What causes cue ball to jump/skid?

Fatboy said:
I was playing a top pro last night 1P 10-4 and it made a huge difference in th score there were so many skids-I suppose If you play long enough it evens out. It cost both of us games-because I only needed 4 If he was shooting to make a ball an he missed due to a skid, I could put 4 balls together easy. It probably favored me.
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Sylver was giving you 10-4? Who won?
 
shayla said:
... But, I guess if the balls are mostly clean, then any amount of chalk or dirt could really impact the way they play. I guess since the balls at the pool hall are all dirty, it could just cancel each other out? ...
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I've seen newly-cleaned cue balls that seemed to be magnets for chalk spots. After a dozen shots, there would be a dozen big spots on the cue ball. If someone could figure out a product or method for cleaning the cue ball that would repel chalk (without causing miscues), I'd buy a case.

Here is a way to see skids on purpose: Set up a short nearly straight-in shot into the side pocket. Practice with plain follow a couple of times to follow nearly straight forward and bounce off the cushion to the middle of the table.

Now, chalk the object ball. You can do this by breathing on it to get the surface a little damp, rub your finger down into the chalk, and then roll your fingerprint onto the ball. Place the chalked spot where the cue ball will hit it when playing the plain follow shot. Note how badly the cue ball sometimes behaves.

When you get a skid, inspect the chalked spot. I think you will see a scuff mark something like a miscue on it. Carefully clean and polish the object ball after this abuse.
 
I'm dying laughing at all these answers I've read so far. Here's the correct answer if anyone's interested.

A: Cue ball is rolling forward, like a gear turning in rotation.
B: Object ball is stationary, meaning not turning at all.
C: Friction is what takes place when the cue ball first comes into contact with the object ball.
D: What happens is that you have one moving object trying to move a stationary object.
E: Resistance is when the cue ball makes contact with the object ball, and before the object ball can move from it's stationary position the cue ball surface....spining/rolling like a gear at a downward angle at the point of contact on the object ball encounters friction/grip/grab/hold on...or what ever you want to call it...and actually tries to climb up onto the object ball for a split second before that friction is broken, and in doing so that friction is enough to cause the cue ball to hang onto the object ball and alter the course of the intended shot.

Some of the answers given are semi correct, Russ was right in saying that if you add a little side spin to the cue ball it'll break that friction grab...well, that's right because now the cue ball is not spinning in a straight forward spin which is what it has to be doing in order to compound that friction collision, so alter the straight forward spin is one answer.

Fatboy is kind of right as well, but not for what he thinks. Simonis has not changed it's 860 10% nylon 90% weave in the last 20 years or so. But when it first came out it was an upgrade to 760 Simonies being 30%nylon 70% wool it just had thicker threads so to speak, making it a thicker 177 threads per square inch cloth over the 177 threads per square inch 760.

But, the second part of friction is the spot in the cloth the object ball is sitting. In order to create that environment for the cue ball to jump up on the object ball...the object ball is to be able to sit where it's at for that split second, and that's what dirty cloth can do...add friction to the ball to help cause it to want to sit where it's at and not want to move...until force moves the ball.

Dirty surface of the balls adds friction, and believe it or not, over waxing or the wrong wax can cause that same cling/friction to happen.

Speed plays a major role in that friction cling as well, because a cue ball traveling to fast...or to slow is not going to create that perfect cling on the object ball.

Angle of cut has a lot to do with friction as well, because the cling/grab/jump of the cue ball only can happen when it's a glancing contact. Full contact is impacted more by the full weight of the cue ball and therefore harder for the cling to take hold on the object ball enough to lift the cue ball off the surface of the bed cloth.

So, one of the most key ingredients to get that little cling/jump/grab to happen....is the straight roll of the cue ball, at the perfect angle of cut...and you have missed your shot.

Avoid that from happening by simply altering the natural roll of the cue ball by playing any English on the cue ball that will offset it's natural roll/spin and you can't have cling.

NO cling can happen with draw or side spin on the cue ball, provided the cue ball is still spinning in a back-wards/off center rotation at the moment it comes into contact with the object ball.

Top/follow English WILL enhance the cling provided the angle and speed of the cue ball is a match to enhance the cling.

Glen
 
A really cool shot that shows it off is to put a ball on the head spot and freeze another ball behind it. You can't normally cut the rear ball into either corner.

Just hold it and grind the chalk cube into it near where it touches the spotted ball. Now use the cue ball and hit it as full as possible (and fairly soft) with maximum inside spin. It cuts right in. You can even throw it to the thin side of the pocket(!) with enough crud on the OB. I didn't believe this one until I made it myself.
 
realkingcobra said:
I'm dying laughing at all these answers I've read so far. Here's the correct answer if anyone's interested.

A: Cue ball is rolling forward, like a gear turning in rotation.
B: Object ball is stationary, meaning not turning at all.
C: Friction is what takes place when the cue ball first comes into contact with the object ball.
D: What happens is that you have one moving object trying to move a stationary object.
E: Resistance is when the cue ball makes contact with the object ball, and before the object ball can move from it's stationary position the cue ball surface....spining/rolling like a gear at a downward angle at the point of contact on the object ball encounters friction/grip/grab/hold on...or what ever you want to call it...and actually tries to climb up onto the object ball for a split second before that friction is broken, and in doing so that friction is enough to cause the cue ball to hang onto the object ball and alter the course of the intended shot.

Some of the answers given are semi correct, Russ was right in saying that if you add a little side spin to the cue ball it'll break that friction grab...well, that's right because now the cue ball is not spinning in a straight forward spin which is what it has to be doing in order to compound that friction collision, so alter the straight forward spin is one answer.

Fatboy is kind of right as well, but not for what he thinks. Simonis has not changed it's 860 10% nylon 90% weave in the last 20 years or so. But when it first came out it was an upgrade to 760 Simonies being 30%nylon 70% wool it just had thicker threads so to speak, making it a thicker 177 threads per square inch cloth over the 177 threads per square inch 760.

But, the second part of friction is the spot in the cloth the object ball is sitting. In order to create that environment for the cue ball to jump up on the object ball...the object ball is to be able to sit where it's at for that split second, and that's what dirty cloth can do...add friction to the ball to help cause it to want to sit where it's at and not want to move...until force moves the ball.

Dirty surface of the balls adds friction, and believe it or not, over waxing or the wrong wax can cause that same cling/friction to happen.

Speed plays a major role in that friction cling as well, because a cue ball traveling to fast...or to slow is not going to create that perfect cling on the object ball.

Angle of cut has a lot to do with friction as well, because the cling/grab/jump of the cue ball only can happen when it's a glancing contact. Full contact is impacted more by the full weight of the cue ball and therefore harder for the cling to take hold on the object ball enough to lift the cue ball off the surface of the bed cloth.

So, one of the most key ingredients to get that little cling/jump/grab to happen....is the straight roll of the cue ball, at the perfect angle of cut...and you have missed your shot.

Avoid that from happening by simply altering the natural roll of the cue ball by playing any English on the cue ball that will offset it's natural roll/spin and you can't have cling.

NO cling can happen with draw or side spin on the cue ball, provided the cue ball is still spinning in a back-wards/off center rotation at the moment it comes into contact with the object ball.

Top/follow English WILL enhance the cling provided the angle and speed of the cue ball is a match to enhance the cling.

Glen
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You post gives a good, accurate and easy to understand description of what happens. IMO.. The "dying laughing" part is pretty arrogant but the desription of what happens is helpful and added to the quality of the thread.
 
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