Throwing Your Cue....

mullyman said:
My initial thoughts on looking at this particular shot is that I can probably do this on a fairly consistent basis. Let me make sure about this. I have to pocket the ball in the upper corner and draw the CB back into that boxed area? Am I allowed to use a cushion? Seems like a helluva cheat of the pocket to not use the cushion.
MULLY
Try the shot with and without the side cushion to see which is easier for you. But I practice the shot without a side cushion.
 
mullyman said:
Bob, love this pdf you posted. Is it OK if I print it out?
MULLY
just getting permission
Feel free. I wouldn't have put it up and expected people not to make copies for their own use. I don't even mind if instructors print it out to help with classes as long as they don't strip the logo stuff.
 
SpiderWebComm said:
It looks like the angle into the pocket, based on your setup is dead straight in. Do you cheat the pocket and use the rail? Or, are you throwing the OB in right right-spin to get that far to the right? I never shot it or practiced it--- I just want to get the idea before I start recording.

What's par for the course? If I setup the OB on #5 and the CB at the position shown, how many times out of 10 is Bob Jewett in the little gray box?

Dave
The cue ball is in hand behind the line. The point is to discover what angle you need to achieve the draw angle. I recommend no cushion and no side spin.

Progressive practice gives you a distance at which you are 50% on the shot. Read the PDF. In the current sorry state of my game, I'm 50% at about 4.5 on a table with 4.25-inch pockets.
 
Bob Jewett said:
The cue ball is in hand behind the line. The point is to discover what angle you need to achieve the draw angle. I recommend no cushion and no side spin.

Progressive practice gives you a distance at which you are 50% on the shot. Read the PDF. In the current sorry state of my game, I'm 50% at about 4.5 on a table with 4.25-inch pockets.

Good info--- I can do this w/ ball-in-hand. I'll just set it up at position 5 straight in, with a straight-back angle to the little box. I'll hit it warp speed and make the speed adjustment to the position spot with my tip positioning. Once I get that adjustment, It'll go. I might be thinking too hard. Let me read your instructions.

By the way, you're not fooling me with 'sorry game' talk ;) You're a player-player no matter what you say on AZB.
 
Neil said:
That's the way I practice shot #1 also. Stopping the cb dead, no forward, back, or side motion allowed. I feel it is the way that has practicality to it. Replacing the ob comes in handy once in a while, but not that often.

I was just mentioning earlier that there's a HUGE difference in stroke between stop and slight roll forward. You wouldn't think so, but it's a big difference. It's that stroke he's trying to develop, not the shot.
 
Dave...I agree, and tell you what...When I come see you, I'll set this shot up, with 4 diamonds between the two balls (on hole reinforcements), and bet you dinner that you cannot shoot a perfect stopshot even 3 out of 10 tries! The major point of our conversation, is that Kinister's shot #1 is an extreme shot, and rarely comes up in a game. Therefore, imo, spending a lot of time trying to perfect this shot, before you can even shoot a perfect stopshot, at that distance, is a complete waste of time.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

P.S. The best part of this bet is we'll both get to EAT! :D

SpiderWebComm said:
The only reason I said mega-extreme is you have a few mm tolerance in the reaction of the OB and you're multiple feet away. The difference between a stop shot and a replacement shot is really big--stroke wise-- with shot #1. Anyone can lag-draw, stop that ball. I think I could do that until I got 'bored' and missed. It's not the shot, I think, that's important with shot #1, it's the stroke required.

You're totally correct though... being able to control long-range stop shots is crucial--comes up WAY more times than needing to stun-follow a long range ball.
 
Scott Lee said:
Dave...I agree, and tell you what...When I come see you, I'll set this shot up, with 4 diamonds between the two balls (on hole reinforcements), and bet you dinner that you cannot shoot a perfect stopshot even 3 out of 10 tries! The major point of our conversation, is that Kinister's shot #1 is an extreme shot, and rarely comes up in a game. Therefore, imo, spending a lot of time trying to perfect this shot, before you can even shoot a perfect stopshot, at that distance, is a complete waste of time.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

P.S. The best part of this bet is we'll both get to EAT! :D

I wouldn't take the bet for 1/10 on the hole protector. The shot I shot requires a similar stroke to what you're describing versus the stop shot because of the slight forward rotation. Better a hair more than none at all.

Tell Thorsten or anyone on that list they have action for 8 balls on the hole protector. I'd go broke just to see it. They have a sucker in me, that's for sure;)

When I see you next, I'll buy you dinner for free. I have a lot of questions.

That's all I was saying.

P.S. All shot #1 is have you send out a completely flat ball (long distance)--- it's a different world to control a long flat ball versus a long lag-draw. Your thoughts? Curious on your feelings on that.
 
Dave...That stop shot is required part of the PAT 3 test...4 diamond PERFECT stop shot. I don't know personally know any of the German players, so that's up to you, to get that action! :D

No doubt we'll have that dinner, in the not-to-distant future...and you can ask away!

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

SpiderWebComm said:
I wouldn't take the bet for 1/10 on the hole protector. The shot I shot requires a similar stroke to what you're describing versus the stop shot because of the slight forward rotation. Better a hair more than none at all.

Tell Thorsten or anyone on that list they have action for 8 balls on the hole protector. I'd go broke just to see it. They have a sucker in me, that's for sure;)

When I see you next, I'll buy you dinner for free. I have a lot of questions.

That's all I was saying.

P.S. All shot #1 is have you send out a completely flat ball (long distance)--- it's a different world to control a long flat ball versus a long lag-draw. Your thoughts? Curious on your feelings on that.
 
Tell you soemthing about the hole protector. I don't think that anyone could move the ball forward to replace the OB from anything more than a few inches apart and even then it would be extremely tough. Now, and I really mean this, I enjoy shooting pool and I like learning things that can improve my play and I'll even practice from time to time, but there is no way in Hell that I want to spend the time it would take practicing moving the cueball forward a butt hair after contact. If anyone seriously works on replacing the object ball on that hole protector....well, that's some serious OCD right there.
MULLY
I don't think it could be done consistently though
 
Bob:

Well, that test didn't last long. First shot, made the ball....sucked back to middle table. Second shot, made the ball, sucked back to my rail--but 2 diamonds outside of my little box. Third shot, I flew the CB off the table and it blew up my layered tip LMAO. UGGGGGH. No more pool until I make it to the shop in Baltimore.

After 3 shots, it can be done, although unreliably. I don't like releasing the cue on such a hard draw shot with the butt-end elevated over the rail. I honestly never tried it until just now. Being jacked-up that little bit made a huge difference in how the cue ball reacted. My guess is you probably knew that going in and this made your point :)

With a level cue, I can snap the hell out of the CB (power draw or follow) with a throw-stroke. With an unlevel cue and extreme draw, ya gotta hold on. Release and catch isn't any good for that shot either... not enough power. With the butt jacked-up, the tip of the cue flies up too fast and launches the CB. I just learned one scenario where it can't work, reliably.

Dave

p.s. anyone have a cue i can borrow until the weekend? :'-(

p.p.s. put me on a snooker table with the same distance draw where I can keep that cue level....not a problem.
 
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Wrist position when "throwing" the cue

mullyman said:
Again, I don't know how many times I've written this so far, Dave is saying that throwing the cue like this will prevent the cue twisting in any direction from your grip tightening up. He offered this up as an alternative shot for people that may have trouble keeping everything in line on long straight in shots.

I haven't seen him say even one time that he can stop the cue ball on a postage stamp after going 5 cushions with inside spin. It's an alternative shot for people that have a tendency to grip too tight on the money ball and dog it from the infamous grip twist.
MULLY

Folks:

A late-comer to this thread, and I did my best to read as much of it as I could, but I wanted to lend a little mechanical engineering view to point something out that detractors to this "throwing the cue" technique *might* be overlooking. (And "might" is the key operative word here; I don't mean to use it authoritatively, but rather more as a "have you considered it from this perspective?" viewpoint.) When watching Dave's video, I noticed his wrist position when gripping the cue. It is a *prone* wrist position -- meaning, his wrist is bent outwards (away from the body) slightly, enough so that the palm of his hand is "hovering over" the top surface of the gripping area of the cue, with his fingers and thumb directed down perfectly perpendicular to the floor along the "sides" of the gripping surface of the cue, gently wrapping under it. (I don't know if this is Dave's "normal" wrist position before-discovering/not-using the "throwing the cue" technique, and I use the term "prone" to mean just like it does in competitive rifle shooting -- lying flat on one's belly. The analogy here is "palm = belly.") Keith McCready is an example of a player that uses a prone wrist position, albeit his is an extreme example. This is as opposed to a retrograde wrist position, a la Efren Reyes, where the wrist is bent inwards towards the body with the major knuckles of the fingers (e.g. 2nd joint) pointed towards the floor, the cue "rolling over" the knuckle of the index finger as its fulcrum point during stroke.

What does this have to do with the thread? Mechanics-wise, methinks this "throwing the cue" technique is *much* easier and more natural for a player that uses a prone wrist position, because his/her grip fingers are naturally angled down perpendicular to the floor, along the "sides" of the cue. A pure mechanical analogy might be the "gripper claw" you see attached to a crane in a garbage dump; the gripper claw opens, grabs material, and when finally positioned over the destination deposit area, opens and releases, letting the material fall straight down without any sideways influence from the gripper claw itself. (BTW, I did mean that to be a pure mechanical analogy; no "garbage dump" innuendos to this thread was intended. :-) )

Players that use a straight or retrograde wrist position will have a much tougher time with the "throwing the cue" technique without imparting some kind of "spin" or "roll" to the cue as they try to get their fingers out from under the cue. So it would be safe to say that the "throwing the cue" technique might not be a "natural" or beneficial technique for players that use standard or retrograde wrist position, unless they adopt a very extreme "snap open" motion of the hand, which would be quite unnatural and may even impart some "yaw" to the cue if the cue happens to cling a bit to either the thumb or one of the fingers.

I have seen players like Keith McCready use the "throwing the cue" technique (albeit Keith's sidearm style is extremely unorthodox). And even then, he used it as more as a money-/game-ball "coupe de grace" show-off shot.

Thoughts? What say ye all?
-Sean
 
sfleinen said:
Folks:

A late-comer to this thread, and I did my best to read as much of it as I could, but I wanted to lend a little mechanical engineering view to point something out that detractors to this "throwing the cue" technique *might* be overlooking. (And "might" is the key operative word here; I don't mean to use it authoritatively, but rather more as a "have you considered it from this perspective?" viewpoint.) When watching Dave's video, I noticed his wrist position when gripping the cue. It is a *prone* wrist position -- meaning, his wrist is bent outwards (away from the body) slightly, enough so that the palm of his hand is "hovering over" the top surface of the gripping area of the cue, with his fingers and thumb directed down perfectly perpendicular to the floor along the "sides" of the gripping surface of the cue, gently wrapping under it. (I don't know if this is Dave's "normal" wrist position before-discovering/not-using the "throwing the cue" technique, and I use the term "prone" to mean just like it does in competitive rifle shooting -- lying flat on one's belly. The analogy here is "palm = belly.") Keith McCready is an example of a player that uses a prone wrist position, albeit his is an extreme example. This is as opposed to a retrograde wrist position, a la Efren Reyes, where the wrist is bent inwards towards the body with the major knuckles of the fingers (e.g. 2nd joint) pointed towards the floor, the cue "rolling over" the knuckle of the index finger as its fulcrum point during stroke.

What does this have to do with the thread? Mechanics-wise, methinks this "throwing the cue" technique is *much* easier and more natural for a player that uses a prone wrist position, because his/her grip fingers are naturally angled down perpendicular to the floor, along the "sides" of the cue. A pure mechanical analogy might be the "gripper claw" you see attached to a crane in a garbage dump; the gripper claw opens, grabs material, and when finally positioned over the destination deposit area, opens and releases, letting the material fall straight down without any sideways influence from the gripper claw itself. (BTW, I did mean that to be a pure mechanical analogy; no "garbage dump" innuendos to this thread was intended. :-) )

Players that use a straight or retrograde wrist position will have a much tougher time with the "throwing the cue" technique without imparting some kind of "spin" or "roll" to the cue as they try to get their fingers out from under the cue. So it would be safe to say that the "throwing the cue" technique might not be a "natural" or beneficial technique for players that use standard or retrograde wrist position, unless they adopt a very extreme "snap open" motion of the hand, which would be quite unnatural and may even impart some "yaw" to the cue if the cue happens to cling a bit to either the thumb or one of the fingers.

I have seen players like Keith McCready use the "throwing the cue" technique (albeit Keith's sidearm style is extremely unorthodox). And even then, he used it as more as a money-/game-ball "coupe de grace" show-off shot.

Thoughts? What say ye all?
-Sean

very perceptive. you are right. my wrist position is prone as u would say when throwing because it's the only way to get your hand out of the way.

I don't hold the cue in that way normally. it's an inverse position if u were throwing a dart.

good post
 
Bob Jewett said:
Try the shot with and without the side cushion to see which is easier for you. But I practice the shot without a side cushion.


Ok, set it up last night and this is what happened.

Position 1: 5 for 5
Position 2: 5 for 5
Position 3: 5 for 5
Position 4: Rattled pocket once but made target area with cue ball. 4 for 5
Position 5: Rattled pocket twice but made target area with cue ball. 3 for 5
Position 6: Oops, forgot about position 6 and didn't even try it.

Very interesting drills. Seems to me, for me, that the further away it gets the draw isn't the problem as much as making the ball is. I honestly think the further the ball gets away from me I'm using too much power and not enough stroke. I used to hit those long draw shots really well, loved them. 5 year lay off and I've lost that fluid stroke I had and can't seem to find it.
MULLY
I can feel myself punching the ball
 
sfleinen said:
Folks: ... It is a *prone* wrist position ... Thoughts? What say ye all?
-Sean

Excellent post! That explains why, when I was trying the technique, I ended up catching the cue in my hand at the end of the butt, every time. (I was using a "normal" grip) Thanks.
 
Holding the cue too far "behind" your body?

Vinnie said:
Excellent post! That explains why, when I was trying the technique, I ended up catching the cue in my hand at the end of the butt, every time. (I was using a "normal" grip) Thanks.

You were catching the cue in your hand at the end of the (the = your) butt? Hmm... sounds like your stroke arm was... umm... way too far "behind" your body. Either that, or you have a very, very long upper arm. :-D

Just kidding! Seriously, glad my mechanical engineering insight was helpful.

Cheers,
-Sean
 
sfleinen said:
Folks:

methinks this "throwing the cue" technique is *much* easier and more natural for a player that uses a prone wrist position. ... Players that use a straight or retrograde wrist position will have a much tougher time with the "throwing the cue" technique without imparting some kind of "spin" or "roll" to the cue as they try to get their fingers out from under the cue.
-Sean

Sean -- "Throwing the cue" is normally done without letting the cue fall to the table. The grip pressure is just so slight that the momentum of the cue stick in the forward stroke makes the cue stick slip through the fingers a bit. Whatever gripping fingers one normally has under the butt remain there, but without applying pressure for the brief moment of the throw. I'm sure most of the practitioners mentioned in RonV's post (#75 in this thread) do not use the exaggerated, cue-dropped-on-the-table type of throw. My point, then, as it relates to your post, is that ANY wrist position can be used while throwing the cue in this way. One need not change his wrist position (be it "in," "straight," or "out") when stroking with a throw.
 
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AtLarge said:
Sean -- "Throwing the cue" is normally done without letting the cue fall to the table. The grip pressure is just so slight that the momentum of the cue stick in the forward stroke makes the cue stick slip through the fingers a bit. Whatever gripping fingers one normally has under the butt remain there, but without applying pressure for the brief moment of the throw. I'm sure most of the practitioners mentioned in RonV's post (#75 in this thread) do not use the exaggerated, cue-dropped-on-the-table type of throw. My point, then, as it relates to your post, is that ANY wrist position can be used while throwing the cue in this way. One need not change his wrist position (be it "in," "straight," or "out") when stroking with a throw.

Although you're correct in saying you can successfully throw the cue without the "drop," both practitioners threw the cue and dropped it to the table as I demonstrated.
 
I have to say that I have thrown my cue like a spear at least once in my life. Into the woods after a $1700 dollar loss as I recall. Swore I'd never play again. Now, I have to go. It's my shot.
 
SpiderWebComm said:
Although you're correct in saying you can successfully throw the cue without the "drop," both practitioners threw the cue and dropped it to the table as I demonstrated.
Dave, I imagine when you say "both practitioners" you're referring to Mannino and Nagy. Ron also mentioned a bunch of other practitioners -- most of the filipinos and himself. I'm merely trying to point out that dropping the cue on the table is, as Ron says, the "exaggerated" version of throwing, and that it is not the way all (or even most) "throwers" do it. I think the exaggerated version may scare some people away from trying ANY version of throwing. I think doubters should try it both ways.
 
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