windward said:
Not completely true IMO.
Full table draw to get position on the 9.
On tight pockets, esp. on 4" diamond pockets like Rift mentioned, this shot will simply not be accepted 90% of the time, no matter where you hit the pocket.
The dumbest question ever
- Thread starter mullyman
- Start date
Not completely true IMO.
Full table draw to get position on the 9.
On tight pockets, esp. on 4" diamond pockets like Rift mentioned, this shot will simply not be accepted 90% of the time, no matter where you hit the pocket.
Jerry Forsyth
Well-known member
Not the dumbest question
That is certainly not the dumbest question. All dumb questions begin with: "Honey, do you mind if I..."
That is certainly not the dumbest question. All dumb questions begin with: "Honey, do you mind if I..."
RiverCity said:
Simply not true Chuck!!!!!!!!
Russ...
If I understood Glen(RKC) correctly he said that the pocket facings are made of a softer material then Diamonds or Gold crowns and that causes the ball to be rejected.That shot could not have been made very often on my Olhausen but it will go on my Diamond pro.kingwang said:
monchiwai said:Check out the pic in my signature.... around 3.6inches...
Mully... where in Japan are you in? I am in Tokyo and the pic in my signature was also taken here....
let's go shoot some pool together if you are in Tokyo too...
Chi Wai
I'm down in Shizuoka. We could meet up somewhere in the middle, like Mishima or Fuji if you'd like. Don't bring that tight table with you though, it'll only hurt my feelings.
MULLY
poolhustler said:
Actually, I have to agree with Chuck. With super tight pockets you really do limit yourself as to what you can do position wise. In my personal opinion, I prefer the bigger pockets because I like the subtlety of being able to use the entire pocket to my advantage.... I mean, I don't want huge buckets sitting there but I also don't want balls that are supposed to go in to.............not go in. hehehe!! Not too many things piss me off more than hitting a ball down the rail and seeing the ball get spit out from the cushion facing inside the pocket. That's just silly. With that said though, I would prefer a tight pocket over one that has a deep shelf. I think I hate the deep shelved tables more than anything.
MULLY
Definately. And along with the depth on the lip of the pocket, the cut angle on the rubber can make or break an otherwise good table. Ive seen tables with poorly cut pockets in the 4.75" range that rattle and spit more balls out than a table with 4.5" or less pockets with the proper angle to the rubber.mullyman said:
Chuck
mullyman said:Guys, I'm going to go ahead and call myself a bunch of ludicrous names and pick on myself incessantly so there's no need to add to it, unless you absolutely can't resist.........and I won't blame you if you do.
I've been playing pool for as long as I can remember. Going back to when I was a little kid even. There was always pool in my life in some form. I've made my way up to the SA class here in Japan and have won many a tournament and have even been ranked number one in the Prefecture. Even after all of that.........I'm not sure about pocket size when someone says 4 and a half inch pockets etc... I'm assuming 4.5in pockets are pretty tight. I recall Grady saying something on an Accu-Stats tape about the old time players "using mud balls on tables with 5in pockets." So, if someone could clear this up for me it would be a great help.
What is the standard pocket size and what is considered tight?
MULLY
go ahead, make fun of me, I deserve it
kinda like p*^#y....aint tight if you can put both hands in AND clap...
ink:
Mully,
This was a really good question, IMO. I have never been much of a stickler for the technical aspects of the pool tables, but I certainly know when a table is tight, or the shelf is deeper, etc by the way the balls go (or don't). It is really good to know the different pocket measurements, what tourneys OK, etc.
I prefer playing on a GCIII with double-shimmed pockets. We have one table set up that way at the pool room. When your stroke is good on it, ALL of the other pockets look like buckets.
Real good info here...
Joe
This was a really good question, IMO. I have never been much of a stickler for the technical aspects of the pool tables, but I certainly know when a table is tight, or the shelf is deeper, etc by the way the balls go (or don't). It is really good to know the different pocket measurements, what tourneys OK, etc.
I prefer playing on a GCIII with double-shimmed pockets. We have one table set up that way at the pool room. When your stroke is good on it, ALL of the other pockets look like buckets.
Real good info here...
Joe
jay helfert said:
Wouldn't it be nice if all floors were perfectly level and they could settle on an official height? As a table mechanic, I've seen plenty of basements with more than a 2" drop over 9 feet, so the rule makes sense to me, but it's definitely uncomfortable to shoot on the high side!
Bamacues said:
You know, that is a perfect example. Now please don't take offense because this isn't pointed at you. If I was to say that sentence I would have no idea what it meant in the technical aspect. I think a lot of us hear things around the pool rooms and they enter into our vocabulary without us even really understanding what they actually mean. Like the bolded sentence above. I like the way that table plays, I've heard someone say it's "double-shimmed" before and from that point forward I have that sentence in my library. But what exactly is "double-shimmed?" I mean, I know what a shim is, I've shimmed joints of guitars so the neck would fit tighter/higher. But how exactly is a pocket shimmed? Do they actually put some piece of something in between the original rubber and the cloth? How do they keep it from sliding around when they're putting the cloth on? So I'm assuming double-shimmed means there are 2 pieces in there? Hey, I may be right, but I honestly have no idea if I am or not.
MULLY
and if it's double-shimmed then what size do the pocket become?
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mullyman said:Guys, I'm going to go ahead and call myself a bunch of ludicrous names and pick on myself incessantly so there's no need to add to it, unless you absolutely can't resist.........and I won't blame you if you do.
I've been playing pool for as long as I can remember. Going back to when I was a little kid even. There was always pool in my life in some form. I've made my way up to the SA class here in Japan and have won many a tournament and have even been ranked number one in the Prefecture. Even after all of that.........I'm not sure about pocket size when someone says 4 and a half inch pockets etc... I'm assuming 4.5in pockets are pretty tight. I recall Grady saying something on an Accu-Stats tape about the old time players "using mud balls on tables with 5in pockets." So, if someone could clear this up for me it would be a great help.
What is the standard pocket size and what is considered tight?
MULLY
go ahead, make fun of me, I deserve it
Youre going to the hot country for this question!
Kidding. I agree with what is said about 4 inch pockets here, it hinders your ability to play proper position, making some shots not possible.
You are right on about the shims. There are hard rubber shims glued to the inside "corners" of the rail rubbers before the rail cloth is put on. It makes the pockets smaller, but it also makes the balls react differently when they touch the inside of the rails. Balls tend to go back and forth from point to point rather loudly, and exit the pocket at weird angles.mullyman said:
Shims also affect banks when the object ball has to hit the rail real close to the pocket..... funny things can happen, that arent really funny.
Chuck
Ok, so tell me this, let's say you're going to order a Gold Crown or a Diamond, what are the standard size pockets they come with? If, for example, the standard is 5in., if you tell them you want 4.5in pockets do they make rail rubber for your table, or have it on hand, or does the set up guy do that when he sets the table up?
MULLY
MULLY
