Titelist conversion edumacation

poke&hope

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am wanting a titelist conversion but not one that has been cut and a piece added to the butt section. I see a number of titelist on az which seem to be fair prices but don't know how to tell if a piece was added. I know I should just ask but not everyone may give me truthfull info. This may seem simple to a cuemaker who has spent his life making and repairing cues,but being a novice buyer I don't know what to look for. What are the things to look for and ask when buying one of these cues. I know the original length was 57 inches. Are there conversions with wraps that are still full spliced one piece? Any education on this subject would greatly be appreciated before I step in a bucket of you know what.
 
I am wanting a titelist conversion but not one that has been cut and a piece added to the butt section. I see a number of titelist on az which seem to be fair prices but don't know how to tell if a piece was added. I know I should just ask but not everyone may give me truthfull info. This may seem simple to a cuemaker who has spent his life making and repairing cues,but being a novice buyer I don't know what to look for. What are the things to look for and ask when buying one of these cues. I know the original length was 57 inches. Are there conversions with wraps that are still full spliced one piece? Any education on this subject would greatly be appreciated before I step in a bucket of you know what.
What I would do is just ask the builder. Most of us do put a new handle in them to get them to today standard length. If being sold by someone other than seller ask them if they know. I shouldnt be to hard to find this out. You could always send some pics to the builder of the cue your interested in and see if they remember!
 
Hi,

When we do a conversion, I like to cut of the front so that I can adjust the points and re-center. This also brings the points a little higher or closer to the joint.

An adjustment must be made via a butt sleeve, wrap, ect. after the cut.

If you are going to take an old cue and modify it, why not make it look and play good my adjusting the diameters and length.

Rick G
 
Hard to tell without looking under the wrap or asking the cue maker, but one clue is if the points are fairly high up the forearm, then it probably had a new handle added. Most that are kept as one piece when converted are wrapless, and the points will generally end lower on the forearm.
 
Thanks to all for information on titelist

Hard to tell without looking under the wrap or asking the cue maker, but one clue is if the points are fairly high up the forearm, then it probably had a new handle added. Most that are kept as one piece when converted are wrapless, and the points will generally end lower on the forearm.

Thanks Mr hoppe this helps,thanks to all for help on this subject.
 
Hard to tell without looking under the wrap or asking the cue maker, but one clue is if the points are fairly high up the forearm, then it probably had a new handle added. Most that are kept as one piece when converted are wrapless, and the points will generally end lower on the forearm.

This is what I usually look for. You can almost be assured that if the cue has very short points it is probably still intact, especially with how long people are making points in this age. It seems that short points are no longer in style (although I still like them, it's now "old school")

-Brandon
 
This is what I usually look for. You can almost be assured that if the cue has very short points it is probably still intact, especially with how long people are making points in this age. It seems that short points are no longer in style (although I still like them, it's now "old school")

-Brandon

I agree. I also like lower points. Look at the old bushka conversion, you can't even see the bottom splice. I think cues look funny when the points almost touch the joint.

Check out this titlist conversion, see how low the points are? Its a great sign the there was no wood added under wrap. Anyone know where this cue is anymore? Havent seen it in a long time.

http://titlist.onthestreets.org/jmw_ebony.html
 
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Not all conversions are done the same way. Most Titleist conversions are made to play like a short splice cue if they have a wrap. This means a joint is put in where the wrap and forearm meet and this is done normally using a tenon and screw. Some feel this is superior to the full splice and others feel differently. For those who want the balance and feel of a full splice cue with a wrap, you can still move the points up closer to the joint to get a decent joint diameter and even up the points. But instead of cutting the cue at the bottom of the points, cut it a few inches from the end, saving just enough wood off the end for a butt sleeve. Then add a little section to make up for the length and wrap over that. Use threaded wood tenons and this maintains the full splice prong and handle and should not change the feel of the hit or balance of a full splice cue. If you do not want a wrap then just add some wood to the end of the cue and make it look nice. Maybe put some butterflies or inlays in it, so it looks like it belongs there.

So to answer your question about what to look for. Unless you can talk to the cuemaker, just assume a wrapped Titleist conversion has a joint added at the wrap and forearm. If there is no wrap then you can see how it was done. Feel free to copy my instructions and take it to a cuemaker and get them to do your conversion that way instead of taking a chance on a cue you are not sure of. Most Titleist cues have too small of a joint area diameter to use them just like they come. That is why most Titleist conversions are done with the wrap/forearm joint.
 
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Cueman is THE MAN

Thanks cueman. The part about sometimes cutting at the end and sometimes in the front, and why they wrap, clears up lot. You are always trying to help and its appreciated along with all the others.
 
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