Taper attachments for sale for Engine Lathes, complete, ready to ship!

G

gpd123

Banned
Hey guys, I have a couple taper bars for sale. One of them is used and the others are just waiting to go on other machines. I bought enough material to build several of these. Here are some pictures, OAL is 32" between the indexing plates. The other ones use a regular knurled hand retractable plunger for indexing. Bearing is a 7/16x1.125x.375" mounted with a grade 8 bolt, jam nuts and 2 aluminum spacers that you can cut shorter for your lathe. I intentionally left the spring retainer studs long for multiple applications. So the mount stays put and you adjust the stud instead of the mounting location.

Price is $650.00 + Shipping, which should be about $30.00 bucks anywhere in the cont. US. Packaged "right", in a heavy duty box so it will get to you without being damaged.

This price includes 3 Delrin Taper Bars. One of which is set up for a straight taper, the other is set up for a 12" Pro Taper, but can be set up for any length pro taper you want, and the 3rd can be set up for whatever you want, maybe for cutting points ?

If you would like to have extra taper bars they are $65.00 each including hardware.

Let me know if you have any questions. These are built and ready to ship. I know I don't have much experience on here, but I do have 935 (100% positive) feedback on Ebay as a seller since 2003.

If you would like one of these built to your specs, let me know, that's not a problem at all. For instance, if you would like it to be longer, or you have special needs for mounting, like a rounded cover on the back of the cross slide on old south bend lathes, or whatever you need just let me know.

Thanks,

Geoff
Email: sales@avsigns.com
Phone: 815.218.2712
 
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Sir, I would like to suggest that you post your contact information to include your name, address, phone number so that it can be filed
in our personal contacts. That way anyone could refer those in need to you.

Good Cuemaking,
 
nice original design! Must have taken alot of thought to come up with something like that!
 
Trent said:
I take it u have to take the taper bars off when going from butt to shaft? Seems like a nice set up.
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No, you index the bar around to one of the other 3 locations. I only had the straight taper bar on it when I took the pictures. You can mount up to 4 bars, then index 90, 180 or 270 degrees to the next bar.
 
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ChampionsRepair said:
Or a quick search on the forums...

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=209223&highlight=taper
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Cars all have 4 wheels an engine, and you get in and drive to your destination. Take a Mercedes for instance, which you will pay dearly for, and the ford escort. Both cars will get you from point A to point B, but the guy that bought the escort paid a whole lot less for his "transportation". He doesn't care if it has the best leather money can buy, or a 550hp engine, his car is "transportation", it doesn't need to be "pretty" it needs to get him from home to work, and back home again. These taper bars are no different. Both work the same, but there is a REALLY LARGE difference in cost. So, if you like round index plates, black and red anodizing, by all means, buy the Mercedes. But if you need functionality and value while maintaining effectiveness buy the escort!

Personally, I prefer the Delrin Taper bar to an aluminum bar. Not only is it considerably less expensive to produce than a similar aluminum bar. But it bends laterally as needed and holds that shape very well. Setting up the pro taper is much easier AND no CNC machining is necessary to produce it.
:grin::confused:
 
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gpd123 said:
Cars all have 4 wheels an engine, and you get in and drive to your destination. Take a Mercedes for instance, which you will pay dearly for, and the ford escort. Both cars will get you from point A to point B, but the guy that bought the escort paid a whole lot less for his "transportation". He doesn't care if it has the best leather money can buy, or a 550hp engine, his car is "transportation", it doesn't need to be "pretty" it needs to get him from home to work, and back home again. These taper bars are no different. Both work the same, but there is a REALLY LARGE difference in cost. So, if you like round index plates, black and red anodizing, by all means, buy the Mercedes. But if you need functionality and value while maintaining effectiveness buy the escort!

Personally, I prefer the Delrin Taper bar to an aluminum bar. Not only is it considerably less expensive to produce than a similar aluminum bar. But it bends laterally as needed and holds that shape very well. Setting up the pro taper is much easier AND no CNC machining is necessary to produce it.
:grin::confused:
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wouldnt the escort be considerably less expensive?

The mercedes comes with 5 taper bars

the escort comes with 2, add the other 3 plus shipping and you save like 30 bucks. just tryn to find the value reffered to....imo, your analogy would be fantastic if the price reflected it.
 
LGSM3 said:
wouldnt the escort be considerably less expensive?

The mercedes comes with 5 taper bars

the escort comes with 2, add the other 3 plus shipping and you save like 30 bucks. just tryn to find the value reffered to....imo, your analogy would be fantastic if the price reflected it.
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WOW! Now, try to follow along, ok ?

The point is that you don't need a rough and finish bar for the butt and the shaft. I have never seen anyone use anything but a straight taper for the rough and finish on the butt, and the rough on the shaft. Then you would have a pro taper for the finish on the shaft. I read an explanation of what a rough taper bar was for a shaft and I couldn't stop laughing. EVERY cue maker I've ever come in contact with cuts a shaft straight until they start to put the pro taper on it, NO ? So, that's my point.. If you would rather pay more for options that are going to do nothing for you, and pay extra for some pretty red and black anodizing, have at it. But that last I saw, the guy that was building those was pretty seriously hurt in an accident, so he won't be building anything, so here is an alternative, and WHAT A BONUS, it's at a discount too! Make sense now ?
 
gpd123 said:
WOW! Now, try to follow along, ok ?

The point is that you don't need a rough and finish bar for the butt and the shaft. I have never seen anyone use anything but a straight taper for the rough and finish on the butt, and the rough on the shaft. Then you would have a pro taper for the finish on the shaft. I read an explanation of what a rough taper bar was for a shaft and I couldn't stop laughing. EVERY cue maker I've ever come in contact with cuts a shaft straight until they start to put the pro taper on it, NO ? So, that's my point.. If you would rather pay more for options that are going to do nothing for you, and pay extra for some pretty red and black anodizing, have at it. But that last I saw, the guy that was building those was pretty seriously hurt in an accident, so he won't be building anything, so here is an alternative, and WHAT A BONUS, it's at a discount too! Make sense now ?
Click to expand...

I believe many makers use a compound taper for their butts. I'll ask you don't start yelling and arguing with me or I'll start calling you Lee:)
 
gpd123 said:
WOW! Now, try to follow along, ok ?

The point is that you don't need a rough and finish bar for the butt and the shaft. I have never seen anyone use anything but a straight taper for the rough and finish on the butt, and the rough on the shaft. Then you would have a pro taper for the finish on the shaft. I read an explanation of what a rough taper bar was for a shaft and I couldn't stop laughing. EVERY cue maker I've ever come in contact with cuts a shaft straight until they start to put the pro taper on it, NO ? So, that's my point.. If you would rather pay more for options that are going to do nothing for you, and pay extra for some pretty red and black anodizing, have at it. But that last I saw, the guy that was building those was pretty seriously hurt in an accident, so he won't be building anything, so here is an alternative, and WHAT A BONUS, it's at a discount too! Make sense now ?
Click to expand...

Stick to promoting your product, not denigrating your competition.
 
gpd123 said:
WOW! Now, try to follow along, ok ?

The point is that you don't need a rough and finish bar for the butt and the shaft. I have never seen anyone use anything but a straight taper for the rough and finish on the butt, and the rough on the shaft. Then you would have a pro taper for the finish on the shaft. I read an explanation of what a rough taper bar was for a shaft and I couldn't stop laughing. EVERY cue maker I've ever come in contact with cuts a shaft straight until they start to put the pro taper on it, NO ? So, that's my point.. If you would rather pay more for options that are going to do nothing for you, and pay extra for some pretty red and black anodizing, have at it. But that last I saw, the guy that was building those was pretty seriously hurt in an accident, so he won't be building anything, so here is an alternative, and WHAT A BONUS, it's at a discount too! Make sense now ?
Click to expand...

yah, the answer to your question is NO. Besides, i was not asking for a clarification on Tapering techniques.

I was straight up questioning your integrity.

This thread would have been cool if you posted pics of this saying, you were inspired by the original design, so you thought you would build one for yourself in lieu dropping the cash. That might have been pretty cool.

Instead you post an obvious knockoff, Admit the lower cost of production and have an asking price comperable to an orginal, with an obvious higher production cost.

Sorry if i'm still not following along:wink:

what did you expect?
 
pescadoman said:
I believe many makers use a compound taper for their butts. I'll ask you don't start yelling and arguing with me or I'll start calling you Lee:)
Click to expand...

The shafts for sure have compound tapers.
http://forums.azbilliards.com//attachment.php?attachmentid=160600&d=1289743785
There's a reason for those multiple sections.


This one looks serviceable enough. With some imagination and knowing your tapers, you can easily razor blade, or plainer and sand some portions of the delrin bar.
 
gpd123 said:
WOW! Now, try to follow along, ok ?

The point is that you don't need a rough and finish bar for the butt and the shaft. I have never seen anyone use anything but a straight taper for the rough and finish on the butt, and the rough on the shaft. Then you would have a pro taper for the finish on the shaft. I read an explanation of what a rough taper bar was for a shaft and I couldn't stop laughing. EVERY cue maker I've ever come in contact with cuts a shaft straight until they start to put the pro taper on it, NO ? So, that's my point.. If you would rather pay more for options that are going to do nothing for you, and pay extra for some pretty red and black anodizing, have at it. But that last I saw, the guy that was building those was pretty seriously hurt in an accident, so he won't be building anything, so here is an alternative, and WHAT A BONUS, it's at a discount too! Make sense now ?
Click to expand...

Funny. I talked to Tom last week because I will be ordering a set from him and he was just too busy... He said he had a small run of his taper bar setup on the works and not too far from done.
I will call Tom tomorrow to check on him.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JoeyInCali said:
The shafts for sure have compound tapers.
http://forums.azbilliards.com//attachment.php?attachmentid=160600&d=1289743785
There's a reason for those multiple sections.


This one looks serviceable enough. With some imagination and knowing your tapers, you can easily razor blade, or plainer and sand some portions of the delrin bar.
Click to expand...

I was referencing the OP's remark about "never seen anyone use anything but a straight taper for the rough and finish on the butt" Joey.

I believe you use a compound butt taper, if I am not mistaken? I know McWorter does.
 
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