What type of joint do you prefer?

What type of joint do you prefer on a cue?


  • Total voters
    141
  • Poll closed .
I am not a smoker anymore. I used to prefer a nice tight rolled with a little O. As far as places to play. They are as varied as you like. There is a place on the coast that was converted from a theater. Fast Eddys in Santa Cruz used to be a great place when it was first built. Any place there is a gold crownmis a good joint.
 
For the money I can afford, wood is the best I've found but I have to confess my experience is limited.
 
Radial or 3/8 X 10 flat face wood to wood. But what the hell do I know? LOL
My 1970s Tad Merry Widow with piloted joint was the best hitting cue I have ever had in my hands. Sold it because I couldn't get used to shooting with a 57" cue. :(
 
I am not a smoker anymore. I used to prefer a nice tight rolled with a little O. As far as places to play. They are as varied as you like. There is a place on the coast that was converted from a theater. Fast Eddys in Santa Cruz used to be a great place when it was first built. Any place there is a gold crownmis a good joint.

Best reply in this whole thread.....
 
I do not have a preference,

NOR do I think that the kind of joint has any significant contribution towards or degredation from the playability of the cue.
 
My favorite is a piloted radial wood to wood like Murray Tucker makes for his cues.

Hang on to that one...I seem to recall Murray stating a couple of years ago that he had decided to discontinue using the Radial pin...can't remember if he gave a reason for why.

I have to admit tho...I am really diggin' on my 3/4" SS sleeved FF Radial pinned cue. :thumbup:
 
Why does nobody ever mention all the other things that go into the feel of the hit like tip hardness, ferrule material, shaft taper, joint ring material, type of wood in the butt (and shaft, though most are still maple), and the weight of the cue? Those are all factors affecting the feel of the hit.

I play with a Schuler, piloted wood to wood joint. One of my Schulers has composite joint collars, one has a plain metal joint collar with no ring behind it, the other two have a decorative steel collar with a black composite ring behind it. They all have oodles of wood to wood contact. They all feel about the same considering slight weight differences.
 
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Why does nobody ever mention all the other things that go into the feel of the hit like tip hardness, ferrule material, shaft taper, joint ring material, type of wood in the butt (and shaft, though most are still maple), and the weight of the cue? Those are all factors affecting the feel of the hit.

I play with a Schuler, piloted wood to wood joint. One of my Schulers has composite joint collars, one has a plain metal joint collar with no ring behind it, the other two have a decorative steel collar with a black composite ring behind it. They all have oodles of wood to wood contact. They all feel about the same considering slight weight differences.

Welcome to the forums! It should be noted that all of the above has been discussed in other varying threads...one just needs search for it. The OP was just interested in joint-type...not exactly which joint-type played the best, as that is pretty subjective. I prefer big pins because, for me, those cues feel more 'solid' in the hand.
 
mine wasn't exactly listed 5/16x14 piloted exotic wood such as PH, Pink ivory, rosewood etc......

flat faced wood to wood (wood collar) radial is probably second favorite with.....but any flatfaced joint hits well but i find them better with bigger pins

brass is just fine also.....they are good for use with lighter hardwoods to adjust balance and weight.....i just saw a cue i built with one 5 years ago and it was just fine a quick touch with the micro grit and it looked brand new......the only thing I wouldn't do with brass is use a brass pin with a brass insert as it could gall together and lock up.
 
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They are not the same. A piloted shaft has a "pilot" sticking out of it. A normal 5/16-14 is flat faced. See below.

Many cue makers built 5/16X14 piloted joints with just a brass insert or a bit of wood sticking out, i.e., the pilot. These are not flat faced, since the face of the joint has a pilot (on the shaft) and a recess (on the butt)
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I've seen them before but knew them as countersunk joints.
 
I voted "other" cuz I prefer a Joint that serves stiff drinks ...


On a more serious note: I prefer 3/8" Pin, wood-to-wood.
 
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