The moose head bridge....>=(

Do not follow Tigereye's directions

Lay the Moosehead on the ground and then take the cue and kinda push down with a twist... should slide right in...well thats what she said anyway...lol!!:grin:

There is a large and small side of the rubber insert . Put the butt of the cue on the ground make sure you start the large side on first.
It is suppose to fit tight, just twist and push it on at eye level where you can see what you are doing. Should easily fit 13mm and under.
If your shaft is on the thinner side :eek: put the small side on first.
I also would suggest a touch up sanding just to be safe
Anybody need Mooseheads I have plenty. Please PM
 
Moseheadh Bridge...Thanks Rackem...

There is a large and small side of the rubber insert . Put the butt of the cue on the ground make sure you start the large side on first.
It is suppose to fit tight, just twist and push it on at eye level where you can see what you are doing. Should easily fit 13mm and under.
If your shaft is on the thinner side :eek: put the small side on first.
I also would suggest a touch up sanding just to be safe
Anybody need Mooseheads I have plenty. Please PM


Thanks Rackem...
 
Tiger Products' "Corona" leather bridge head

I don't think normal use would dent it but I'd put moneu on it if you drop the shaft on it too hard or the shaft bounces on it after a hard shot etc.

Anywho . . .

I use a old leather bridge head , don't know who makes or made it but it's pretty idiot proof all around. ;)

I agree with RRfireblade; I'd be leery about even the slightest jounce of the shaft hitting those ball bearings when placing the cue onto it (which, during the "heat of battle" or pressure situations, one can agree is a fairly high likelihood).

I also use and prefer a leather bridge head; in my case (both literally and figuratively), it's Tiger Products "Corona" bridge head:

http://tigerproducts.com/store/product.php?productid=16187&cat=248&page=1
t_16187.jpg


These are also available much less expensively through volume outlets like Muellers and Seyberts (the links I've attached to the names will take you right to the Corona bridge in that store's catalog).

For the price, the assurance that the bridge will NEVER scratch or ding your shaft is well worth it, IMHO.

Hope this is helpful,
-Sean
 
Holy Crap!! Now I know why the hostility from you Grey Ghost?

The link to the Omni Bridge that I have on my site was directly to www.highrollerbilliard.com that Joel used to have the Omni Bridge.

Apparently, the site highrollerbilliard.com was re-directed to this new link:

http://www.secretsharksociety.com/

So who ever built the site and is selling the product for $99.99 is the person you're looking for...not me. I have the omni bridge on my site with Joel's Permission and it was price at 34.99 as instructed by Joel. I will contact Joel tomorrow.

Regards,
Duc.
 
In favor of the Moosehead

I too have been using a moosehead bridge for many years and haven't experienced any troubles. I just make sure to use it only on a house cue or on my J/B cue. When it's on my J/B, I simply make sure I keep it on the ferrule and never up on the shaft. I also like the product because it's small, light and easily stores in the case.
 
Tiger had a booth at the Pacquiao Open at Hard Times so I picked up one of their Corona leather bridge heads. I would highly recommend it.

It is a classic looking bridge head, similar in shape to the typical pool hall bridge head. The thing I like about it is that the entire head is made of leather rather than plastic or metal with just a strap of leather running across the grooves that can wear out or come off when the glue fails. It's doubtful this thing would ding a shaft even if the cue is dropped on it during placement. It certainly would not scratch a shaft during the stroke. Cost about $15 and is well worth it. :thumbup2:
 
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Can't say I like that Omni Bridge at all. Only two heights to choose from and the elevated heights don't look high enough to do the job. I'll stick with the "Moosehead".

Another thought that came to my mind was that it doesn't seem practical for a game like 1pkt or 14.1 with many balls in a cluster. The thickness of the bridge would seem to make it impossible to place between balls as easily as a thin bridge, and even if the balls were far enough apart to get it in there, the height would suffer.

For those who want a specialty bridge to add to their tool box it sure couldn't hurt having one.


edit .... btw, if you have a moosehead type bridge try rounding out the places the cue rests with rolled up sandpaper so there are no sharp edges.
 
Mechanical bridges ... moosehead or otherwise ... are the worst enemy of a nice smooth slick cue shaft. IMHO
 
Mechanical bridges ... moosehead or otherwise ... are the worst enemy of a nice smooth slick cue shaft. IMHO

I always thought tile floors and table lights with sharp edges were the worst culprits. :grin-square:

edit .... btw, if you have a moosehead type bridge try rounding out the places the cue rests with rolled up sandpaper so there are no sharp edges.


Yes, you could sand out the grooves with sandpaper or a dremel but you may still cause damage if you should drop your stick on it while preparing for a shot. Another potential problem with the moosehead bridge is that it has fairly deep grooves. When you have to pick up the bridge and cue in a hurry to avoid moving balls it is quite possible to twist or tweek the bridge relative to the cue and cause damage to the shaft because the shaft can get stuck in the deep grooves. But hey, how much can you expect from a $1.50 bridge head?

That's why I went with the Tiger Products Corona. The design/materials are well thought out, especially in regard to cue preservation, and it's at a decent price point. Tiger is also active in supporting players and tournaments. :wink: Because I know it won't scratch my shaft I can actually practice with it.
 
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