What cue would you recommend for a true beginner?

A house cue.

Seriously, for a true beginner I would use house cues until I at least had an idea what weight I preferred. After that, for the very first cue I really wouldn't worry about what maker etc., I wouldn't spend more than $100. This is mainly because most people probably don't stay with their first cue for very long so I wouldn't put much money into it. After you're in the game for a while you will probably upgrade into a good production cue, a low deflection shaft, or eventually a custom. If you pay $200 - $300 for a lower end production cue right off the bat, you will probably take a hit of at least $100 when you got to sell it to upgrade (and the hassle of selling it). So why invest that money to begin with? If you only pay $100 or less for your first one, it will be worth at least something to someone, so you're out less money that way.

For the first cue for a beginner, as long as it's straight and you like the weight, you're good to go. A real beginner doesn't really know what they like or don't like in a cue, so why waste a lot of money? The main benefit of a personal cue for a true beginner is having the same stick every time you play. That's the big benefit over using house cues, having the same feel and being familiar with your equipment every time you go to play.

Those are my thoughts.
 
I agreed with DogsPlayingPool: if you're a true beginner to snooker and/or pool, start with house cues. If you find a particular house cue that you really like, ask if the pool hall will put it behind the counter of you. Or heck, maybe you can buy the cue from them.

Are you going to be playing snooker on a 5 x 10 or a 6 x 12? How regularly do you expect to play snooker?

Pooldawg.com has Riley snooker cues, which are relatively inexpensive, but I don't know how the hit feels:
http://billiards.pooldawg.com/search#w=snooker cue&asug=snooker


You may have already used Search to find other threads on the subject. Here are a few threads that may be of use:

"playing differences regular cue vs. snooker cue"
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=184578

"Looking forward to a snooker cue"
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=140650

"snooker cue dealers"
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=165570

"Want to start playing snooker"
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=124550

You can contact user ADR147, who is a cue dealer and regular poster on The Snooker Forum (http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board/forum.php). Wity introduced him to the AzB forum in this post:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=166514

If you're willing and ready to spend more than $100, you might want to check out Omin cues; user Monto P2 is a distributor:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=174092&highlight=omin+snooker

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=180383

You'll find info about snooker cues at Mike Wooldridge's site:
http://www.handmadecues.com/
 
and those recommending pool cues for snooker :rolleyes:


Oh yeah, and those going on about low throw shafts. Biggest joke ever invented as all cues will produce throw to varying degrees. The only advantage of these low throw laminated chopsticks is that they play pretty much the same. A snooker cue will by it's tip size alone produce less throw than any pool cue.

You learn to compensate for throw (most of us subconsiously) thus the main reason players stick with one cue.
 
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I'd go with a players. They are inexpensive, have a maple shaft, and play very good for the money. Get one on line and pay less than $100 for it.

Best bang for the buck on the low end of the scale IMO


:cool:
 
Players ????? Another pool cue

Actually reading the thread on TSF Big Arm states he's buying a 10foot brunswick table and as far as i know those tables are pretty much made for pool ball sized balls at 2.25" not the 2 1/16th as used in snooker so maybe a pool cue would be ok.

Assuming you get 2 1/16th balls your best to get a decent proper snooker cue. Go for a pretty much standard spec 9mm to 9.7mm 57-58" 3/4 around 17 to 18.5 oz(a one piece will set you back more in postage and the difference in feel is negligable) Go for a hand spliced one, machine spliced ones usually have 2nd rate shafts as cuemakers keep their better shafts for the handmade cues. New or 2nd hand does not really matter as long as its not really old (billiards taper-whippy) and in decent nick. Steer away from chinese made tat and make sure it's real ebony (gaboon or macasaur )not ebonised (painted) or varnished (sticky and hides poor craftmanship)

As one or two have already said Craftsman cues / Mastercraft / omin / mastercue / are usually all well made proper cues that will last you a lifetime and serve you as well as any of the more expensive ones sold to posers and muppets who think the badge will improve their game.
 
Wity said:
and those recommending pool cues for snooker :rolleyes:


Oh yeah, and those going on about low throw shafts. Biggest joke ever invented as all cues will produce throw to varying degrees. The only advantage of these low throw laminated chopsticks is that they play pretty much the same. A snooker cue will by it's tip size alone produce less throw than any pool cue.

You learn to compensate for throw (most of us subconsiously) thus the main reason players stick with one cue.
Click to expand...

just throw a predator z shaft on it. there now my recommendation doesn't sound like i didn't notice this was the snooker forum
 
IMO, a $50 - $100 sneakie pete or plain jane would do most players fine if playing was the only thing required. Get some kind of a hard case to protect the shaft from being dented. A shaft can be dented through most soft cases. Get a towel, an ultimate tip tool, Qclean, Qsmooth and Cuewax.

The main thing I would do before picking my first cue if I had to do it again would be to try many weights of house cues first from 17 - 21. It will be the most important choice in the first cue. Clean up their tips with a tip tool and really get a feel for which cue gives you the best balance of ease of power and control over the amount of power you are using. The short cut is most people like 18 - 20, in the end.

The most important thing this cue will be for you is it will be the same hit, feel, weight, etc everytime you play. In addition, it will be in mint condition because you will keep it that way.

Also, don't be afraid to try the whole selection of tips from Elkmaster to Moori Hard. Only a couple will be to your liking and it will be hard to guess which ones. You will know, when you find the right one.

After a few years like that, you will have made enough money gambling to buy what ever you want.


BTW, if you mean true beginner like played a couple times, . . . .house cue. If you mean has played a bit, wants to get better, joined league, etc, the above advice is good.
 
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Thanks for the information. I already have a decent pool cue, just don't really understand the differences. Rethunk - those links are helpful.
 
poolplayer2093 said:
just throw a predator z shaft on it. there now my recommendation doesn't sound like i didn't notice this was the snooker forum
Click to expand...

I use a 'Z' shaft for snooker,but i had it shaved down a little more.
It must be ok 'cause a lot of people borrow it.It has a great taper for
snooker.
Put it on a wood to wood joint...metal joints and snooker don't get it
...at least for me....you need more power at snooker...that's why
BK's are wood to wood.

just my oppinion,but i do have some empirical evidence
 
Big Arm said:
Thanks for the information. I already have a decent pool cue, just don't really understand the differences. Rethunk - those links are helpful.
Click to expand...

Your typical US pool cue is a two piece with a large tip around 12mm or so and weighing around 18 to 20 oz has a maple shaft and a butt with fancy inlays.The finish on them is often varnish.

A typical Snooker cue is either a one piece or a 3/4. Two piece cues have become a part of history no one bothers with them nowadays. Many swear that a one piece gives you a better feedback over a 3/4 jointed cue but theres hardly any difference really.( big cue case big willy syndrome :D)
Joints are almost all brass to brass as are the ferrules. Wood to wood joints which were popular in two piece cues are again almost extint, brass being far more hardwearing and thus stable. (I prefer a one piece purly because thers no joint that could possibly go wrong)

The one piece is one usually ash (maple, pearwood, hornbeam, hickory and a few other types have been used over the years but the majority prefer ash.Spliced to the base are four pieces of ebony (rosewoods also used but ebony accounts for the vast majority) It's having that full length of ash that many one piece fans swear gives them the better feedback.
Your 3/4 can be made as a one piece then cut at 3/4 or as a solid ebony but joined to a 3/4 length spliced shaft. Further decorative splices in the butt are optional.

Tips on a snooker cue generally vary from 8.5mm to 10mm to suit the 2+ 1/16th sized balls below 8.5mm and the cues invariably used as a uk pool cue where the balls are smaller still and playing with side is more common.
The taper of a snooker cue is effectively a straight throughout the length taper unlike most pool cues and old english billiards cues where the taper starts some 7" or thereabouts from the tip. Snooker players rarely use a closed bridge so an even length piece does not matter.
The weight of a snooker cue can vary considerably from as low as 14 oz and up to 22 or even more as its purely down to personal preference but 17-18 oz is typical as is a balance point around 16-18" as measured from the butt. (Added weights if any are usually lead and not adjustable as they are place in the butt and or the shaft in a jointed cue.
The flat part is a throwback to the mace left there as a traditional thing now as its only purpose is for somewhere for the cuemaker to put his badge.

Premium Ash shafts can be but are not always better than any other but fetch a premium price as they are cosmetically more appealing with even v's alone the one side (usually the top / badge up side) which many use to sight by and have two sides of tight straight grain. Again its a personal thing but i love to see tight straight grain to me i think if its evenly grained then it's evenly dense. wild grain especially with knots in it just say cheap wood cheap made.

The finish of a snooker cue is second only to the type of tip your using imo although most cuemakers will say the most important thing is the shaft.
Proper cues are oiled (raw linseed oil historically) some are the finished with beeswax others left just oiled.

Nothing is more comfortable, or more natural than a properly oiled cue and in my book anything else is is inferior. looked after and used with clean hands you'll never need any poncy whacko jacko gloves or talc.

Tips ? well thats another story.
 
Wity,

That was very helpful. Since I need to finish the ceiling in the building I am putting the table in and pay for the table, I am researching this area. I will need to save up money for a decent cue. What about house cues? Just use the pool cues I have or are there inexpensive house cues that are recommended. Don't want to spend too much for house cues!
 
Big Arm said:
that won't break the bank?
Click to expand...


I would buy a cheap Sneaky Pete, something like an Action or any of the other imports that are in the $60 price range. Then I would put a decent tip and a good ferrule on the cue, for a tip I would recommend a Medium layered. Last you may want to have shaft re-tappered, most of these cues have a very large shaft diameter, 13 mm 13.5mm.

With everything above done you will most likely spend around $120, but you will have a nice shooting cue for little money. When you decide to move up to a bigger purchase you can use this cue for your break cue.

There is really no need to spend a great deal of money.

JIMO
 
If your going to be playing with 2 1/4" american snooker balls then your going to be more at home with a pool cue but if you go for 2 1/16th snooker balls and this Brunswick table your having presents no problem with 2 1/16th go for a snooker cue. I've really no idea if a problem exists i suppose it might if the height of the rails is higher than a snooker table as balls might bounce off weirdly.

Wouldn't hurt to buy a 2nd hand cheap chinese snooker cue off ebay as long as the specs pretty standard sand it down and oil it properly, you may not have the best ash and it'd probably be unevenly spliced cheap rosewood or worse still have painted on splices but getting an ace finish on it isn't difficult. It is after all the spec, the smaller tip, the taper, and the finish that you want to try out.
 
Underclocked said:
Very good snooker can be played with a 13mm tip. :grin:
Click to expand...

I've seen a lot of good snooker played witha 13mm.
But they would have played better with a snooker cue.
I've posted before that you can hit a green from 80 yards
with a 4 iron but a pitching wedge will get the cash.
You need the right tool for the job.

Back in the 80's Billy Johnson played Kirk Stevens 5x10 snooker.
At that time Kirk still had a high ranking in the WPBSA.
At $6,000 down,Billy offered to keep playing and jack the bet
if they could switch cues.
Stevens wisely declined.

ps i'll always call him Billy...i don't know Wade Crane that well
 
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