For those who play Billiards, 3 cushion or otherwise, what brand & model Billiard table would you prefer to play on in your local Pool room or Billiard Club?
Back in the day, Soren Sogaard was THEE Billiard Table.
THOUGHTS?
Thanks for explaining that...I've always favored the vertical bolts at snooker...For a public room I'd stay away from Soren Sogaard unless the room is willing to regularly clean the table. In that case it would be just fine. The reason Sogaard was so popular was simply because they were basically the first European heated tables to hit the US market. I'm told their heating system is the best by a specialist 3C table mechanic.
Even though I could likely have gotten a better deal on a Gabriels I chose a Verhoeven Paramount for my personal table. The reason is simply personal preference for the T-Rail design rather than the rail bolts running vertically through the slate. I feel its a stronger design and how Verhoeven designs their rail, its extra strong. Two staggered rows of bolts.
(There's drawbacks with both designs but if you're aware of them they can be addressed. With the T-Rail you have to make sure the rail is all the way down on the slate. Since there's no clamp load vertically the rail could be high. With the old Brunswick T-Rails the corners were the most problematic. A simple clamp or a heavy man sitting on the corner while the bolts were tightened usually solved the problem.
With the other design - Bolts running vertically you have to make sure the rail is straight. They can be bowed, even when new. Snug the rail up then give it a hip check to move it in or a long bar clamp. Hip checks usually work though. Just make sure the rail is snug enough to stay in place after the check and not so snug it can't move.)
As far as the heating systems go, I've never seen the Sogaard but the Verhoeven uses 3 heating boxes containing a wire criss-crossed. The boxes are somewhat fragile but once installed all is good. No worries at that point. The only strange thing is they don't heat well within an inch or so from the rail. Not an issue, just strange.
The Gabriels uses a some sort of plastic sheet that looks like a circuit board that slides under each slate. They work just fine. The only thing issue wise is all Gabriel tables are shipped 220V so you need either a 220 power supply or a decent transformer. They're not very expensive. Just another thing to get squared away. Also note what was said on the Carom Forum. Be sure to have a dedicated circuit. Nothing else on that line.
Chevillotte I don't know much about although I played on Mazin's Europa model and just loved how he had it set up. What I don't like is the rail top is a couple millimeters higher than the cushion. Verhoeven does the same thing but the rail is wood rather than laminate. I think it promotes dings in shaft. So far its not a problem for me on my table. Gabriel and Sogaard the top is even with the cushion.
STEVE, you thinking to get one?hope that light still serves you well
guess im like shortbusruss, i cant helpmyself
i own a soren, its the simplest table to assemble
simplest to change cloth
its 10ft heated super royal model, but i dont use the heater, no need
the heater is 1 piece of wood, with what im guessing is wire underneath with styrophom or some other material covering the heating element underneath
i had a gabriels, and tried my hand at doing cloth changes,
but since they dont want to pay enough, i said forget it,you cannot service these tables without atleast 3 people
plus the older gabriels with diamond wood rails are such a pain in the ass, you have to lift the entire rail and skirts off and rotate that big thing at once, you cant get to the skirts while the rails are on the table
the gabriels heating can sag in places, since its a thin plastic sheet, held up by some metal bars,
but can be helped with cardboard under
soren you can get to the skirts easy and not have to take off the rails with it
the soren is the easiest table to assemble on the planet, minus the 4 or so guys you need to lift the 500 plus lb slates,
he said it right, its all up to what you like to look at and how much you got to spend
if i had my choice, id get a SAM regenta, classic 6leg solid wood table, 9ft unheated (4000 euros)
so no one would mistake me for a 3c player
sam has the best priced carom tables of top quality,
everything else is just way over priced, soren included,
i got my soren when i traded away that gabriels for it
gabriels is ugly and over priced, all you see everywhere is black table blue cloth
soren is nice
verhoeven is nice, just over priced and they "barrowed" the design from soren, as ms marie louise, owner of soren sogaard, told me the verhoeven family used to tour thier factory before going into business,
sam looks kool, different, and is thousands cheaper than any 10ft heated carom at 5500 euros
chevillotte is super priced if you buy from them direct, 13k, no thanks
breton looks nice, but costly,min same thing
buy whatever you can afford, it wont make a difference at all, even if your a pro
stop spending 10k on carom tables, and mayb carom would come back even better than it already is in the usa
Why are you saying the Soren tables don't,need to be heated?
Ours lost the heater and I'm thinking of replacing it. Though that takes a lot of effort and if it's unnecessary I would not do so.
Thanks
Good question, why does any billiard need heating
I just dont know, or need it
If you need electricity running through your table to enjoy it, its just a tad absurd imo
Cant speak for the professional side, but for recreational, like most of us, just dont get it
Ball rolls faster, so?
Why are you saying the Soren tables don't,need to be heated?
Ours lost the heater and I'm thinking of replacing it. Though that takes a lot of effort and if it's unnecessary I would not do so.
Thanks
Thanks for explaining that...I've always favored the vertical bolts at snooker...
...the T-rail set requires steel block cushions to be acceptable in world class tournaments.
A old billiard mechanic told me years ago that a combination of the two systems would
be ideal because they both have strengths and weaknesses..
For those who play Billiards, 3 cushion or otherwise, what brand & model Billiard table would you prefer to play on in your local Pool room or Billiard Club?
Back in the day, Soren Sogaard was THEE Billiard Table.
THOUGHTS?
Heated tables stay dry....so rails don't bank short and quick in humid conditions.
....you also get consistency of speed....a cold table is slower than a warm one.
I once walked into a room at 9:00 AM.....just as it was opening...it was winter in Toronto. They used to turn the heat completely off at night...it was cold.
One of the gamblers walked in....I got him to the furthest table from the front near a window...
...gave him five tries to hit 9 rails...$50 a whack....he lost $300...
...now we're back at the front...the heat is starting to work..and we're near the kitchen
which is being fired up......told him..."I'll take the same bet...won another $300...:grin:
He said "Thanks for the coffee, it's pretty good, but it sure aint worth $600.
I suspect for a lot of us it is whatever is in driving distance. I'm very happy with the Gabriels table and the recently added Verhoeven table that we have in our Sr. center. But I'm not nearly a good enough, or experienced, a player to have my opinion count.
You are a devious man my friend! I was struggling playing one pocket on a table in the summertime. Turned out the old cooling system ran 24-7 in the summer and the air blew well over one set of side rails and blasted directly on the side rails of the other side. The side rails banked way different than each other and the end rails played different on one end of each one than the other end played. Probably ten or fifteen degrees difference in the coldest and warmest parts of the cushions. Gaff tables are fun. Once you learn the tricks of the table you share them with everyone that plays on that table with you of course! :grin-devilish:
Hu