Tip keeps mushrooming after a few games...
- Thread starter smahalko
- Start date
Mushrooming a tip
I never had a moori med mushroom on me,maybe shoot softer or go to hard tip or maybe u want to coat the outside of the tip with thin CA never tried it just sounds good. Lots of luck
I never had a moori med mushroom on me,maybe shoot softer or go to hard tip or maybe u want to coat the outside of the tip with thin CA never tried it just sounds good. Lots of luck
You should try trimming the mushroom off.
Using the tool that straightens the mushroom really only compounds the problem.
You raise the sides, then during play the tip flattens out again causing the mushroom.
If you trim the edges and then re burnish it, should be ok
Using the tool that straightens the mushroom really only compounds the problem.
You raise the sides, then during play the tip flattens out again causing the mushroom.
If you trim the edges and then re burnish it, should be ok
Is there a way to do that without a lathe? I'm guess without one you would want to use a straight razor and ONLY
use the ferrule as a general guide to keep it straight. I'm a little scared to think of getting a nick in the ferrule.
A true med or soft tip will compact with play and mushroom. Burnishing it level is not good for the structure of the tip and will mushroom again. It needs to be cut off.
I don't recommend superglue. The superglue soaks in and makes the outside edge hard making the most important area of the tip play similar to Phenolic. I soak and press my tips in superglue when phenolic is not an option. The end results is an almost Phenolic hit in a leather tip. Unless you have a very consistent stroke and like super hard tips you should stay away from superglue. Why harden the edge and leave the center soft. Get a hard tip from the beginning.
I don't recommend superglue. The superglue soaks in and makes the outside edge hard making the most important area of the tip play similar to Phenolic. I soak and press my tips in superglue when phenolic is not an option. The end results is an almost Phenolic hit in a leather tip. Unless you have a very consistent stroke and like super hard tips you should stay away from superglue. Why harden the edge and leave the center soft. Get a hard tip from the beginning.
Using the burnisher to raise the mushroom will ruin the tip and make it soft and spongy. Once it gets spongy it time for a new tip.
My suggestion is to always let repair man take off the mushroom. I always do it for free for someone that bought the tip from me and I put it on. I include that into the price of the tip-free maintance for life of the tip.
I also would not be afraid of the repairman nicking the ferrule as it is almost impossible to do if done right. I said almost!!!
AB
My suggestion is to always let repair man take off the mushroom. I always do it for free for someone that bought the tip from me and I put it on. I include that into the price of the tip-free maintance for life of the tip.
I also would not be afraid of the repairman nicking the ferrule as it is almost impossible to do if done right. I said almost!!!
AB
I take care of mushroom in one of 2 ways.
I compressed a Tiger Emerald in a C clamp until it kept a .020 compression from the original size. That Seemed to work.
For a single layer tip like a lepro, I cut it to size then I use a flat file to put an ever so slight taper on the tip. It is not really noticeable if you didn't know it was there. This seems to work most of the time.
On soft tips, you will have to just bite the bullet and trim the mushroom off.
Kim
I compressed a Tiger Emerald in a C clamp until it kept a .020 compression from the original size. That Seemed to work.
For a single layer tip like a lepro, I cut it to size then I use a flat file to put an ever so slight taper on the tip. It is not really noticeable if you didn't know it was there. This seems to work most of the time.
On soft tips, you will have to just bite the bullet and trim the mushroom off.
Kim
Simply bring it to a good cue repairman and get a new tip installed the right way the first time.
The tip was put on when I got the cue so, I trust that it was put on correctly.
Looks like I have to look for someone to work on it.
Guess I'll have to look into who can work on it for me, cause I WILL
notice if I make a nick...and it will be on my mind when I'm shooting. LOL!!
Thanks everyone!
Looks like I have to look for someone to work on it.
Guess I'll have to look into who can work on it for me, cause I WILL
notice if I make a nick...and it will be on my mind when I'm shooting. LOL!!
Thanks everyone!
I would just take it back to where you got it and ask him to reshape and burnish the tip. I do follow up work like this as a courtesy to my customers. The leather on a tip is going to move and if it didn't to me that would me that it was super hard. No need to find another repair guy unless he won't make it right for you. It should take him 5 minutes to reshape.
Well under your title you say it's hammer time, is it possible you are shooting to hard? If not the tip is bad, and it should be replaced Moori tips do not normally do that are you sure it is genuine there are lot of counterfeits out there these day!!
Me either. I don't break with my playing cue either, so there arent a lot of hard hits. May you got a dud?
I recently had a tip go bad also, happens once in a while... not all 100% perfect, if you have burnished the crap out of it, and it keeps doing this, either deal with it, or cut it off and put on a new one.
I use Moori Quick III.
Here is my step by step process with just the shaft:
I first have an 8.5 x 11 sheet of binder paper rolled up in a tube and slip it snuggly over the shaft to just below where the tip joins the ferrule. I use scotch tape to keep the binder paper rolled up tight. This protects the ferrule and shaft.
I then use sandpaper starting with the roughest to get the sides of the tip down quickly then use finer then finer grit: 180 then 320 then 400 then 600 then 800 then 1500. I simply place the tip inside a fold in the sheet of sandpaper that I squeeze around the tip with the thumb and index finger of one hand while rotating the shaft with my other hand.
Once the tip's sides are flush with the ferrule I slide the binder paper off of the shaft. Then I put a little spit on my finger and moisten the sides of the tip. Then I rub the sides of the tip all around along the top of a rail. Then I finish off the sides using a paper money bill. Any denomination will work.
Once the tip is flush and nice and shiny I use the tip shaper I have with a nickel and dime depression on opposite sides. I throw it on the carpeted floor with the nickle side up. I put the shaft on the butt. Then I place the tip into the nickle hole and twist the tip back and forth to shape the tip.
Done. Marvelous.
Here is my step by step process with just the shaft:
I first have an 8.5 x 11 sheet of binder paper rolled up in a tube and slip it snuggly over the shaft to just below where the tip joins the ferrule. I use scotch tape to keep the binder paper rolled up tight. This protects the ferrule and shaft.
I then use sandpaper starting with the roughest to get the sides of the tip down quickly then use finer then finer grit: 180 then 320 then 400 then 600 then 800 then 1500. I simply place the tip inside a fold in the sheet of sandpaper that I squeeze around the tip with the thumb and index finger of one hand while rotating the shaft with my other hand.
Once the tip's sides are flush with the ferrule I slide the binder paper off of the shaft. Then I put a little spit on my finger and moisten the sides of the tip. Then I rub the sides of the tip all around along the top of a rail. Then I finish off the sides using a paper money bill. Any denomination will work.
Once the tip is flush and nice and shiny I use the tip shaper I have with a nickel and dime depression on opposite sides. I throw it on the carpeted floor with the nickle side up. I put the shaft on the butt. Then I place the tip into the nickle hole and twist the tip back and forth to shape the tip.
Done. Marvelous.