I've seem SO many ways people attempt to clean a pool table...brush it this way, vacuum it that way. Does anybody REALLY know the proper technique/procedure to do it RIGHT???
What is the proper way to brush/clean a pool table?
- Thread starter nancewayne
- Start date
Since there were no scientific studies done it is not possible to decide which is the better method.
I see in many places staff brushing to table.They are pushing all the dirt into the holes.when the balls go into the pockets they pick up the dirt that was pushed into the pockets.
you can use dirst devil`s car vaccum to suck the dirt.
I prefer: Vacum the table followed by- A towel dipped in hot water,squeezed it and make it a hot damp rag,and wipe the entire table including the surface directly under the rails while applying pressure on the cloth with the hands.clean the balls under tap water and dry them with a paper towel.
don`t allow the adults who act like children that spead the white baby powder all over the table and make it look like white christmas.majority of the staff that work for minimum wages in the pool halls don`t have interest in cleaning the tables.owners of pool halls have a very interesting mind set and I am not going there.
By the way,I clean my shaft the same way.I take the paper towel soaked in hot water,squeezed,then run down on the shaft with pressure.This pulls out all the chalk.then wipe it off with a dry paper towel.I leave the cue 24 hours 365 days in the trunk of my car.
Last edited:
I use a Craftsman 5 gallon Dry-Vac with a horsehair attatchment from my vacuum cleaner going in small circles. Then I brush the table cloth back down with a standard horsehair table brush from the headside of the table towards the footside of the table. Lastly, I use a damp cloth to wipe down the cloth in the same manner and use it to wipe the rails down.
For the pool balls, I use a damp wash rag to wipe them down and then a dry wash rag to dry them off.
This method works perfectly and takes about twenty minutes for my 9' table.
For the pool balls, I use a damp wash rag to wipe them down and then a dry wash rag to dry them off.
This method works perfectly and takes about twenty minutes for my 9' table.
Attachments
This is cut and pasted from the Simonis website for cloth care.
Cloth Care & Maintenance:
Did you know that proper installation of your cloth can prevent premature wear?
If cloth is installed too loosely, the cloth can "bunch up" in front of the ball, thus greatly increasing the appearance of ball burns or white marks on the cloth. Simonis is meant to be installed tightly over the surface of the slate. This not only provides the best playing conditions, but it will ultimately increase the usable life of your cloth.
Typically, white marks left on the surface of the cloth are referred to as ball burns. Simonis' high wool content helps to reduce the appearance of these marks. In addition, we recommend using phenolic balls to further reduce the appearance of these marks. Ball burns from polyester balls are actually marks left on the cloth from degradation of the surface of the ball itself. Phenolic balls are much harder and are much more resistant to heat than polyester balls.
As always, the cloth and the balls should be kept clean. Any residue that has built up on the ball or on the cloth will eventually leave marks. Simple maintenance will prolong the life of your cloth, the aesthetic appearance of your table, and your enjoyment of the game.
Typically, balls are cleaned with special polishes. It is not usually recommended to use water to clean billiard balls. Oils from your hands as well as other compounds can build up on the balls and should be removed regularly.
The cloth can be brushed, but to remove the chalk and talc powders, it can be vacuumed with a non-rotating brush-head attachment that does not allow for too much suction to be formed. Some small vacuums can pick up bowling balls, but this will only stretch the cloth on the table and possibly harm the grouting of the slates as well. You should test your vacuum and brush attachment off of the table first to make certain that it is not going to damage the play surface. Less is more in this department. After all, you are trying to remove a fine powder from a smooth cloth, so don't overdo it.
The cloth can also be wiped with a damp (not wet) clean towel. This should only be done after the table has been vacuumed otherwise the dampness may cause the chalk dust to clump together (think of it as adding water to dry clay). Once the dampness has evaporated, a quick brushing is all you will need before playing as moisture will cause the fibers in the cloth to stand up and a quick brushing will smooth things out.
Stains on the cloth? Contact your local Dry Cleaners as they have some pretty interesting and effective techniques to resolve these incidents. Remember, Simonis is a worsted wool, so be sure to mention that fact.
Cloth Care & Maintenance:
Did you know that proper installation of your cloth can prevent premature wear?
If cloth is installed too loosely, the cloth can "bunch up" in front of the ball, thus greatly increasing the appearance of ball burns or white marks on the cloth. Simonis is meant to be installed tightly over the surface of the slate. This not only provides the best playing conditions, but it will ultimately increase the usable life of your cloth.
Typically, white marks left on the surface of the cloth are referred to as ball burns. Simonis' high wool content helps to reduce the appearance of these marks. In addition, we recommend using phenolic balls to further reduce the appearance of these marks. Ball burns from polyester balls are actually marks left on the cloth from degradation of the surface of the ball itself. Phenolic balls are much harder and are much more resistant to heat than polyester balls.
As always, the cloth and the balls should be kept clean. Any residue that has built up on the ball or on the cloth will eventually leave marks. Simple maintenance will prolong the life of your cloth, the aesthetic appearance of your table, and your enjoyment of the game.
Typically, balls are cleaned with special polishes. It is not usually recommended to use water to clean billiard balls. Oils from your hands as well as other compounds can build up on the balls and should be removed regularly.
The cloth can be brushed, but to remove the chalk and talc powders, it can be vacuumed with a non-rotating brush-head attachment that does not allow for too much suction to be formed. Some small vacuums can pick up bowling balls, but this will only stretch the cloth on the table and possibly harm the grouting of the slates as well. You should test your vacuum and brush attachment off of the table first to make certain that it is not going to damage the play surface. Less is more in this department. After all, you are trying to remove a fine powder from a smooth cloth, so don't overdo it.
The cloth can also be wiped with a damp (not wet) clean towel. This should only be done after the table has been vacuumed otherwise the dampness may cause the chalk dust to clump together (think of it as adding water to dry clay). Once the dampness has evaporated, a quick brushing is all you will need before playing as moisture will cause the fibers in the cloth to stand up and a quick brushing will smooth things out.
Stains on the cloth? Contact your local Dry Cleaners as they have some pretty interesting and effective techniques to resolve these incidents. Remember, Simonis is a worsted wool, so be sure to mention that fact.
This is how I was taught:
- Brush the rails first since some of what you brush will fall onto the table bed.
- Start at the center of the table and brush parallel to the long rail, bringing all the crud underneath the short rail. Brush as far as you can comfortably reach, you don't have to get the whole table from one standing position. You might want to whack the brush on something at this point to dislodge any loose dirt in the fibers. Then start at the center again and go in the opposite direction, bringing all that dirt under the other short rail.
- Walk around to the other side and repeat. It's fine to overlap the areas you already brushed.
- Now use a smaller brush to bring all the junk under the short rail into a corner pocket.
- Clean out the pockets. They may have a little hole at the bottom for dirt to drop through.
- Chalk-off and the like seem to work great. Go ahead and lather 'er up. Not sure if doing both the brushing and chalk off is overkill... I suspect it is.
- Wipe the rails. A handcloth (something lint-free) works great. Don't use windex or pledge or the like, just water is fine. The problem with the other stuff is that when you graze the cloth covering the cushions, over time it leaves a black stripe where the cloth meets the rail. Spraycan stuff like pledge makes it look super smooth and glossy, but you're just looking to get it clean, not get it ready for a show, and you don't want to have that oiliness on the rails when you shoot.
- You can vaccuum but it is a little harsher on the cloth than brushing. No rotating brushes. And if you vacuum don't go back and forth over it, just one or two passes.
- Brush the rails first since some of what you brush will fall onto the table bed.
- Start at the center of the table and brush parallel to the long rail, bringing all the crud underneath the short rail. Brush as far as you can comfortably reach, you don't have to get the whole table from one standing position. You might want to whack the brush on something at this point to dislodge any loose dirt in the fibers. Then start at the center again and go in the opposite direction, bringing all that dirt under the other short rail.
- Walk around to the other side and repeat. It's fine to overlap the areas you already brushed.
- Now use a smaller brush to bring all the junk under the short rail into a corner pocket.
- Clean out the pockets. They may have a little hole at the bottom for dirt to drop through.
- Chalk-off and the like seem to work great. Go ahead and lather 'er up. Not sure if doing both the brushing and chalk off is overkill... I suspect it is.
- Wipe the rails. A handcloth (something lint-free) works great. Don't use windex or pledge or the like, just water is fine. The problem with the other stuff is that when you graze the cloth covering the cushions, over time it leaves a black stripe where the cloth meets the rail. Spraycan stuff like pledge makes it look super smooth and glossy, but you're just looking to get it clean, not get it ready for a show, and you don't want to have that oiliness on the rails when you shoot.
- You can vaccuum but it is a little harsher on the cloth than brushing. No rotating brushes. And if you vacuum don't go back and forth over it, just one or two passes.
I used to use a vaccum but Now I just use Quick Clean .
This is somewhat off-topic but I did want to mention that cleaning your cue shaft with water in the fashion you describe will damage the shaft.
Instead of water, try using denatured rubbing alcohol on a cloth to clean the shaft.
I've been using it for about 6 months now and love it .
How often do you use it?
Make sure you line the vacuum nozzles with cloth.
This is somewhat off-topic but I did want to mention that cleaning
QUOTE]
No,not off topic.It is all about keeping the equipment clean.dirty cloth transfers it`s dirt to the cue sticks.my shaft never warped with the tap water.
When I want a really good cleaning I use the Kirby with the hose and the wide, rectangular horsehair brush. But I first give the table a good brushing with the table brush (you'd be suprised at how much chalk these things pick up). I run my hand over the hairs of the brush several times away from the table to rid the brush of any picked-up chalk and go back to brushing. After the vacuum job I use the product "Chalk Off". This stuff is really good.
If I just want a fast cleaning, then I just use the "Chalk Off".
I have used both the "Quick Clean" and the "Chalk Off". The Quick Clean is okay, but I am really impressed with the Chalk Off.
Before I started using a commercial cleaner I would vacuum then use the damp cloth. This was an acceptable way to clean the table if you don't want to spend any money on cleaners.
#1 thing: Never use a vacuum that pulls/sucks the cloth up off of the slate!!!
Maniac
If I just want a fast cleaning, then I just use the "Chalk Off".
I have used both the "Quick Clean" and the "Chalk Off". The Quick Clean is okay, but I am really impressed with the Chalk Off.
Before I started using a commercial cleaner I would vacuum then use the damp cloth. This was an acceptable way to clean the table if you don't want to spend any money on cleaners.
#1 thing: Never use a vacuum that pulls/sucks the cloth up off of the slate!!!
Maniac
Last edited:
I don't think they do that. Looked like a short brush nozzle, and they vacuumed quite often as I recall. It was at a very good 3 cushion room in Flushing, NY.
for my shafts, i usually wash my hands (during play or after) and with the paper towel i used to dry my hands the first time, i use it to wipe down the shaft. then i take a dry paper towel and dry off the cue. doesn't seem to have effected my shafts too much.
for our billiard table, we use a vacuum with horsehair attachment, and wipe down the rails.
for 9-footers, i've seen different methods. usually vacuuming with same horsehair attachment. i've even see a mist from a spray bottle with tap water, then brushing.
for our billiard table, we use a vacuum with horsehair attachment, and wipe down the rails.
for 9-footers, i've seen different methods. usually vacuuming with same horsehair attachment. i've even see a mist from a spray bottle with tap water, then brushing.
Simple. Drive it through the car wash.
I
never knew that tables come with wheels.that is cool.
I used to clean my Predator shafts with a paper towel and water too. That was until I noticed very fine hairline cracks developing on both of my shafts. Luckily for me, Predator was gracious enough to replace both of my shafts for free.
Since then, I've learned that the Predator web site recommends cleaning your shaft with denatured rubbing alcohol.
Why not clean the shaft according to the manufacturer recommendations rather than take chances on damaging the wood by cleaning it with water?