Super-glue Finishes

Brickman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
HEY GUYS....I am having a problem with a superglue finish that I have been trying. I was wondering if maybe some of you with more exp. could help out?

1. When I put it on it isnt very smooth at all, and has ridges like mini little mountain ranges in it....how do I fix this.....I know sanding.....so how to put on to prevent this is more like what I want to know?

2. After I put it on and start to sand , or into sanding, it gets huge white splotches in it, and will not buff out......almost like white dust or plastic dust caught in it.....even though I know it doesnt have the dust in it, I still cant get it right. I can get maybe 80-90% of the cue to shine very good and then there are the white splothces.....please help me before I beat my brains out with a hammer.:D


ANY OTHER ADVICE ON SUPERGLUE/ EPOXY RUB ON FINISHES WOULD BE GREAT, AND i WOULD BE VERY VERY GRATEFULL FOR THE HELP.......I know many of you do these and other types of finishes in your sleep so to speak so your exp , would be very much appreciated as I am really being held up by this, and I have a couple of cues that need more than an rubbed finsh to get done.......please help me........any advice is appreciated. :)
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
Brickman said:
HEY GUYS....I am having a problem with a superglue finish that I have been trying. I was wondering if maybe some of you with more exp. could help out?

1. When I put it on it isnt very smooth at all, and has ridges like mini little mountain ranges in it....how do I fix this.....I know sanding.....so how to put on to prevent this is more like what I want to know?

2. After I put it on and start to sand , or into sanding, it gets huge white splotches in it, and will not buff out......almost like white dust or plastic dust caught in it.....even though I know it doesnt have the dust in it, I still cant get it right. I can get maybe 80-90% of the cue to shine very good and then there are the white splothces.....please help me before I beat my brains out with a hammer.:D

Enjoy
ANY OTHER ADVICE ON SUPER GLUE/ EPOXY RUB ON FINISHES WOULD BE GREAT, AND i WOULD BE VERY VERY GRATEFULL FOR THE HELP.......I know many of you do these and other types of finishes in your sleep so to speak so your exp , would be very much appreciated as I am really being held up by this, and I have a couple of cues that need more than an rubbed finsh to get done.......please help me........any advice is appreciated. :)


Hello dude, this is what I use for Super Glue, the same company makes a non-whiting accelerator to harden the super glue immediately. The white areas are bubbles in the Super Glue, by following the instructions on the Accelerator this will no longer be a problem.

To smooth out the glue, first apply thin coats, with the lathe spinning at a slow speed. As you apply the Super Glue run a paper towel along the bottom of the cue to smooth out the surface.

By the way when buying Super Glue for finishes always buy thick!!!!! Below are some photo's of the Brand you should buy, along with the accelerator.

glue.jpg

Enjoy
 
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Brickman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
manwon said:
Hello dude, this is what I use for Super Glue, the same company makes a non-whiting accelerator to harden the super glue immediately. The white areas are bubbles in the Super Glue, by following the instructions on the Accelerator this will no longer be a problem.

To smooth out the glue, first apply thin coats, with the lathe spinning at a slow speed. As you apply the Super Glue run a paper towel along the bottom of the cue to smooth out the surface.

By the way when buying Super Glue for finishes always buy thick!!!!! Below are some photo's of the Brand you should buy, along with the accelerator.

View attachment 39210

Enjoy


THANKS CRAIG....I appreciate the help. :)
 

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Try Using the paper towel Like mentioned above. That alone may make some difference if your not using one already, whether you flash it or not, but using a good ca & accelerator will help alot also if that's the kind of finish Your doing. It allows you to build cotes up faster also. Don't over rub the ca on for too long in one place, You only have so long, so better to keep moving with a thin, smooth, even cote keeping the paper dowel somewhat moist with ca.

Greg
 

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
manwon said:
Hello dude, this is what I use for Super Glue, the same company makes a non-whiting accelerator to harden the super glue immediately. The white areas are bubbles in the Super Glue, by following the instructions on the Accelerator this will no longer be a problem.

To smooth out the glue, first apply thin coats, with the lathe spinning at a slow speed. As you apply the Super Glue run a paper towel along the bottom of the cue to smooth out the surface.

By the way when buying Super Glue for finishes always buy thick!!!!! Below are some photo's of the Brand you should buy, along with the accelerator.

View attachment 39210

Enjoy
what advantage does the thicker formula have over the thin???
i've only used the thin ca myself on a few cues
i'm still not convinced about the durability of ca finish
i don't mean to start a big discussion about that, everybody has thier own ideas about it and have stated it on az many times.
but in scotty's case, he cannot spray cues for several reasons, so, he's forced to use it
scotty & i talked on phone earlier tonight
after talking for awhile i finally figured out he was using gel formula
i suggested he get the thin ca
which leads back to the question
pros & cons of thick vs. thin
thanks craig , any insight is appreciated
brent
 

olsonsview

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have been using CA

It seems to work fine for me, I use a paper napkin, folded tight amd apply the finish four times for each napkin. Just using clean spots every coat. I have to spin the cue at maybe 200 rpm and move the napkin fast from end to end of the cue, I squeeze more CA on the cue as I am moving the napkin. I have maybe 20 seconds before the CA starts to kick off and then I must be done. I sometimes use a spray hardener, every other coat. But really I do not need one usually. I always use a thin, or also called "hot" CA from Bob Smith Industries. Good stuff. Many cue supplies sell it with their own label on it, also many hobby shops. A two ounce bottle will do a cue, I have to usually use 20-30 coats or so, wet sanding every 8-12 coats until hazy white with no clear areas which would be low spots. The white sanded areas buff off easy later. I use 400 with water to sand out before I add another 8 coats or so. when I am done, I wet sand to 2000 grit, you should see a smooth white cue, no clear spots. The clear spots are low areas that need more CA. Then I use three steps of buffing. The final sanding and buffing takes 15 min. Beautiful clear finish.
I learned from a top cuemaker.
 

Mc2

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A picture says a thousand words or in the case a video

Brickman said:
HEY GUYS....I am having a problem with a superglue finish that I have been trying. I was wondering if maybe some of you with more exp. could help out?

1. When I put it on it isnt very smooth at all, and has ridges like mini little mountain ranges in it....how do I fix this.....I know sanding.....so how to put on to prevent this is more like what I want to know?

2. After I put it on and start to sand , or into sanding, it gets huge white splotches in it, and will not buff out......almost like white dust or plastic dust caught in it.....even though I know it doesnt have the dust in it, I still cant get it right. I can get maybe 80-90% of the cue to shine very good and then there are the white splothces.....please help me before I beat my brains out with a hammer.:D


ANY OTHER ADVICE ON SUPERGLUE/ EPOXY RUB ON FINISHES WOULD BE GREAT, AND i WOULD BE VERY VERY GRATEFULL FOR THE HELP.......I know many of you do these and other types of finishes in your sleep so to speak so your exp , would be very much appreciated as I am really being held up by this, and I have a couple of cues that need more than an rubbed finsh to get done.......please help me........any advice is appreciated. :)

This forum is a great place to get advise and all methods work. Unfortunatly it is hard to understand all aspects of this process. I have only done a couple of cues and just now am getting it down. I purchased Cue Components dvd's "Proper Finishing Techniques", which shows the application of CA over apoxy. If you want to actually see it applied this is not a bad way to go. IMO the only way to go if you can't spray.

Jim.
 

Brickman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
THANKS AGAIN GUYS.....YOU GUYS ARE REALLY GREAT TO HELP A NEWBEE OUT......AND FOR THAT I AM VERY GRATEFULL :) :)


I have gotten several good tips and I will be trying them this week for sure.....maybe I can get all this worked out before too long :D :D


THANKS AGAIN GUYS :)
 

cutter

Steve Klein Custom Cues
Silver Member
Super-glue

In my pre spray days, I only used thin and spun it fast with the paper towel. Seemed to cure almost immediately. Never used kicker. I'm still found of USA Balsa super glue, They make it them selves. Make sure you are wearing a respirator, that stuff can give you an asthmatic reaction. Although no matter what Diekman said in his tapes, it doesn't give off cyanide gas.
 

almer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I make some pens also and belong to penturners .org,they have a forum on finshing with ca,all you ever need to know on ca and other finishes,i like the ca boiled linseed oil myself,have sold some pens that are 2 yrs old,used every day and still look good.
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
BHQ said:
what advantage does the thicker formula have over the thin???
i've only used the thin ca myself on a few cues
i'm still not convinced about the durability of ca finish
i don't mean to start a big discussion about that, everybody has thier own ideas about it and have stated it on az many times.
but in scotty's case, he cannot spray cues for several reasons, so, he's forced to use it
scotty & i talked on phone earlier tonight
after talking for awhile i finally figured out he was using gel formula
i suggested he get the thin ca
which leads back to the question
pros & cons of thick vs. thin
thanks craig , any insight is appreciated
brent

Hello Brent, I use the thick because it will harden slower, and unless you put to much on it will not run with the lathe spinning at all, which saves clean-up. The fact that it hardens slower, allows the Super Glue to be more evenly spread, which reduces the amount sanding later, and you do not have to use many coats to achieve the same results. Now, I am uncertain how other brands of Super Glues work, because I only use the brand pictured in an earlier post from this thread, but this brand works very very well.

I have some cues that were finished with Super glue more than a year ago, these cues are used on a daily basis and the finish is holding up as good as finish used for cues today, and these cues do not have a wrap.

I use the Flash accelerator because it will not allow the normal air bubbles to form due to drying or later. With the accelerator I have listed the finish is dry immediately and within one to two minutes I can apply another coat. The accelerator also, very greatly reduces the oder from the Super Glue itself. Most people do not realize it, but most of the oder is a chemical reaction from the Super glue and the bleaching agents in the paper towels. If you watch closely after applying the Glue, smoke will rise from the paper towel, not the surface of the applied Super Glue. If the used paper towel is immediately placed by your venting vacuum the smoke and oder is not a problem.

Hope this helps Brent, contact me or have your friend contact me if you would like more information.

Have a good Night
 

Cuedog

CUE BALL INCOMING!!!
Silver Member
Lot's of good advice. I don't believe any spoke of a problem with yellowing. With your particular product, is there eventual yellowing that manifests itself? Thanks,

Gene
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
Cuedog said:
Lot's of good advice. I don't believe any spoke of a problem with yellowing. With your particular product, is there eventual yellowing that manifests itself? Thanks,

Gene

I have never seen any yellowing, to date all the finishes I have applied stayed clear and have they have been very durable. Last of all, if the finish is damaged it is also easily repaired without a complete refinish.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
BHQ said:
what advantage does the thicker formula have over the thin???
i've only used the thin ca myself on a few cues
i'm still not convinced about the durability of ca finish
i don't mean to start a big discussion about that, everybody has thier own ideas about it and have stated it on az many times.
but in scotty's case, he cannot spray cues for several reasons, so, he's forced to use it
scotty & i talked on phone earlier tonight
after talking for awhile i finally figured out he was using gel formula
i suggested he get the thin ca
which leads back to the question
pros & cons of thick vs. thin
thanks craig , any insight is appreciated
brent
I have put super glue finishies on as far back as 12 years ago and they are still holding up. I notice some shrinkage just like Auto clears give. You will also see more lines where rings come together. If the super glue was a little more flexible it might not have that problem. I now rarely use Super Glue except for the few inches of the shaft at the joint. No spraying for me. All Cue Cote on the butts.
 

RocketQ

It's Not Rocket Science
Silver Member
Brickman I think possibly the white spots you found could have been from dry sanding. When sanding ca always use water and make sure there are no boogers on the paper. It will drive you nuts...

JOhn
 
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masonh

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
is it true that the gas coming off the super glue finish being applied is cyanide gas?
 

dave sutton

Banned
masonh said:
is it true that the gas coming off the super glue finish being applied is cyanide gas?

i dont know but it sure stinks. chokes me up. i have a fan on, window and door open and it still gets me. burns my eyes and everything

i had that same problem with the white marks. i was spinning the cue too fast and the finish was getting too hot and bubbling up off the wood.

slow down cowboy!!! thats what my wife tells me atleast:D :D :D
 
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