Stupid question on drawing the ball

av84fun said:
Re: "the tip to travel on its intended plane for a longer period of time."...if the drop occurs after CB contact/ then the length of the stroke facilitated by the dropping elbow has no effect on the shot whatsoever because, as you know, the ball is gone in a millisecond and could care less what the length of the stroke might be.
As you noted, after contact has no effect, so the relevant time is before. In this time frame, the elbow drop lengthens the distance the tip is on the intended plane, thus providing a margin of error (as compared to the true pendulum). That is, the pendulum stroke is highly dependent on brigde distance, as you have a very small "window of opportunity" to strike the cue ball. In contrast, the elbow drop extends the distance where the tip contacts the cue ball at its desired offset.

This is the primary reason for the elbow drop - and IMO is a direct result of our visual clues after contacting the cue ball. In particular, we want to see the tip go straight through the cue ball, and NOT go up or down, so we use a piston type stroke, or a hybrid pendulum/piston. But the elbow drop typically starts before contact, to ensure a nice level stroke. Some people also pump their arms to get the desired effect, but as noted on AZ numerous times, the more moving parts, the more can go wrong.

As a little experiment, try the elbow drop, you should be able extend the cue at least a foot or more (piston-style) without the tip raising at all. In fact, with the right application of elbow drop, you can follow through up to the joint without raising the tip.

I have more than a table-length draw stroke (absent spinning it off the rail) and don't believe that acquiring any greater length is worth the effort due to the infrequency of such power being usefull...
IMO, the real issue here is that as power increases, the appearance of any defects in fundamentals increases dramatically. Most people cannot physically execute a super power shot, not becuase they don't know how, but that their mechanics break down at warp speed. If you have excellent fundamentals - you can shoot the whammy draw as readily as a regular draw shot. THIS is one significant benefits of the pendulum stroke - a way to keep your fundamentals in peak form.

-td
 
Thanks for posying this on this topic ! This is also a problem that I'm having a s a newer player. I feel that I can easily draw the CB on slicker cloth but on my home table with slower cloth I'm having a very hard time to consistly draw the CB. Hopefully some of the above advice can help me out too.
 
The number one reason. Your grip hand tightens up, in turn so does your arm and shoulder. When that happens it elevates the butt of the cue. Guess what comes next? The tips drops and you hit to far below center. The cue ball goes flying.

If at the same time (which happens a lot) your stroke swerves to either side, then the cue ball squirts off to the side. Nothing worse that that nasty miscue sound.

Tight muscles are shorter and probably slower, relaxed muscles are longer. Stay relaxed, not only will you improve your draw stroke, it will improve every stroke.

Striking the c/b accurate is premium. You need to hit where you addressed the c/b to make the shot come off as planned. If your grip tightens up --- well you know the answer.

Rod
 
metallicane said:
How come I send the cue ball flying when I try to draw the ball sometimes, but others can draw the ball like it's nothing? I saw Sigel miscue once and send the cue ball flying which actually made me feel a little better, but getting the ball to draw on a long shot is tough for me to do. Thoughts?

This thread reminded me of having to play when there was no chalk available. Attempting shots like this you will jump the cue ball almost every time.

I'd say, start by making sure your tip is well chalked, especially around the edges. Also, if your cue has a really hard tip I think you will be more prone to jumping the cue ball. Roughen it with a tapper or scuffer to make sure it is holding chalk. Good luck on your draw shots.
 
I think Rod was on the right track.

I suffered from this problem and I am surprised no one mentioned the cause that I discovered.

The number one issue that was hurting me is that my whole body tensed up to the point that I lifted up my head and shoulders slightly at impact. Since my bridge didn't move, this dipped the tip of my cue down below the safe maximum. To be honest, I would forget about elbow drop *for now* and FIRST make sure that your body is perfectly still while you are stroking-from begining to maximum follow thorugh. If it is, my guess it that it won't matter if you do or don't drop your elbow as far as this problem is concerned. I personally DO drop my elbow, as I believe it promotes more accurate tip placement at varying length bridges. This is because with my stroke, my tip is pretty much the same distance from the cloth throughout the stroke. This means it really doesn't matter if I am stretching, cramped, on the rail, etc. My tip will be about the same height throughout the stroke. However, there are equally valid arguments to be made for "pinning" the elbow.

Just rememeber, whatever elbow "technique" you use is useless if your head or body are moving during the stroke. Check that first.

KMRUNOUT
 
KMRUNOUT said:
I think Rod was on the right track.

I suffered from this problem and I am surprised no one mentioned the cause that I discovered.

The number one issue that was hurting me is that my whole body tensed up to the point that I lifted up my head and shoulders slightly at impact. Since my bridge didn't move, this dipped the tip of my cue down below the safe maximum. To be honest, I would forget about elbow drop *for now* and FIRST make sure that your body is perfectly still while you are stroking-from begining to maximum follow thorugh. If it is, my guess it that it won't matter if you do or don't drop your elbow as far as this problem is concerned. I personally DO drop my elbow, as I believe it promotes more accurate tip placement at varying length bridges. This is because with my stroke, my tip is pretty much the same distance from the cloth throughout the stroke. This means it really doesn't matter if I am stretching, cramped, on the rail, etc. My tip will be about the same height throughout the stroke. However, there are equally valid arguments to be made for "pinning" the elbow.

Just rememeber, whatever elbow "technique" you use is useless if your head or body are moving during the stroke. Check that first.

KMRUNOUT


Yes, you are correct. I just didn't paint out the whole picture -- I'm lazy. Its obvious what happens, once that grip tightens up everything can go out of whack. Might be severe head movement or very slight but it has a dramatic effect.

First I blame the sequence starting with grip pressure then it travels up the arm shoulder and finally to the head. Its possible it could start at the shoulder but most times its the grip/arm tension that kicks it all off.

And yes, elbow drop isn't a factor because. if anything, the tip goes up instead of down. The OP should have some trained eyes watching or put it on film to see this happen.

Rod
 
This launching of the cue ball is a problem that I have, it's the most frustrating aspect of pool for me. For me what has been working lately on those crucial draw shots, is to focus on the cue ball at the moment of impact, and to make sure not hit it too low. Try that and see if it works for you.
 
KMRUNOUT said:
I think Rod was on the right track.

I suffered from this problem and I am surprised no one mentioned the cause that I discovered.

The number one issue that was hurting me is that my whole body tensed up to the point that I lifted up my head and shoulders slightly at impact. Since my bridge didn't move, this dipped the tip of my cue down below the safe maximum. To be honest, I would forget about elbow drop *for now* and FIRST make sure that your body is perfectly still while you are stroking-from begining to maximum follow thorugh. If it is, my guess it that it won't matter if you do or don't drop your elbow as far as this problem is concerned. I personally DO drop my elbow, as I believe it promotes more accurate tip placement at varying length bridges. This is because with my stroke, my tip is pretty much the same distance from the cloth throughout the stroke. This means it really doesn't matter if I am stretching, cramped, on the rail, etc. My tip will be about the same height throughout the stroke. However, there are equally valid arguments to be made for "pinning" the elbow.

Just rememeber, whatever elbow "technique" you use is useless if your head or body are moving during the stroke. Check that first.

KMRUNOUT
I thimk I mentioned this on 4/25
 
Miscues on hard draws shots frequently occur because the tip actually hits the table first and then glances up underneath the cue ball and sending it airborne.

Place a piece of paper on the table under your bridge hand so the edge of the paper meets where the cue ball rests on the table. Take some draw shots, if you jump one you will most likely see that your tip hit the paper well short of the cue ball.
 
fsarfino said:
Thanks for posying this on this topic ! This is also a problem that I'm having a s a newer player. I feel that I can easily draw the CB on slicker cloth but on my home table with slower cloth I'm having a very hard time to consistly draw the CB. Hopefully some of the above advice can help me out too.

That answers your question implicitly. Leveled stroke allows the cue ball to glide on the cloth (like having a slicker cloth) thus maintaining its spin longer.
 
draw miscues

Sporto said:
Miscues on hard draws shots frequently occur because the tip actually hits the table first and then glances up underneath the cue ball and sending it airborne.

Place a piece of paper on the table under your bridge hand so the edge of the paper meets where the cue ball rests on the table. Take some draw shots, if you jump one you will most likely see that your tip hit the paper well short of the cue ball.
I think it is the other way around: a miscue causes the cue tip to hit the table. Hitting the table first would also cause a miscue, but I don't think this is very common (with a decent player anyway). See my July '06 article for more info.

Regards,
Dave
 
I used to have the same problem on the draw stroke. Now I can do table length draws fairly consistently (after I have warmed-up of course).

1) level cue
2) loose grip/muscles etc.
3) eye movement (eye should be on object ball on last stroke)
not sure if that's the correct way but it worked for me.
4) follow through atleast 3 inches
5) stay down
 
This launching of the cue ball is a problem that I have, it's the most frustrating aspect of pool for me.

This frustration is a big reason that learning players don't get as much draw as they want - they're "gun shy" about scooping the CB, so their subconscious "steers" their stroke so they hit the CB higher to avoid it.

pj
chgo
 
metallicane said:
How come I send the cue ball flying when I try to draw the ball sometimes, but others can draw the ball like it's nothing? I saw Sigel miscue once and send the cue ball flying which actually made me feel a little better, but getting the ball to draw on a long shot is tough for me to do. Thoughts?

I have some advice that may or may not help. I shoot with a 60" cue (standard is 58") When I am at a place where I don't have my cue handy like a bar or someone else's house I have the same issue.

If you think of your arm as a pendulum your tip theoretically lowers into the cloth towards the end of you stroke. So when I use a shorter cue it effects my tip position when I try draw shots. And I constantly fly the CB into the air. Also I good tip like Sniper helps against this too.

So my advice choke up your bridge hand; or better yet try a different grip on the butt (remember like your holding a delicate bird that you don't want to crush)

TJ
 
metallicane said:
How come I send the cue ball flying when I try to draw the ball sometimes, but others can draw the ball like it's nothing? I saw Sigel miscue once and send the cue ball flying which actually made me feel a little better, but getting the ball to draw on a long shot is tough for me to do. Thoughts?
When you miscue, do you ever look at your tip afterwards? What do you see?
 
td873 said:
That is, the pendulum stroke is highly dependent on brigde distance, as you have a very small "window of opportunity" to strike the cue ball. If you are in the proper set position before you begin a true pendilum stroke, the tip is going to return to the exact same spot just as you are contacting the cue ball. I use a pendilum stroke exclusively, regardless of bridge distance In contrast, the elbow drop extends the distance where the tip contacts the cue ball at its desired offset. How much distance do you need? How far does the tip travel while it is in contact with the cue ball?

But the elbow drop typically starts before contact, to ensure a nice level stroke. Some people also pump their arms to get the desired effect, but as noted on AZ numerous times, the more moving parts, the more can go wrong. If the more moving parts, the more can go wrong is true, then why do you want to introduce elbow movement, and therefore shoulder and upper arm movement into your stroke? And I think most players would agree that dropping the elbow prior to contact takes away much of your consistancy.

As a little experiment, try the elbow drop, you should be able extend the cue at least a foot or more (piston-style) without the tip raising at all. What is to be gained? After the tip and cue ball have separated, why do you need another foot of the cue remaining level. All the work is already done by then. In fact, with the right application of elbow drop, you can follow through up to the joint without raising the tip. too many moving parts for me.


IMO, the real issue here is that as power increases, the appearance of any defects in fundamentals increases dramatically. Most people cannot physically execute a super power shot, not becuase they don't know how, but that their mechanics break down at warp speed. If you have excellent fundamentals - you can shoot the whammy draw as readily as a regular draw shot. THIS is one significant benefits of the pendulum stroke - a way to keep your fundamentals in peak form.I totally agree with this statement...which is why I don't understand your thoughts on dropping the elbow before contact.


-td
A properly executed pendilum stroke is the easiest way to provide consistent stroke...the key words being "properly executed"
Steve
 
pooltchr said:
A properly executed pendilum stroke is the easiest way to provide consistent stroke...the key words being "properly executed"
Steve
The pendulum stroke does not work for everyone.


me said:
In contrast, the elbow drop extends the distance where the tip contacts the cue ball at its desired offset.
How much distance do you need? How far does the tip travel while it is in contact with the cue ball?
You misunderstand my statement. This refers to the distance the tip travels before contact - i.e., in a straight line. The pendulum does not do this - you only have a small window when the tip is at the desired offset. If your bridge is too close, you mis-hit the ball. If your bridge is too far, you miscue. Even small variations can have disastrous results. The pendulum, for all its benefits, is not immune from defects in design or application.

me said:
But the elbow drop typically starts before contact, to ensure a nice level stroke. Some people also pump their arms to get the desired effect, but as noted on AZ numerous times, the more moving parts, the more can go wrong. If the more moving parts, the more can go wrong is true, then why do you want to introduce elbow movement, and therefore shoulder and upper arm movement into your stroke? And I think most players would agree that dropping the elbow prior to contact takes away much of your consistancy.
I do not recall stating or advocate introducing additional movement. Quite the contrary. The reality is that such movement exists. I was explaining the reasons. MANY people play just fine with all kinds of strokes. I don't believe that ignoring the fact that it happens makes it go away...

me said:
As a little experiment, try the elbow drop, you should be able extend the cue at least a foot or more (piston-style) without the tip raising at all. What is to be gained? After the tip and cue ball have separated, why do you need another foot of the cue remaining level. All the work is already done by then. In fact, with the right application of elbow drop, you can follow through up to the joint without raising the tip. too many moving parts for me.
Again, you don't understand what I am saying, and take my statement out of context. My response was directed to the comment about the tip raising after contact due to elbow drop. First: my comment illustrated this was not accruate. Second: I am illustrating what the piston at its extreme can do - and why people use it. Also, I did not implicate or even refer to amount of time the tip is in contact with the cue ball. I'm not sure why you are stuck on this point. To answer your question (again taken out of context): what is gained is the knowledge that the piston does not cause the tip to raise after contact.

The pendulum stroke is not the be all, end all of stroking - and neither is the piston, or the hybrid pendulum/piston. All have benefits and issues. But experimenting can shed light on WHY you do something. I don't believe anyone should take the pendulum as the gospel, without experimenting on their own. If they like the pendulum, good. If not, good. But I don't advocate blindly following along simply because something may be better (or not) and somebody said so. I let the student decide what works for them. Even if I believed the pendulum was better for a particular student, I would not force feed it to them. Rather, I would let them educate themselves that it was better for them.
me said:
IMO, the real issue here is that as power increases, the appearance of any defects in fundamentals increases dramatically. Most people cannot physically execute a super power shot, not becuase they don't know how, but that their mechanics break down at warp speed. If you have excellent fundamentals - you can shoot the whammy draw as readily as a regular draw shot. THIS is one significant benefits of the pendulum stroke - a way to keep your fundamentals in peak form. I totally agree with this statement...which is why I don't understand your thoughts on dropping the elbow before contact.
Again, you missed the point. I believe a good instructor can explain all aspects of different styles of play, and not simply ignore the "other" side of the argument. I do not see why describing the piston stroke is in any way contradictory to the benefits of a true pendulum. It seems that you are good at pointing out why the pendulum is "better", and why everything else is bad. But without knowledge and understanding regarding the merits of contrary methods, a teacher cannot convey - AND a student can't make - a proper assessment of what is the best for them. And isn't that the goal - to make the player better. It almost seems like you are taking the position that it is more important to preach the pendulum than to better the student.

Again, as I stated above, the pendulum doesn't work for everyone.

In sum, I find it odd that you would misconstrue my entire post as a simple academic exercise to show why the pendulum is better. When in fact, there is no evidence of its APPLICATION being any better. That is, check the list of world champion players to ever live, in any cue sport, and compare how many actually use the true pendulum vs. anything else. I would guestimate that maybe 1% (if even 1%) of the last 10 years of U.S. Open winners, Derby City winners, SBE winners, 14.1 championship winners, World Cup players, Mosconi cup players, international 3-Cushion winners, and various international 9 and 10-ball tournament winners, used the true pendulum stroke. I would also venture to say that none of the Hall-of-Fame members used the true pendulum. And I would guess that only a very few of the most recent BCA amateur and APA amateur winners did.

The truth is that pool is a dynamic exercise in application - with changing variables on any given day. Some people need the pendulum to have a consistent baseline in order to play. Others need to create a margin of error during their play. Thus, the piston stroke (aka dropping of the elbow) provides a way to normalize their playing for different conditions. Lastly, I do believe the pendulum is better as a training aid for beginning and amateur players, but, at a certain level of play, other options need to be presented. And, in real world application, the ridigity of the pendulum (more often than not) appears to be abandoned in favor of the margin of error provided by a piston/hybrid stroke.

-td
 
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