Hey Bob,
I don't now what I like better. The monkey story or your new avatar. I did not read the print and when I did I laughed like hell.
Say thirsty and in stroke, my friend.
Rick
water born finish
- Thread starter whammo57
- Start date
Hey Bob,
I don't now what I like better. The monkey story or your new avatar. I did not read the print and when I did I laughed like hell.
Say thirsty and in stroke, my friend.
Rick
I think the part, yourself and others might be missing is:
All of the answers and suggestions given are point of views from individual experiences. These are reference points only. What's the right answer?? Well that depends on you. Just for the fact that you are getting these references is more help than most of us have ever gotten. You will not know any of these answers until you try them yourself and not just one, ALL OF THEM. If you base everything you do on the word of someone else, You have failed yourself. jmo
This should be required reading for everyone getting into cuemaking.
To truly understand the hows & whys of EVERY aspect of this craft, there is no better teacher than trial & error...and the learning process should never end.
Excellent post, Mr. Webb.
And this is why cuemaking is so damn addictive. You never really have
the final answer.
Mike, I am not looking for "The Answer". I know there really isn't one. I'm just curious what other people do use and what they don't like and why. Anything I can take out of the equation is a plus. I've tried several different dyes, stains, clear coats, epoxies, shellac (love shellac, darn near everything sticks to it) and I have settled on 2 finish coatings for now. I like Ceramithane, I just wish it set up a bit harder. If I hear people saying they like something better I may give it a shot. Still want to try GF Clear Poly. I've tried 2 epoxy finishes and they were ok but I worry about yellowing (they can promise all they want but when I see the hardener slowly get yellow over time I can only assume the finished product will do the same). I like the way West goes on. I ordered some of the 207 hardener yesterday and if its what they say it is I think I'll like it. Been using West since the late 70's. I still have a couple I want to try like spraying Hydrocote. I picked up a HVLP spray gun so I'll give that a shot.... no pun intended.
Thanks!
water born finishs
I routinely troll the auto finishing forums. Those guys shoot way more finish than we ever will. He's a quote from one I just picked up.
it's part of my reason for not liking epoxy based finishes.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pain...49-painting-urethane-over-lacquer-primer.html
Go down to where the guy talks about catalized and uncatalized finishes and different movements between them. Does it matter on a pool cue, who knows for sure. My Dad use to finish cabinets and piano's. He always told be very very carefull using multiple products on top of each other. They may bond ok initially, but you really don't know for sure how they will react down the road. Black Boar uses an epoxy to wet the surface. Blud and McDermott used an epoxy undercoat at one time. I've had both come back in the shop with really bad seperations. And I 've have them come back in beat to crap and the finish help up great. So take away what ever you can from that. Personally, I've tried all kinds of water based products, an I just can't get what I want out of them. Could be my technique. I've gone over to the UV dark side, but that's a tough
nut to eat cost wise. And the sealer is about a toxic as it gets.
Once away, not picking on anyones technique, just giving my personal experiences.
I routinely troll the auto finishing forums. Those guys shoot way more finish than we ever will. He's a quote from one I just picked up.
it's part of my reason for not liking epoxy based finishes.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pain...49-painting-urethane-over-lacquer-primer.html
Go down to where the guy talks about catalized and uncatalized finishes and different movements between them. Does it matter on a pool cue, who knows for sure. My Dad use to finish cabinets and piano's. He always told be very very carefull using multiple products on top of each other. They may bond ok initially, but you really don't know for sure how they will react down the road. Black Boar uses an epoxy to wet the surface. Blud and McDermott used an epoxy undercoat at one time. I've had both come back in the shop with really bad seperations. And I 've have them come back in beat to crap and the finish help up great. So take away what ever you can from that. Personally, I've tried all kinds of water based products, an I just can't get what I want out of them. Could be my technique. I've gone over to the UV dark side, but that's a tough
nut to eat cost wise. And the sealer is about a toxic as it gets.
Once away, not picking on anyones technique, just giving my personal experiences.
Steve, I believe McDermott used that clear " powdercoat ".
They put a charge on hanging woods and the coat sticks to them.
I've heard it's just about the easiest to peel off.
Viking was done the same way after they bought that expensive booth.
Ryan mentioned here his fear of even putting blue tape over them when he re-wraps them.
You really need to hurry up with your an-aerobic epoxy and finish invention. :grin-square:
^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^
Very well put and I for one am very grateful for the time everyone takes to make a positive contribution to this forum
so I did a little test............... I put a puddle of my epoxies and finishes on a white piece of paper and cooked it on the dash of my car in the Georgia sun............... they all yellowed except for Max 1618 epoxy and Solarez uv finish.......................... I have switched to these on my cues for the past 5 years.................... I now do a seal coat of Max 1618 and then the Solarez.................