Table specification for Gold Crown V

Brisk

Registered
Hi. I just bought a new Gold Crown V in London, UK.

I need to decide on the table specifications, most importantly the size of the pockets. I don't want it to be too difficult but I certainly don't want it to be too easy. I don't aspire to play on any of the UK or European tour events because i'll probably not be good enough -- i'd describe myself as a B level player.

Do you think minimum WPA pocket sizes would be a good idea or perhaps too hard for someone at my level?

-Corner pocket mouth (min: 4.5" max: 4.625")
-Centre pocket mouth (min: 5" max: 5.125")

Does anyone know the pocket sizes for the Mosconi Cup?

thanks.
 
That size pockets are fine for a B player. Or anyone actually as long as they want to play and not use the table as a boredom distraction or as an item to show off to their friends. 4.5" pockets make you focus for sure, but are still wide enough that you can hit to the sides and shoot balls up the rails at decent speeds.
 
Well, they've used Diamonds at the last couple of Mosconi Cups. Assuming they are the pro cut models then that would be 4.5" corners and I believe 5" sides.
 
For a home table I like buckets! No extra shims on a GC (besides the 1 it's supposed to have). I want to build my confidence at home and have the most fun.

FYI, there is a "tournament edition" GC that has tighter pockets from the factory. This includes the rubber cushions being longer as well. Although in the US this model is about 1000 USD more (retail price).
 
I'd personally recommend getting the 4.5" pocket option. This has a nice symmetry (being exactly twice the width of the American size pool balls) and changing it later is a lot of expense. Also if you practice and improve your game you will know it will not be because you have bucket pockets.
 
You're looking at a 1/8" (3mm) difference. I doubt you'd notice a difference (i.e. one isn't going to be particularly easier/harder than another).

"Buckets" are usually 5" (127mm) at the corners.

YMMV
 
Mosconi cup table

Hi. I just bought a new Gold Crown V in London, UK.


-Corner pocket mouth (min: 4.5" max: 4.625")
-Centre pocket mouth (min: 5" max: 5.125")

Does anyone know the pocket sizes for the Mosconi Cup?

thanks.

I was the one who set up the Mosconi Cup tables for the last two events in Las Vegas. Two years ago when Diamond first got involved the pockets were standard pro cut at 4.50 inch corners and 5 inch sides. The players complained that balls were being made too easily with the pro cut pocket with brand new slippery Simonis. This past year the pocket openings were changed to 4.25 inch corners and 4.75 inch side pockets and consequently alot more balls were missed.

The 4.5 inch pocket is a nice size for all around play and that is what I would recommend to most people

Good Luck
Gordon Graham
VEGAS/ SEATTLE
 
That size pockets are fine for a B player. Or anyone actually as long as they want to play and not use the table as a boredom distraction or as an item to show off to their friends. 4.5" pockets make you focus for sure, but are still wide enough that you can hit to the sides and shoot balls up the rails at decent speeds.

Agreed. That is what I would go with for home.
 
I tend to subscribe to the opposite school of thought -- practice on harder equipment makes you stronger. (opens can of worms) Not everyone agrees, but I think that it forces you to really bear down and focus more. I usually play on 3 7/8" pockets... went into a bar the other night and ran 3 racks of 8 ball easily with a house cue off the wall. It seemed so easy on a bar box with 4 1/2" pockets.

Either way, enjoy the table! :)
 
I was the one who set up the Mosconi Cup tables for the last two events in Las Vegas. Two years ago when Diamond first got involved the pockets were standard pro cut at 4.50 inch corners and 5 inch sides. The players complained that balls were being made too easily with the pro cut pocket with brand new slippery Simonis. This past year the pocket openings were changed to 4.25 inch corners and 4.75 inch side pockets and consequently alot more balls were missed.

The 4.5 inch pocket is a nice size for all around play and that is what I would recommend to most people

Good Luck
Gordon Graham
VEGAS/ SEATTLE
I just paid $2300 for a used Gold Crown IV. I bought it after seeing it unassembled. It looks to be in excellent condition, but I'm no pool table expert. The outside was shiny and scratch free. The infrastructure was less shiny but free of cracks, chips, or frays. The castings are gold colored. Maybe that means something. The only thing I didn't get a look at was the bed cloth, but the cushions were covered with simonis 860 and from the look of the rich green hue, had to have been fairly new. It arrives Monday from a reputable used pool table dealership.

Anyhow; I want pockets that are identical to the pockets pro's play on. I want to gauge my ball pocketing skills in comparison with them. I suspect there's a strong possibility I'll discover I miss more often. That's alright. This is the route I want to go.

I'm going to have a highly regarded mechanic set up the table. So If I ask him to make the pockets 4.1/4 and 4.75, will it play identical (or close) to similar settings on a Diamond?
 
... The players complained that balls were being made too easily with the pro cut pocket with brand new slippery Simonis.

Good Luck
Gordon Graham
VEGAS/ SEATTLE

Gordon:

I propose using worn cloth for the rails on tournament tables. Or use a stiff brush on new rails, so they don't let badly hit balls slide in.
 
Gordon:

I propose using worn cloth for the rails on tournament tables. Or use a stiff brush on new rails, so they don't let badly hit balls slide in.
So had the cloth been broken in, the Mosconi Cup players would have preferred the pro-cut, 4.1/2 and 5.00 pockets? It was only because of new cloth that balls were going in too easily, which resulted in the players requesting the tighter pockets.
 
No, their pride won't let them play on 4.5" pockets, they are too good for that.

No one wants to see a ball fall that hits the rail six inches from the pocket. Halfway down the rail, that's another story, as players can do that on purpose, knowing it will bank in.
 
Gold Crown

First I'd check to make sure its authentic since a lot of clones are made in China. Make sure there are Brunswick identifying trademarks when the table is disassembled.:angry:
 
First I'd check to make sure its authentic since a lot of clones are made in China. Make sure there are Brunswick identifying trademarks when the table is disassembled.:angry:

I think that's a bit paranoid...must be 2)7863788 used gold crowns in the us and only 3667h knockoffs
 
I just paid $2300 for a used Gold Crown IV. I bought it after seeing it unassembled. It looks to be in excellent condition, but I'm no pool table expert. The outside was shiny and scratch free. The infrastructure was less shiny but free of cracks, chips, or frays. The castings are gold colored. Maybe that means something. The only thing I didn't get a look at was the bed cloth, but the cushions were covered with simonis 860 and from the look of the rich green hue, had to have been fairly new. It arrives Monday from a reputable used pool table dealership.

Anyhow; I want pockets that are identical to the pockets pro's play on. I want to gauge my ball pocketing skills in comparison with them. I suspect there's a strong possibility I'll discover I miss more often. That's alright. This is the route I want to go.

I'm going to have a highly regarded mechanic set up the table. So If I ask him to make the pockets 4.1/4 and 4.75, will it play identical (or close) to similar settings on a Diamond?
It isn't quite that simple. A properly made pocket has cushions that extend to a point, then have a facing that forms the inside, ' mouth' of the pocket. Therefore, the with of the pocket is determined by the length of the cushions.

The length or the cushions is determined by the length of the material they glue onto, a part of the rail called the subrail. To properly tighten up a pocket, the subrails need to be lengthened. What that gets is a rail that plays properly along its whole length.

Proper:
ffbfb45e6c32c518ffff8017ffffe417.jpg


Or you can jus lump a bunck of rubber in there, but the cushions will play different in the areas close to the pockets:
ffbfb45e6c32c518ffff801affffe417.jpg
 
First I'd check to make sure its authentic since a lot of clones are made in China. Make sure there are Brunswick identifying trademarks when the table is disassembled.:angry:
I'm sure it's not a knockoff. I bought it at a used table dealership on the north side of Chicago that has a track record of fine customer service.
 
It isn't quite that simple. A properly made pocket has cushions that extend to a point, then have a facing that forms the inside, ' mouth' of the pocket. Therefore, the with of the pocket is determined by the length of the cushions.

The length or the cushions is determined by the length of the material they glue onto, a part of the rail called the subrail. To properly tighten up a pocket, the subrails need to be lengthened. What that gets is a rail that plays properly along its whole length.

Proper:
ffbfb45e6c32c518ffff8017ffffe417.jpg


Or you can jus lump a bunck of rubber in there, but the cushions will play different in the areas close to the pockets:
ffbfb45e6c32c518ffff801affffe417.jpg
Thanks. You just taught me something I didn't know. As I said, I'm having a fine mechanic do the set-up but it's nice to know these things beforehand.
 
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