Use wood filler on scratched shaft?
- Thread starter freeroll
- Start date
I saw someone use superglue to fill a deep scratch, that seemed to work out pretty well.
Have you seen that new glue , that stays liquid until you shine a ultra violet light on it. That stuff works great in the places I have tried it,,and would think this would be a very good spot to use it. I does fill in gaps better that SG does
Depends on whether the wood is removed or not from the impact. I've seen glue used with good results.
I had wood missing...not really carelessness either...lent my '68 Joss to a world champ...
....he caught the corner casting on a GCII...power follow shoot.
A friend, who years later became a respected cue maker, took it home and used a tea kettle...
...took him three weeks but he got the wood flush....left a brown mark about half inch long and a quarter inch wide.....
...eventually, even the discoloration disappeared. :happydance:
Now cue makers have a tool that shoots a thin stream of steam....no more three weeks being careful with a tea kettle.
Isolate the area with blue painter's tape. Wet & thoroughly wring out a small piece of cotton cloth. Fold it a few times to create a pad. Apply a relatively hot clothes iron for a few seconds until the moisture no longer hisses.
One application takes only a few seconds. A dent will eventually raise in 3 or 4 applications. Level and smooth with the least aggressive Q-Smooth grit.
I've taken out moderate dents, and been back playing before the iron can cool down. Shaft was, and still is a smoother than factory 314/2.
Minwax wood filler comes premixed in a convenient tube. Always start with the least invasive techniques first, then if necessary progress to more elaborate and risky choices.
One application takes only a few seconds. A dent will eventually raise in 3 or 4 applications. Level and smooth with the least aggressive Q-Smooth grit.
I've taken out moderate dents, and been back playing before the iron can cool down. Shaft was, and still is a smoother than factory 314/2.
Minwax wood filler comes premixed in a convenient tube. Always start with the least invasive techniques first, then if necessary progress to more elaborate and risky choices.
As others already posted. If it isn't a gouge that removed the wood I have always used water or steam.
Don't ever use a glass or glass rod as all that does is compress the material around it to "blend" the dent or gouge in.
After steaming or using water the wood made be raised higher than the rest of the shaft and will also be rough. You will need to burnish it to reseal. Use a piece of leather or paper. After using it should get back to normal, if it doesn't use 2000 sand paper to smooth out and then burnish.
Don't ever use a glass or glass rod as all that does is compress the material around it to "blend" the dent or gouge in.
After steaming or using water the wood made be raised higher than the rest of the shaft and will also be rough. You will need to burnish it to reseal. Use a piece of leather or paper. After using it should get back to normal, if it doesn't use 2000 sand paper to smooth out and then burnish.
Professional wood workers often use an interesting technique to fill gouges and scrapes. They mix sawdust (of the same wood type) with cryo glue (super glue) and fill the area. When the patch is dry and sanded, it is totally invisible. I saw a wood carver do this once and couldn't believe the results.
The corners of those GCII castings can be brutal on cues.
I was playing in a league on a Valley BB. I had a shot from the corner where my cue would have to slide on the casting. I carry a micro fiber cloth to wipe my hands and shaft in my back pocket. I pulled it out and laid it on the casting.
My opponent said that wasn't allowed in Vegas. I said I am not on Vegas and played the shot. I always lay a cloth over those castings to protect my cue.
Thanks for posting. Great info.
This is a common practice for luthiers in filling gaps in bindings and inlay work and while repairing cracks. They usually apply the ca then sand the area immediately to mix dust from that piece of wood right into the glue. This technique has been used on many very very expensive instruments.
It works good when refinishing a gun stock too!! :thumbup: JB