The perfect GC1, 2, 3, 4, 5, &6, really?

This is how you measure the corner pockets. Take the protractor measurement and place the legs on a ruler then measure the distance between the points of the legs, in this case the pocket opening from point to point measures 4 1/2" inches, yet the 2 balls set inside of the jaws of the pocket a little. The reason that happens is because in order to split the balls between the points of the pocket opening, the pocket would need to be measured at 4 7/16" because the balls don't touch at the points of the pocket, they touch below that point, which is actually wider than the measured distance of the pocket. So this pocket is actually 4 9/16" at the mouth of the pocket, a 1/16" wider than the measured pocket opening being 4 1/2".

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Is there a mind blown emoji? Or maybe it's just the moiré created by the pixels and the weave of the cloth. It makes perfect sense but it never occurred to me.
 
Cool thread and pics, thanks for sharing.

Interesting, I've never seen anyone else trim pockets in such a similar way. Pretty cool.

meNIamT.jpg


AUrgSfr.jpg
 
Cool thread and pics, thanks for sharing.

Interesting, I've never seen anyone else trim pockets in such a similar way. Pretty cool.

meNIamT.jpg


AUrgSfr.jpg
I started finishing my pocket work like that many, many years ago because I didn't like seeing the staples or the flaps. Takes a little longer, but the overall look is definitely worth it. I like that fact that a lot of people have picked up on it and are either adding the final touch on their own table, or mechanics are offering to finish the pockets my way too.
 
I started finishing my pocket work like that many, many years ago because I didn't like seeing the staples or the flaps. Takes a little longer, but the overall look is definitely worth it.

For sure. My dad owned a vending company when I was a kid. Apparently he had someone reach in a pocket and get sliced presumably by a loose staple. So he started do them that way, for the extra protection. It's a standard upholstery trim technique I picked it up from him and use alot on other upholstery work, boats, etc.
 
And who do you suppose wrote the book, or videos in this case for properly installing the Simonis cloths?
I set the standards on how to install Simonis cloth, is that enough proof for you?
And not just for Simonis cloth, for ALL cloths!
At the bottom of this page Simonis says that 3M Fast-Bond10 is the only glue they are aware of that is suitable for edge-glue installation. If you have them correct that page to list your glue as well I bet it would lead to increased sales.
 
So you're saying on every GC pool table made in the last 60 years, the pockets in the rails don't line up with the pockets in the slate and no one has ever noticed it?
I noticed it many times just by looking down at the side pocket. Had no idea why or how to correct it. Always thought it was an error during the set up of the table. It could often cause balls to get hung up on the ball return by the side pockets on the old Gold Crowns, but wtf do I know?
 
I noticed it many times just by looking down at the side pocket. Had no idea why or how to correct it. Always thought it was an error during the set up of the table. It could often cause balls to get hung up on the ball return by the side pockets on the old Gold Crowns, but wtf do I know?
I've seen it on some but not all. But I've seen similar issues on other tables as well. Hard to say why across the board.
 
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By the fact that the same tables today have the same bolt hole issues, from the last 80 years, speaks volumes to the fact that no one pays attention, or just assumes everything is always right, or just don't care to make it right.
"No one"?
You are wrong on all three counts....
YOU pay attention...
YOU never assume everything is always right...
And YOU care enough to make it right.😬
 
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Never lower value than thou easily, maintain, oh great fixer of pool tables!
What are you like 12 years old or something?
The dude is just baiting you.

Great info BTW, wish I could get you to setup my GC 1. The balls seem to roll off towards the rails and get sucked into the pocket. I'm sure it has something to due with the frame but the mechanic who set it up came back threw some shims in but never really solved the problem.
 
The dude is just baiting you.

Great info BTW, wish I could get you to setup my GC 1. The balls seem to roll off towards the rails and get sucked into the pocket. I'm sure it has something to due with the frame but the mechanic who set it up came back threw some shims in but never really solved the problem.
There's a lot of mastur-baitors on AZ billiards! If you'll call me, I'll explain why your table plays like that and gow to fix it.
702-927-5689
 
Name another table you can get used for less than 2K and get it redone for another K or 2 that would be as good as GC1 or GC2 .
 
Name another table you can get used for less than 2K and get it redone for another K or 2 that would be as good as GC1 or GC2 .
Commercial table wise, the GC's are the only tables that can compete with Diamonds if they're rebuilt right. There is no such table as a GC2, all that is, is GC1 with a different paint job, and in case you wasn't aware of it, the GC1 is the worst GC built and has the most engineering flaws in the design of it than the 3, 4, 5, and 6 that followed.
 
But don't think I'm picking on the GC1's alone, the first build Diamonds before 2000 i won't even consider working on them because they were so horrible built as well.
 
Commercial table wise, the GC's are the only tables that can compete with Diamonds if they're rebuilt right. There is no such table as a GC2, all that is, is GC1 with a different paint job, and in case you wasn't aware of it, the GC1 is the worst GC built and has the most engineering flaws in the design of it than the 3, 4, 5, and 6 that followed.
So, there's still nothing in the under 3-5K that can compete with rejuvenated GC1 or GC3's?
 
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