What do you use to clean the chalk off of shafts

shewmake

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a newer cue and from where the builder sanded off the finish so it would be smooth and slide easy on your bridge hand it is starting to turn blue in a few spots. My question is what is the best and easiest thing to use to clean the shaft up.

Thanks Jacob
 
I have a newer cue and from where the builder sanded off the finish so it would be smooth and slide easy on your bridge hand it is starting to turn blue in a few spots. My question is what is the best and easiest thing to use to clean the shaft up.

Thanks Jacob

Mr Clean Magic Eraser pad. Dampen it slightly and scrub the shaft hard. It is amazing. Wipe dry immediately if any excess dampness remains.

Do NOT use wetness near the ferrule and shaft. Use the dry Magic Eraser on the ferrule first.
 
Mr Clean Magic Eraser pad. Dampen it slightly and scrub the shaft hard. It is amazing. Wipe dry immediately if any excess dampness remains.

Do NOT use wetness near the ferrule and shaft. Use the dry Magic Eraser on the ferrule first.

Don't use water.
Use mineral spirits at the worst.
Denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner are better.
BUT, WEAR LATEX GLOVES AND respirator ( not dust mask ).
 
Don't use water.
Use mineral spirits at the worst.
Denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner are better.
BUT, WEAR LATEX GLOVES AND respirator ( not dust mask ).

Actually hot water(soak paper towel then ring it out) followed by a dry towel is best, assuming the shaft it sealed. Solvents will defeat the sealer and you'll have more problems.


The BEST thing to do is accept that playing with your cue is going to discolor the shaft.

Magic eraser is great, but it is an abrasive(although very mild). It works great prior to a reseal.
 
Actually hot water(soak paper towel then ring it out) followed by a dry towel is best, assuming the shaft it sealed. Solvents will defeat the sealer and you'll have more problems.


The BEST thing to do is accept that playing with your cue is going to discolor the shaft.

Magic eraser is great, but it is an abrasive(although very mild). It works great prior to a reseal.

Universal sanding sealer's cheap.

I don't let water come near my shafts unless there's a ding needing a fix.
 
Universal sanding sealer's cheap.

I don't let water come near my shafts unless there's a ding needing a fix.

This is a player Joey and the best thing is a quick wipe with a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth. If it is sealed it won't matter.
 
I don't think the shaft is sealed it looks like he sealed it then then smoothed the sealer off where you would stroke it.
 
I don't think the shaft is sealed it looks like he sealed it then then smoothed the sealer off where you would stroke it.

I think you are referring to the finish. Shaft sealer soaks into the wood and you can't feel it. The finish is a clear coat of paint or lacquer that covers the cue and the bottom part of the shaft.

Please post pictures of the cue if you want us to be sure.
 
With a little due diligence you can keep your cue white as new. 1.) Before you play every night, go wash your hands, then shake them off and dry them with a paper towel. Now you have a damp towel, also grab a dry towel. Then go clean the shaft with the wet one then dry it off with the dry one. 2.) Also do the above before you put it away at night. 3.) If you are getting a blue ring around the ferule, learn how to chalk. The chalk should not come in contact with anything but the tip. It should be painted on from the center outwards. You should never "drill" through the center of the chalk cube. 3.) If you nutice while playing your hands are turning blue from chald dust, do step one again. 4.) before anyone else touches your shaft, make them wash thier hands. 5.) before putting the shaft away at night clean off the tip. I usually just wipe it off with one of the paper towels i use in step two. 5.) if you do all this and it still darkens, go buy some white chalk. It will look like someone is drawing lines all over your table. But your stick wont turn blue. It will still get dirty so you still have to do all the above, you just wont have to deal with the blue. i do this every night i play and my cue still looks brand new and the stick is ten years old. And i play league six nights a week.

Never use alcohol, mineral spirits or laquer thinner on a stick. There were few laminated cues out there that the alcohol was breaking down the glue and delaminating the shafts. Also these will destroy the sealer on the shaft alowing the raw wood to absorb moisture and possibly warp.
 
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I think you are referring to the finish. Shaft sealer soaks into the wood and you can't feel it. The finish is a clear coat of paint or lacquer that covers the cue and the bottom part of the shaft.

Please post pictures of the cue if you want us to be sure.

you are right it is the clear coat he sanded off if I get time today I will post some pictures
 
I think you are referring to the finish. Shaft sealer soaks into the wood and you can't feel it. The finish is a clear coat of paint or lacquer that covers the cue and the bottom part of the shaft.

Please post pictures of the cue if you want us to be sure.

Actualy, it could be sealer. When I clean a shaft for a customer, and i have to be "exra vigorous" i usually apply speed sealer on it if it is down to raw wood, then go back over it with 800 then 1000, 1500, 2000, and 3000 till its like glass then i wax and polish. This way i can lock out moisture, and dont have people getting warped shafts because of something i did

Many people think after i am done that i have clear coated thier shafts or put a finish on it. Most of the time you cantell where the finish stops and the cleaning starts.
 
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Like Joey, I use a magic eraser with denatured alcohol. Never delaminated a shaft nor damaged wood with it. In fact, denatured alcohol & acetone are the only solvents in my shop. Alcohol will dissolve shellac, but not much else.
 
You CAN use regular rubbing alcohol. However,the regular has 30% water in it.

There is a better grade of rubbing alcohol that is only 9% water. This is better.

Denatured alcohol is only 1% water. With it you aren't as likely to raise the grain,and create more work for yourself by having to use sandpaper or some other abrasive to smooth the surface back out.

If used correctly,the Eraser and rubbing alcohol will remove 90% or more of small dents/dings. This helps reduce the amount of sanding needed to return the surface to glass-smooth.

In cases where my customers take care of the shafts,I go from the Eraser directly to 600 sandpaper. However,most of the shafts I work on usually start with light use of 400. It's here that you can use the Eraser with the lathe OFF,and go with the grain and a little more pressure than you think,and REALLY clean the crap out of the grain.

I can speak from experience with my own shafts before I really knew what I was doing,but the normal rubbing alcohol can raise the grain enough to make it hard to get the ferrule seam as flat as it was when it was made. Tommy D.
 
Spittle and a smooth cloth. Once per hour. After a couple of weeks sealing with carnauba wax..nothing else.


Als Einstein Examina abnahm, fragte ihn einmal ein Student: "Sie stellen in diesem Semester ja genau die gleichen Fragen wie beim letzten Mal." Darauf Einstein: "Das ist wahr. Nur die Antworten sind diesmal anders."
 
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