Don't take me wrong........I'm just trying to learn something here also.
What A-joint do you build? Pictures of mine.
- Thread starter Graciocues
- Start date
Don't take me wrong........I'm just trying to learn something here also.
I didn't take it as negative. I can't remember the last time I was mad.
I was trying to answer your question.
I'm looking at the product information sheet for the Deldleet F3930.
With 5.0mils of clear wet, it dries at 2.0mils. The paint companies have product information sheets for all their products. I keep a copy for each clear.
I didn't like the dry time or cost of the F3930. I have no complaints about the performance.
It's funny, I'm trying something double the cost.
With 5.0mils of clear wet, it dries at 2.0mils. The paint companies have product information sheets for all their products. I keep a copy for each clear.
I didn't like the dry time or cost of the F3930. I have no complaints about the performance.
It's funny, I'm trying something double the cost.
Now I understand the 65% number......I thought you were talking about after it is dry on the cue. I can't measure the thickness of the wet finish after I spray a cue but I can the dry stuff and that's all that really matters to me. As long as I get a 2-3 thou thickness coat after the cue is dry and polished, I'm good to go.
I've read the tech sheets up one side and down the other. Very little of it means anything to me except that flashes in about 7 minutes....I don't have scuff if I'm respraying under 24 hours later....and I can polish it in about 1.5 to 2 hours after my final coat if I have too.
I understand the uv thing.......I've read about everything I've come across on the product. Lots of hype and sales pitching about how great it is but the plain facts on it are this...... It has very little proven time in the field.....that's the one scary fact that makes me shudder. It may very well be the next best thing to door knobs but I don't believe it's 100% sold itself yet.
now you have my interest.no scuffing before the second application sounds great.i am with you on the UV Dave.i have only seen a few guys out of hundreds have success with it and even then it wasn't actually any better than auto paint.
as far as a-joints,i have tried them all or at least all i could think of including the threaded dowel method(albeit not quite as many threads)in this thread.i like the old school big pin and big tenon bets for playability and hit.even over the solid 29" piece of Bubinga i am currently playing with.
hard to get better than Kersenbrock and Szamboti for hit and playability.
Madison Bob.
The tech sheet is important when your testing a new product. I've work with auto clears for over 15 years and I would never polish the any clear in a couple hours. If your getting a great finish polishing that quick your lucky. The painter certification classes I took when I was at the body shop always stated one important fact. What work in your shop doesn't always work in another.
The UV clear is not practical in the auto body world. It works great for small gobs. Like Pool cues. The new UV guns that dry the clear at the same time it's sprayed will change that. With that new development it will be practical for the body shop.
I believe cash cues are UV. Have you looked at their shine.
I had an accident with a cue sprayed with UV. I took it outside to look at it in the sun and dropped it on accident. The cue hit the hard on the rough cement outside my shop. It hardly scratched it.
This is a picture of where it hit. I was sold at that moment.
Attachments
Please
This thread could be good for lots of people. Talk about your joint and why you like it. Please!!!
I'm only going by what the tech sheet told me I could do. As I mentioned, "if I have too" which is very seldom. I usually let it sit over night.
You're the one that sidetracked your own thread!
UV vs. Automotive Clear
Hi,
For what it's worth, I went down the UV road 4 years a go and I am back to Concept and Omni automotive clear coats for my cues for the following reasons.
1). All of my attempts to buff the UV came out "ok" but I could not get the look I wanted with it. After all of my wet sanding, I buff with a three step system. When this is complete I use a big buffer with a 12" donet flanel wheel @ 1725 rpm polishing vertically. With by procedures, the shine & luster from automotive clear is so deep and wet looking that I would not wish to go in another direction. I have seen some good UV finishes, but non that compares.
I used the Van Technologies products and one another that name escapes me at this time. Maybe you have a new product that you could share. I have not closed my mind to UV but I need some motivation to go down that road again.
2). The hardness of the UV product is a great asset but I have noticed that on many exotics after an impact to the cue a finger nail looking pocket is sometimes revealed under the finish. I don't get this with automotive clear. After a pin point impact you will get a dent but it will not be visually amplified by the finger nail spot under the finish that is noticeable from across the room.
3.) With the products I use I can sand and buff after 24 hours depending on the temperature. I always wait 48 hours. Waiting 48 hours to wet sand and buff is not a problem for me. 3 weeks would not be acceptable to my business.
4.) As far as the health issues are concerned, you must always wear a mask when mixing or spraying any product, UV notwithstanding. The UV rays at the spectrum and intensity used in this process must not be taken lightly either. When using these lights you must were a welders shield ( just squinting your eyes is not enough) and make sure no eyes or skin is expose to even a little reflective light.
No matter what you do cues are going to get banged up and need refinishing if they have value. To fix the finger nail thing you have to go all the way down to the wood to repair. With dents, it is much easier to do the refinish job using a variety of techniques before re spraying.
As far as the shrinkage is concerned in the automotive finish I think I have got around that feature. I have found that if you use 4 coats of G5 epoxy reapplied every 4 minutes you will get monolithic chemical structure. Uniformly flat sanding the epoxy substrate with full sheets of sand paper to a level elevation grade will leave no thin spots or burn through and the clear will not shrink at the rings. The trick is to have enough thickness in the epoxy to sand out the high spots and still having enough material to give you a solid base coat. The epoxy sealer is the structure and the paint is the coating. I have cues out there that are not shrinking after 15 months when I started the 4 coats of epoxy coating step. For the record, I do not use metal rings, only wood and rod & tube materials ie. phenolic , ivory, Juma ect.
Rick Geschrey
Hi,
For what it's worth, I went down the UV road 4 years a go and I am back to Concept and Omni automotive clear coats for my cues for the following reasons.
1). All of my attempts to buff the UV came out "ok" but I could not get the look I wanted with it. After all of my wet sanding, I buff with a three step system. When this is complete I use a big buffer with a 12" donet flanel wheel @ 1725 rpm polishing vertically. With by procedures, the shine & luster from automotive clear is so deep and wet looking that I would not wish to go in another direction. I have seen some good UV finishes, but non that compares.
I used the Van Technologies products and one another that name escapes me at this time. Maybe you have a new product that you could share. I have not closed my mind to UV but I need some motivation to go down that road again.
2). The hardness of the UV product is a great asset but I have noticed that on many exotics after an impact to the cue a finger nail looking pocket is sometimes revealed under the finish. I don't get this with automotive clear. After a pin point impact you will get a dent but it will not be visually amplified by the finger nail spot under the finish that is noticeable from across the room.
3.) With the products I use I can sand and buff after 24 hours depending on the temperature. I always wait 48 hours. Waiting 48 hours to wet sand and buff is not a problem for me. 3 weeks would not be acceptable to my business.
4.) As far as the health issues are concerned, you must always wear a mask when mixing or spraying any product, UV notwithstanding. The UV rays at the spectrum and intensity used in this process must not be taken lightly either. When using these lights you must were a welders shield ( just squinting your eyes is not enough) and make sure no eyes or skin is expose to even a little reflective light.
No matter what you do cues are going to get banged up and need refinishing if they have value. To fix the finger nail thing you have to go all the way down to the wood to repair. With dents, it is much easier to do the refinish job using a variety of techniques before re spraying.
As far as the shrinkage is concerned in the automotive finish I think I have got around that feature. I have found that if you use 4 coats of G5 epoxy reapplied every 4 minutes you will get monolithic chemical structure. Uniformly flat sanding the epoxy substrate with full sheets of sand paper to a level elevation grade will leave no thin spots or burn through and the clear will not shrink at the rings. The trick is to have enough thickness in the epoxy to sand out the high spots and still having enough material to give you a solid base coat. The epoxy sealer is the structure and the paint is the coating. I have cues out there that are not shrinking after 15 months when I started the 4 coats of epoxy coating step. For the record, I do not use metal rings, only wood and rod & tube materials ie. phenolic , ivory, Juma ect.
Rick Geschrey
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Before spending the money on the UV setup I did lots of research. The light makes a big difference on how the clear dries. NM's are the key.
What the peak NM on your lights?
Hope to see more of those A-joints.
If no pics are available then maybe just a description would do.
This is a great forum to learn from the masters, innovators and the experienced and see what works for them. Putting the bickering aside
hope to see more:smile:
If no pics are available then maybe just a description would do.
This is a great forum to learn from the masters, innovators and the experienced and see what works for them. Putting the bickering aside
hope to see more:smile:
Who's bickering? Are you in the right thread?
Hi,
I bought my set up from American Ultra Violet. It's the same model that Brianna & Unique are selling with their booth. Is there a better light that does a different job or end result.
Thanks,
Rick G