once about the best way to sound-proof walls, thinking there was some sort of insulation I could use that would do the trick. He told me that adjoining walls that share wall studs will transmit sound waves through the studs and the nails/screws used to attach the wallboard on either side, and that insulation in the wall cavities alone probably wouldn't do much. He said the most effective way to dampen sound between rooms was to actually build two walls with offset studs, using silicone caulk between all hard surfaces, and insulate each wall cavity, preferably with some sort of sound-deadening material. I haven't actually tried it, however, so I can't say for sure whether it works or not, and I'm also not sure how practical this approach would be for basement ceilings, which seem to never be quite high enough anyway.

Good luck,
Aaron
 
A good (lower cost) solution is to hang a double layer of rock hung from isolation clips. These clips decouple the rock from the wood framing (joists in your case) which helps eliminate sound transmission. To double layer the rock, use a product called "green glue" (google will show you the way). Stagger the seams. Inside the joists, use several inches of duct insulation (rigid fiberglass).

BTW, these are all techniques used by Home Theater enthusiasts. If it can reduce SPL's in that scenario, it will have a cakewalk with the clicking of the balls. The break might not go unnoticed though.

I'll dig up some references for you to look at.
 
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Nice post, this is what I was going to suggest except you provided a lot more detail. Using the clips rather than mounting directly to the joists is key.

mosconiac said:
A good (lower cost) solution is to hang a double layer of rock hung from isolation clips. These clips decouple the rock from the wood framing (joists in your case) which helps eliminate sound transmission. To double layer the rock, use a product called "green glue" (google will show you the way). Stagger the seams. Inside the joists, use several inches of duct insulation (rigid fiberglass).

BTW, these are all techniques used by Home Theater enthusiasts. If it can reduce SPL's in that scenario, it will have a cakewalk with the clicking of the balls. The break might not go unnoticed though.

I'll dig up some references for you to look at.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks!!!

My thanks to all the AZ members for input on this issue. Just one of the many reasons this website is as good as it gets for billiards info! I have googled some of the info already and as I think I had stated the ceiling cavity is going to be the big challenge. There is limited height so it looks like quietrock may be one consideration, I Have also seen that there is a special carpet pad that can be used under the regular pad in the master B room floor to also help sound infiltration.
Thanks Again, I have some homework to do!!
Dan
 
Quesports said:
I am hoping to get some ideas on constructing a sound proof room for a pool table.Dan
Click to expand...

Dan,

Before you go to far, have you ever stood in a "sound proofed" room. I have and it is not pleasant. I would consult an expert acoustics consultant before you go too far. A "quiet" room might be what you're really after. I have one for my home theatre and audio system. Spent thirty eight years selling the stuff.

Lyn
 
Lyn, Would you agree that the clips, green glue, staggered seams, & rigid FG is a good way to minimize sound transmittal without resorting to a dead sounding room?
 
One other thing...

that I have used and recommended in real estate that is in proximity to road noise, is to create your own 'white' noise.... i.e. pleasant background noise that covers up the offensive noise. For outside use, a waterfall is often helpful..... for inside there are interior sheet cascading waterfalls that may do the trick. Just make sure the motor noise or the sound of the water is not offensive to the sleeper upstairs.

td
 
One expensive alternative is called "Divorce". I have seen it in action and it takes care of your entire house, sometimes even forces you to move into another entire house.

Good Luck! :wink:
 
double rock it

You can pack inbetween the joists with insulation.If you hear squeeking or such when people walk above you will want to glue and skrew the sub floor decking upstairs.

Double sheetrock on the lid will help or you can go with a 1/4" wallboard and then a layer of rock.You can also blanket the cieling with a thin layer of foam wrap and then cover with sheetrock.

If you are hearing the footfalls of people walking above concentrate on the cieling downstairs.If you are hearing squeeking you may want to remove the old flooring,subflooring and glue and skrew a new sub-floor.
 
I own a drywall company and get requests to do this type of thing all the time. Everybody seems to have some good advice. Sound is like water, it looks for the easiest way out. If it was my room I would add one layer of Quietrock 525. The sheets should cost you about $75 per 4x8 sheet. Then you just install it over your existing drywall and tape and float and texture. They do make a more affordable panel at around $35 it is 1/2" and doesn't work as good as the 5/8" 525. If they don't have it your area let me know and I will help you find a similar material.

The green glue works okay. But the application is messy and your better off just going with the QR 525. I don't think you would be happy with the rc channel and regular drywall. Its too easy to make that system fail. All it takes is for you to hang a picture and hit a stud and then its useless.

We have done installations were we used some heavy vinyl on the walls. Its super heavy and doesn't do a good job based off of the price.
If money is no object then by all means build you a staggered stud wall around the perimeter. And then use Quietrock THX. Which is THX certified and the equivalent of putting up a 1 1/2 foot concrete wall. Those sheets are around $250 sheet and they are 1 3/8" thick and stupid heavy. Then you could use sound batt insulation in the cavity.

Hope this helps.
RBB

512 947 WALL
 
Thnx

cardiac kid said:
Dan,

Before you go to far, have you ever stood in a "sound proofed" room. I have and it is not pleasant. I would consult an expert acoustics consultant before you go too far. A "quiet" room might be what you're really after. I have one for my home theatre and audio system. Spent thirty eight years selling the stuff.

Lyn
Click to expand...

Hi Lyn, I have actually, I worked for Tom Coster out in California years ago. He was the keyboard player for Santana and he had a sound proofed studio recording room in his house that was really sweet. Platinum records on the wall and some great memorabilia to boot.. Actually worked for Joan Baez and her Mom at the same time. Anyway I understand what you mean, they have a strange encapsulated feel like being in a bubble sort of. I am mostly concerned with the sound going straight up through the ceiling and through the flooring into the MB room, that will be the biggest concern.
Dan

Thanks also to Big Tex aboves post, great info on the 525!! I may give you a call when I get closer to making my decision final...
 
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Funny you should ask ... :) I just finished soundproofing the ceiling in my basement pool table area. I also have a bedroom directly over it.

My results were realistically in the 80% better than before category. Here is what I did.

First insulate between the joists. Then (pretty expensive) staple 1/8th inch thick "mass loaded vinyl" across the rafters.

I then ripped 4x8x3/4 plywood into 3" strips x 8' long and screwed them across the MLV 16" on center. ( this provided a flat screwing surface for the Sheetrock)

I then installed 5/8 sheetrock over the entire ceiling. (I did look into the special soundproof sheetrock and thought it too expensive for me.)

The project was NO FUN, rent or borrow a sheetrock lift if you do it. Not only for putting the sheetrock on the ceiling, but even more so for putting up the Mass Load Vinyl.

I used a sheet of plywood that I secured to the sheetrock jack and draped the MLV over it to hoist it to the ceiling. The freaking stuff is HEAVY! It's like hanging elephant carcass to your ceiling. :( You won't be able to do it even with a friend without help from that lift.

You will also want an air staple gun to secure the MLV to the joists.

A second layer of MLV can also be rolled out on the bedroom floor under the carpet for added soundproofing. Be warned the stuff ain't cheap and if you don't find a local distributor, the shipping is crazy expensive!!
 
Exactly!

Aaron_S said:
I asked a contractor once about the best way to sound-proof walls, thinking there was some sort of insulation I could use that would do the trick. He told me that adjoining walls that share wall studs will transmit sound waves through the studs and the nails/screws used to attach the wallboard on either side, and that insulation in the wall cavities alone probably wouldn't do much. He said the most effective way to dampen sound between rooms was to actually build two walls with offset studs, using silicone caulk between all hard surfaces, and insulate each wall cavity, preferably with some sort of sound-deadening material. I haven't actually tried it, however, so I can't say for sure whether it works or not, and I'm also not sure how practical this approach would be for basement ceilings, which seem to never be quite high enough anyway.

Good luck,
Aaron
Click to expand...

I have had a music studio for a number of years and this is the best way to do soundproofing. You need two walls.
 
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