What glue for tips and ferrule are you using?

CroweCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I checked the post and i really didn't find anything recent. what glues are you guys using today for tips and ferrules? i know with the way chemicals and tech. changes from year to year, just wanted to know what is working really well for the cue gods lol.

thanks all.
 
I checked the post and i really didn't find anything recent. what glues are you guys using today for tips and ferrules? i know with the way chemicals and tech. changes from year to year, just wanted to know what is working really well for the cue gods lol.

thanks all.
loctite gel for tips and epoxy for ferrules/
 
When to buy new CA

I don't put many tips on...so a small Loctite CA container can last me a year or more. How do I decide its time to buy new CA?

History: At one point I had a tip pop off a customer's cue. I remembered the CA looked a but thicker than usual when I used it. I bought some new CA and put another tip on same cue, no problem. I attributed the problem to old CA.

So...is it best to look for thickening or just throw out and buy new every year? I store the CA in a zip lock bag in a dark cool cabinet in the house to help the shelf life.

Cheers
 
I use the loctite ultragel for tips and epoxy for ferrules.

When to replace the gel?? I put on enough tips that a container only lasts a month or so but I would not keep it for more than 2 month.
 
thanks for the info guys. big big help. the 5min epoxy you speak of, would an example of this be Z-poxy glue?
 
Hi,
Tough tips CA from cue components for tips and maxi cure extra thick CA from cue components for ferrules
 
I checked the post and i really didn't find anything recent. what glues are you guys using today for tips and ferrules? i know with the way chemicals and tech. changes from year to year, just wanted to know what is working really well for the cue gods lol.

thanks all.
I have been using the Gorilla Super Glue impact formula lately. To be honest, except for maybe phenolic tips, I never had a problem with tips coming off ever, even way back when we all used was Tweetens. Pretty much all the super glue gels work fine. The demands of gluing on a cue tip on are not very high.
For ferrules, I use standard dry epoxy. I don't like 5 minute epoxy for anything on a cue.
 
I use loctite 454 for tips:
400.jpg



This is the 2 part epoxy I use for ferrules. (or a similar epoxy)
17a4eb8f-f064-4af5-9195-0645201f1f40_300.jpg


I'm not a pro cuemaker or repairman. I just do tips and ferrules for friends and family. I am thinking about cutting my teeth on a dufferin conversion just to see if I can do it, but I know what that can lead to. All my disposable cash would be disposed of very quickly if I take on the cuemaking hobby.;),
Tom
 
epoxy

thanks for the info guys. big big help. the 5min epoxy you speak of, would an example of this be Z-poxy glue?

5 min epoxy different brands devcon, gorilla glue, loc tite.
Remember 5 min epoxy means you can work with the glue for 5 min.
It doesnt mean its dry and ready to go in 5 min.
MMike
 
5 min epoxy different brands devcon, gorilla glue, loc tite.
Remember 5 min epoxy means you can work with the glue for 5 min.
It doesnt mean its dry and ready to go in 5 min.
MMike
I would not be using 5 minute epoxy that has been sitting for 5 minutes. You have to use it while it is in it's most liquid state. Once it even begins to thicken a large percent of it's ability to adhere is gone. I took a seminar put on by West on epoxy. They pretty much classified 5 minute for temporary bonds. One thing they really emphasized was the mixing.

When it says to mix for one minute that is how much you should mix it. I think a lot of guys give it a few swirls for like 10 seconds and think it is done. To get the complete chemical reaction you need to mix it like crazy and use it as quickly as possible.

The big problem with 5 minute epoxy for any kind of wood working is you can't do a wet-out, it sets up too quickly. You need a good wet-out for a good complete bridge between the materials. It needs to soak into each piece to have a good integrated bond. As far as building cues, what is the hurry? Use an epoxy that gives you a nice open work time for wetting out the work and gives you a bond you can trust.
Normally I would end by saying "Just my opinion", but actually it is the opinion of every technical support person or expert on epoxy I have ever spoken to.
 
Hi,

I have been using west system G5 for non threaded ferrules with filed v grooves keyways on the tenon for over 10 years and have not had one failure come back to me from the repair business or on any of my cues.

I have a large repair work business and I have estimated that I have done somewhere around 500 ferrules. I believe the v groove keyways and the 5 minute is the best way for me because of this 100% positive track record.

JMO,

Rick
 
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For a repair, time is sometimes a little too short wait for 8 hours or more as epoxy cures. If 5 minute epoxy can bond non porous material like steel, wood seems a no brainier. Yes, the techs say not to, but they are also hoping to sell their product. If they don't, West will find someone who can.
 
I would not be using 5 minute epoxy that has been sitting for 5 minutes. You have to use it while it is in it's most liquid state. Once it even begins to thicken a large percent of it's ability to adhere is gone. I took a seminar put on by West on epoxy. They pretty much classified 5 minute for temporary bonds. One thing they really emphasized was the mixing.

When it says to mix for one minute that is how much you should mix it. I think a lot of guys give it a few swirls for like 10 seconds and think it is done. To get the complete chemical reaction you need to mix it like crazy and use it as quickly as possible.

The big problem with 5 minute epoxy for any kind of wood working is you can't do a wet-out, it sets up too quickly. You need a good wet-out for a good complete bridge between the materials. It needs to soak into each piece to have a good integrated bond. As far as building cues, what is the hurry? Use an epoxy that gives you a nice open work time for wetting out the work and gives you a bond you can trust.
Normally I would end by saying "Just my opinion", but actually it is the opinion of every technical support person or expert on epoxy I have ever spoken to.
tap tap tap
Invaluable info that will go past a lot of ears.
Some think wood and ferrules are non-porous.:wink:
 
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