I used to do the same thing, but instead of leather I simply used a paper towel. The reason, in my view, was you could feel the heat build-up through the paper towel. I always though it was a little safer. :smile:
Wax off Wax on, what wax do you use?
- Thread starter mortuarymike-nv
- Start date
I used to do the same thing, but instead of leather I simply used a paper towel. The reason, in my view, was you could feel the heat build-up through the paper towel. I always though it was a little safer. :smile:
I use Butchers Bowling Alley Wax on both the cue shaft and the cue butt. I've tried several car waxes but Butchers seems to do the best job of cleaning and making the shaft glide effortlessly. On a new shaft I'll "sand" the shaft with various grades of microgrit film and then run a dry strip of Magic Eraser over it. I'll then give the shaft 2 or 3 coats of the wax rubbing out well between coats. I use a shaft spinner to apply and buff the wax but you don't really need one - but it makes the job so much easier. I carry a small strip of Magic Eraser in my cue case and give my cue a quick clean after each pool session. I bought a can of Butchers on E-bay about 5 years ago and have barely put a dent in it.
You may very well be right Tramp, I do like to use heavy brown paper bags, but so hard to find. I have a very thin piece of leather that got at a upholstery shop and carry that with me.--Smitty
wax
I understand. at your age a slick shaft might give you a heart attack.:thud:
So far no one else has tried non petro based wax ? :scratchhead:
You guys are from the stone age.............................:help:
I have one sample I am going to send out Monday, no other brave souls out there.
I find this thread way to serious. we need wild women a bar and a pool table.:dance:
MMike
I understand. at your age a slick shaft might give you a heart attack.:thud:
So far no one else has tried non petro based wax ? :scratchhead:
You guys are from the stone age.............................:help:
I have one sample I am going to send out Monday, no other brave souls out there.
I find this thread way to serious. we need wild women a bar and a pool table.:dance:
MMike
I understand. at your age a slick shaft might give you a heart attack.:thud:
So far no one else has tried non petro based wax ? :scratchhead:
You guys are from the stone age.............................:help:
I have one sample I am going to send out Monday, no other brave souls out there.
I find this thread way to serious. we need wild women a bar and a pool table.:dance:
MMike
I'll try it! How do I get a sample?
For those with a lathe, Tiger Hard Wax is great.
http://www.tigerproducts.com/store/product.php?productid=16259
http://www.tigerproducts.com/store/product.php?productid=16259
I guess I am one of the few here who does not use wax either. Just a damp paper towel, if the shaft really needs cleaned a bit during play then burnish it with a dry paper towel.
I haven't used wax on my shafts for many years because after the initial slickness wears off the wood starts to feel a little sticky. But I've often wondered how pure bees wax would work.
address
pm me your address. I will send you some.
That's it guys no more free sample.
I don't sale wax, this is just a do it yourself , wonder how this will work on my cue kind of thread.
here is the link to the wax I am talking about
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ulti...e=UTF8&qid=1380456138&sr=8-4&keywords=car+wax
MMike
pm me your address. I will send you some.
That's it guys no more free sample.
I don't sale wax, this is just a do it yourself , wonder how this will work on my cue kind of thread.
here is the link to the wax I am talking about
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ulti...e=UTF8&qid=1380456138&sr=8-4&keywords=car+wax
MMike
I use 800 or 1200 wet / dry sandpaper. I sand lower nearer the joint and on the last few strokes, all the way up to the tip. I've tried wax but if my hand sweats a little, wax plays hell with it. Can't stand the glove, are you guys saying there is a type wax that doesn't make the cue drag when you sweat? I've never found any.
I stopped using wax about two years ago. It seemed like it would attract grime and get sticky pretty quickly. Now it's just the sealer for me. I burnish my shaft well every now and then and that seems to be all I need. My shaft feels nice and smooth for a long time between burnishings. I notice I burnish it a little more often in the (hot, humid) summer months.
Fatz
Fatz
You might want to give this wax a try . I think it might be a improvement over the petro based waxes.
Everyone who asked for a sample they have been mailed.................
Sorry that's my good deed for the decade.
I just wanted to know if anyone had tried a polymer wax. and wondered if they like it.
For the players that like least amount friction and tend to sand there shafts from time to time to keep them smooth, I suggest sealing and wax.
http://www.superiorcarcare.net/meguiars-ultimate-paste-wax.htm
MMike
Mike, I went out and bought some of this.
Put it on a junk shaft just to see.
So far feels very good.
Better than the "cue" wax that we all see sold.
The only question is how will it hold up?
I guess time will tell.
Thanks for the recommendation.
Has anyone else had the same results?
BTW I looked for butchers wax and only could find that at amazon.
I use pure carnuba wax, same stuff I use on my turned bowls. Rub it on a piece of brown paper, then burnish the shaft with the waxed paper. It takes a while to get it to transfer to the paper because it's so hard, and you really have to rub the shaft hard to get it warm enough to stick to the wood.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/0/2476/beall-carnauba-wax-512-x-2-x-58.aspx
You'll never get any kind of buildup with this method, but the shaft gets slick and stays slick for a long time, repelling water nicely. Most experienced wood turners know that no paste formulation makes as durable or smooth a coating as pure carnuba put on the wood with friction. It can endure a lot of handling without rubbing off because it's practically as hard as glass, but I carry the paper in my case and burnish the shaft every time I play.
My shaft looks practically new after a year, in spite of at least a few hours at the table every day. If I get any chalk at all sticking to the shaft (and not much will stick to pure carnuba), the Magic eraser gets it off in a flash and I'm back to just burnishing with the paper.
Edited to add:
These bars are big enough that you can cut them into several pieces and give them to your buddies for a buck and get yours free. A 1" piece of this stuff will last for years of daily burnishing. However, the paper bag (full of groceries) will cost you $100... and rising.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/0/2476/beall-carnauba-wax-512-x-2-x-58.aspx
You'll never get any kind of buildup with this method, but the shaft gets slick and stays slick for a long time, repelling water nicely. Most experienced wood turners know that no paste formulation makes as durable or smooth a coating as pure carnuba put on the wood with friction. It can endure a lot of handling without rubbing off because it's practically as hard as glass, but I carry the paper in my case and burnish the shaft every time I play.
My shaft looks practically new after a year, in spite of at least a few hours at the table every day. If I get any chalk at all sticking to the shaft (and not much will stick to pure carnuba), the Magic eraser gets it off in a flash and I'm back to just burnishing with the paper.
Edited to add:
These bars are big enough that you can cut them into several pieces and give them to your buddies for a buck and get yours free. A 1" piece of this stuff will last for years of daily burnishing. However, the paper bag (full of groceries) will cost you $100... and rising.
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i use this,
for shaft and butt as well.
So do I.
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Slim Limpy
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I used to work for Woodcraft, and I have to say that if it wasn't for the terrible management at the franchise I worked at (first Woodcraft franchise ever to go belly up), I'd still be there. The pay sucked, but I made plenty of dough on the side at the time with my repair business. Most of us were older retired or semi-retired guys like me, who looked at the job as a way to hang out with fellow woodworkers and get some nice wood and tools.
As employees, we got deep discounts on lots of stuff directly from the manufacturers. In many cases (like Jet tools), we got stuff directly from the manufacturer at 15% cheaper than the distributors themselves got it for (which frosted the balls of the owners of our store, lol), just so we'd tell the customers about the product from a first-hand experience perspective. I usually ended up spending all of my pay and then some, but I ended up with the kick-ass shop I always wanted when I was younger.:smile:
I'll have to give that wax a try. I do know that if a wax is very hard, it is likely to be a pure carnuba formulation. Many paste waxes with the name "carnuba" on the label have other softer waxes added. Any other waxes only add to the sticky feeling on the wood.
Stick carnuba is very hard to apply because it has such a high melting point. I'd be worried about using a traditional friction application on the lathe with a cue shaft because the high temps might warp the shaft, that's why I've been doing it my way. But if there is a paste formula out there that can get a good coat of pure carnuba on the surface (and you really don't want or need that much) without all the elbow grease, I think that would win me over. But I'll probably still carry the brown paper with the wax on it in my cue case as it is free and don't eat much.
Latham, NY?