What would you do here?

Neil said:
Here's my thoughts on it- I agree with SJM and a coupleof others here. Go into the 5-8, preferably rail first into the 8. That clears the 5 for easy psoition on the 6, and holds the cb there with a little angle on the 4. I don't see any need to move the 7.

I thought I had a good plan.:frown: But, alas, poolplayer 2093 was right:mad: I figured there was about a zero % chance of getting tied up, and, even after seeing it, I couldn't believe it! I don't think I could do it again in a thousand tries, but, I managed to do it at the worst possible time. This is how I ended up, neddless to say, I was sick to my stomach. My jump off the rail over the 8 didn't work either.:rolleyes:

CueTable Help



(Doubling up means that we were both on the hill, so we agreed to double the bet and start a new set) Can't always win, but a loss like that just plain SUCKS! I saw it happen, and still don't want to believe that it is even possible to do! It just doesn't make sense to me??? Apparently, I just knicked the 8 going in, then hit the 5, made it in the corner, and the cb spun off the rail to go up behind the 8.??????

edit: I should have rolled the 8 onto the 4 at this point, but I knew that he would have ball in hand and would easily stick me just as bad, sooooo, being pretty ticked off at this point, I went for it- just like any sucker would!
Click to expand...

man that's rough!

just cause you're mad you shouldn't take it out on your wallet. i think you should have still rolled the 4 on to the 8. at least that way you might get another shot at the table.

what was the total bet after all that doubling up? you might have said it already but i was wondering what the spot was?
 
I definately dont try to hit the rail first. I go straight into the 8, it might go off the 5 and in, it might go straight in, it might end up over the pocket. Any of those I can work with from there. If I have the angle to shoot the 4 ball in and come off the rail pushing the 7 up to mid table or off the 9 and towards the rail I do that as well so that shape from the 6 to the 7 becomes trivial.

The way the table shows I cannot fathom how you could have made the 5 and gotten behind the 8, you cannot possibly spin the cueball behind the 8 after making the 5 from the angle off the 3 ball the way that the picture is drawn, the 3 would need to be alot closer to the short rail and/or the 5 would need to be more towards the pocket. What I mean is below is where the cueball ends up as it hits the 5, you can have all the left hand spin in the world but the angle that cueball came off the 3 and where the 8 is relative to the 5 will not allow you to get behind the 8, you are going to be hitting the 8 square.

CueTable Help



Regardless, I would stun into the 8 first, not the rail, if you hang the 8 in the jaws you can now move the 7 leaving the cueball straight on the 5, slow roll the 5-8 combo leaving the 5 over the pocket, and then you have a duck table. If the 8 drops you are fine too, you simply need to make sure on the angle you get on the 5 off the 4 a little more.
 
Hitting the 5/8 introduces risks (as your results show) that are avoidable. All you really need to do is be sure you have a little angle on the 4 and the rest of the runout is automatic (including drawing two rails off the 5 for the 6). Everything else is harder and riskier.

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Hitting the 5/8 introduces risks (as your results show) that are avoidable. All you really need to do is be sure you have a little angle on the 4 and the rest of the runout is automatic (including drawing two rails off the 5 for the 6). Everything else is harder and riskier.
Click to expand...

I emphatically disagree, getting the proper angle on the 5 to even spin between the 7 and 9 with low right to get onto the 6 is hampered by the position of the 7.

You can also run into the issue of ending up on the rail like this

CueTable Help



Either at A or god forbid B, either place sucks. At A you "might" have a chance to shoot with top left and go off 2 rails to get onto the 7 depending on how the table plays, but it is by no means a given at that point. There are actually alot of places coming off 2 rails from the 5 where you are not going to get onto the 6 with an easy shot back down to the 7 and the area you do want to land on is about about 2 square feet, and you are trying to land it with right hand draw off 2 rails, you better know the table very well and have a very reliable and precise stroke. Alot (read most) players will under or overhit that draw shot and leave themselves with the cueball on the rail, a straight in 6, or they wont roll far enough and have a thin cut on the 6 trying to slow roll it to now hold for the 7.
 
Neil said:
Oh, I totally agree, Celtic. I still don't understand how it did what it did. It was the mother of all bad rolls. But, that IS how it was, just as diagramed. Needless to say, it kind of blew my mind, and I wasn't thinking real clear after that.

The amount wasn't a lot by some standards on here, but it was enough to hurt an unemployed guy, and make the other guy happy.:frown: That shot just capped off a real bad day. The only thing I did right, was I manuevered him into me still having the nuts. And, he outlucked it big time. As always seems to happen, I didn't play up to speed, so he got every roll in the book, and a few that haven't been written yet.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Actually hitting the five and getting hooked behind the eight is not so unusual. As a matter of fact it's part of Murphy's law. In this game if you think it might happen it probably will.

Personally I would avoid moving either of these balls. The problem here is like most posters suggest is getting from the five to the six and I can understand that moving the eight would make the task much easier, but not worth the risk. Any time that we attempt a stun shot like this from the three to the eight and so much distance involved we can expect trouble.

I would try to get position on the four so that I could move the seven further off the rail to clear a better path to draw off the five two rails to get to the six and making it easier to get to the seven from the six.
 
PROG8R said:
slow roll the 3 to get to the end almost straight on the 4, shoot the 4, bumping the 7 out a bit and lock him up behind the 8 putting the 5 down table.
Click to expand...

I would slow roll or stun the shot on the 3 and then play the 4 clean without moving the 7 ball.

I agree with the safe off the 5, but I don't agree with the kick of the 7 ball. I'm a big advocate of not moving anything unless I really need to. It introduces extra complications that might happen and the extra cueball movement could add more difficulty to the shot then necessary that might result in a miss.
 
Overthinking it I think? Unless the diagram is different from the actual shot (it was thinner) or I am wearing wei glasses (where everything looks easier until you're actually down on the shot) ...

you can just draw-drag the 3 in and easily fall in the window for the 4. ESPECIALLY on a bar box where the corners are fat and you can undercut/cheat a little.
 
dabarbr said:
Actually hitting the five and getting hooked behind the eight is not so unusual. As a matter of fact it's part of Murphy's law. In this game if you think it might happen it probably will...
Click to expand...

I was thinking I'd probably get a roll like that when I first analyzed the WEI. Good call.

You and I should never play. Laughs would be had and cues would be broken.
 
dabarbr said:
Actually hitting the five and getting hooked behind the eight is not so unusual. As a matter of fact it's part of Murphy's law. In this game if you think it might happen it probably will.

Personally I would avoid moving either of these balls.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Hitting the eight puts it in front of the 5; hitting the 5 puts you behind the 8. Neither is conductive to a runout.

However, you do want to be close by (the 5 and 8) so just drift the cue in that direction softly.
 
Just shoot the 3 then the 4 and get shape on the 5. Since you are stalling for a bigger bet and may want to play the person again: when playing a safe off the 5 --- do it with a calculated miscue. Your opponent won't know she has been hustled.
Happy hunting.
 
Neil said:
Here's a situation, that at first glance seems simple enough. But, once you really look at it, you see that you have a small window for the 4, and you have to hold the cb to near the rail. The rails are a little bouncy. You are on the hill giving up some weight, and you have already doubled up and started over twice. You are also on a bar box. How would you play this?

CueTable Help

Click to expand...

Going into the 5-8 off of the three was a pretty good shot selection, but a lot of funny things could happen there, getting you in trouble. The roll you got was brutal. To me it looks like the right shot would have been to pocket the 3 and 4, then play safe off of the 5, leaving the cue ball in position A and the 5 ball somewhere around the foot spot. Was that shot available? If so, that safety might have won you the game.

5 Ball Safety.JPG
 
Neil said:
It was only the last two. And I still lost.:embarrassed2: Now he wants the 8.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

How sick is that! he won and now wants to adjust for a bigger spot! You can't win for losing apparently...

what was the total after all the doubling? i couldn't find where you had said
 
Hitting balls creates opportunities for problems. I'd just run them as they are. Angle on the 4 from the 3. Go around the 7 toward the corner and the long rail. Angle on 5, 1 or 2 rails to the 6 etc. Not that tough.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top