What is the best technic on getting the bubles out of epoxy

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
I was thinking about getting one of the those ultra sonic cleaners and use it to vibrate the bubbles out of my epoxy 105/206.

What technic works the best ?
 
Warm the epoxy up BEFORE mixing if needed . But, not hot .
Warm the items needed to be epoxied too if they are really cold.
 
Last edited:
Temperature is usually the problem.... my sealer epoxy is in 6 oz bottles. I warm them for 10 sec in a microwave before mixing.

I warm the cue with a heat gun while it is spinning.

The room temp should be above 70 deg.

Don't put it on too thick.

Some woods will out gas bubbles no matter what you do. Wenge and purple heart are just 2 that do that.....

Put you epoxy on a spinning cue and rub it in hard with a rubber glove and then smoothe it out with a playing card.....

I have used 20 minute finish epoxy, system 3 , west and 1618..... don't use 5 minute.... it will rip off your rubber glove....

Kim

Kim
 
I would concur with warm - but defining warm is the trick. I once "warmed" already mixed West Systems in the microwave, but apparently overshot "warm" - it went off in 5-7 minutes. Stupid me tried hurrying up my application on the cue and ended up with one hell of a sanding job.
I've used a warm water bath to heat up the resin and hardener ahead of time with better results.
System3 (I think) recommends blanketing the curing epoxy on the cue with butane - as in an unlit butane torch. I can't say that worked very well in my experience.
Finally, while it is very important to mix epoxy hardener and resin well, don't whip it up so that you introduce air bubbles into the mix.
You just have to try different things and live and learn.
Good luck,
:thumbup:
Gary
 
One way is to mix your epoxy in a sandwich bag.
Being careful not to put air into the resin or hardener , then squeeze most of the air out of the bag. I like to add a very small amount (where possible) pigment. Then massage and mix the 2 parts together. When mixed, snip the corner, and use from the corner.
I have tried over the years to mix it very carefully and not get micro air bubbles in the resin. But this has been the only way I have mixed with the least bubbles.
Neil
 
Bubbles in my epoxy

I did a little research and it seems a fine mist of Acetone sprayed on the surface of the epoxy that has been applied will bust the bubbles.
There is even a product called bubble buster made for getting the bubbles out of epoxy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5uSTYNURJ0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5uSTYNURJ0

Has anyone tried this ?

I was also thinking of putting the epoxy on the table of my scroll saw and turning on the scroll saw for a bout 5 minutes ...
To see if the vibration would work the bubbles out ?????????
 
Last edited:
I have learned a lot from the custom lure makers for big game fishing over here in Hawaii. Most of the time the bubbles comes down to using an epoxy with too short of a set time. With casting lures the thinner the better, but the thinner epoxy takes longer to set up. But too fast a set time will boil the epoxy when it's setting. Thinners work great, but it's just a matter of cure time. The slower/ thinner epoxy is also not as brittle. The last thing you want is to break/shatter a $100+ lure head on an 800+lb monster.

The first time I tried to cast something in epoxy it made a boiling mess coming out the top of the mold. Learned real quick that slower is better. Kept testing to get the clearest results, as the quicker cure epoxies have a tendency to turn yellow, or have a yellow tinge to them.

Here's a pic of one of the best producing lures over here. Not the best picture but you get the idea. Or look up Marlin Magic lures over here in Hawaii. It's amazng how these things are made.
 
Albatross Cues said:
[...]
But too fast a set time will boil the epoxy when it's setting. Thinners work great, but it's just a matter of cure time. The slower/ thinner epoxy is also not as brittle. [...]

Learned real quick that slower is better. [...]
.
Click to expand...


What he said - it's not viscosity, it "open time";;; the longer the open time the better the results.

Also, if you use hot air or a torch, don't direct the heat at the surface, direct it
OVER (and slightly ABOVE) the surface. This does less to heat the epoxy and more to draw air (bubbles) out of the surface. The physics involved are that it creates a low-pressure area above the surface, which is essentially a "vacuum" drawing upward on the surface similar ti an airplane wing. But whatever you do don't tell Rick "I am a genius" Geschrey. He won't get it anyway, and we'll just have to hear about his diving days all over again.

Hey Rick -It's like The Sopranos... IT'S OVER! Move on, man...

TW
(PS: See how I managed to turn a simple post into clowning on Rick? Ah... good times... good times.)

 
Last edited:
Yes, I see how that was relevant and necessary to bring into this thread.

I guess it's not "over" to some as they continue to bring up the same crap over and over and over.
 
getting the bubbles out

Thomas Wayne said:



What he said - it's not viscosity, it "open time";;; the longer the open time the better the results.

Also, if you use hot air or a torch, don't direct the heat at the surface, direct it
OVER (and slightly ABOVE) the surface. This does less to heat the epoxy and more to draw air (bubbles) out of the surface. The physics involved are that it creates a low-pressure area above the surface, which is essentially a "vacuum" drawing upward on the surface similar ti an airplane wing. But whatever you do don't tell Rick "I am a genius" Geschrey. He won't get it anyway, and we'll just have to hear about his diving days all over again.

Hey Rick -It's like The Sopranos... IT'S OVER! Move on, man...

TW
(PS: See how I managed to turn a simple post into clowning on Rick? Ah... good times... good times.)
Click to expand...



What research I have done, the torch removes bubble because of the CO2 gases it creates.
http://www.ehow.com/how_5594524_prevent-gas-bubbles-epoxy-resin.html

•Examine for bubbles. If you see tiny bubbles while the resin is still wet, you might be able to get them out with CO2 or a heat source. Use a low-intensity flame like a cigarette lighter or alcohol burner and pass the flame lightly above the area with the bubble. Do not attempt to heat the epoxy--it can catch fire. The CO2 in the flame should draw out smaller bubbles. Make sure that your brand of resin is not flammable and that the manufacturer suggests the flame treatment for bubbles before proceeding. Some manufacturers suggest not using a heat source because it can leave waves in the surface. Instead, try breathing or blowing gently on the areas that have bubbles.

5 •


Pop larger bubbles. If you have a large air bubble, use a pin or needle to get the air out. Do this well before the resin starts to set or it can mar the finish. Push the pin or needle into the bubble, then wobble the pin back and forth to allow the bubble to reach the surface--it should vent out and the bubble will disappear as it fills with resin.

6 •


Use a drill to remove bubbles after the epoxy has hardened. Apply a second coat of resin to get a glassy, seamless finish. A very thin final coat is less likely to have bubbles. If bubbles remain in the final finish, they are easier to remove using the CO2 method.



Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_5594524_prevent-gas-bubbles-epoxy-resin.html
 
bubbles

JoeyInCali said:
Not made for finish coat . 206 will yellow without UV protection on top of it .
You need the 207 hardener.
206 was meant for assembly.
Click to expand...


thank you will order the 207

I assume that the 207 is thicker then the 206.
Is there a white and black dye I can use with the 206 for inlays ?
 
Last edited:
bubbles

josie said:
I usually microwave the two parts for 7 seconds before mixing. I believe temperature is the key.


I have also used this in the past:

http://www.delphiglass.com/mosaic-supplies/glues-chemicals/eat-a-bubble

Spray a mist on the cue as it rotates. But I am not sure it works any better than a torch.


Here is an option for mixing before applying:

http://www.mudhole.com/Automatic-Epoxy-Finish-Mixer

The barrel inside the cup causes a swirl to mix both components of the epoxy.
Click to expand...

Not 100% sure but I believe all the bubble busting sprays is acetone.

I do like the little mixer, I think it would be pretty easy to make a DIY epoxy mixer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top