When looking at this rack and the 4-5-6 transitions .. I imediately thought a 2-10 or 5-10 combo should be attempted ... the 2 looks like it's in the way of a 1-10 combo.
What would you do here?
- Thread starter Aaron_S
- Start date
When looking at this rack and the 4-5-6 transitions .. I imediately thought a 2-10 or 5-10 combo should be attempted ... the 2 looks like it's in the way of a 1-10 combo.
I'd rather spend an hour at Bed Bath and Beyond than shoot a combo, but if you could fall right on the 5 to play it rail first into the 10 and stick whitey behind the 8, you'd have a nifty little two way shot there.
Aaron
Run out to the 5. Shoot the 5 to 10 combo and play safe at the same time behind the 8.
No way would any player with a brain play a 5-10 combo. if you get on the 5 from the 4 you stand a very good chance of getting out. that seems to be the prevailing sentiment. also i see no need whatsoever to bump the 10 ball anywhere.
DCP
DCP
I see somebody has read 'How to Win Friends and Influence People'.
Just for the record, I have a brian. I saw it once on a CAT Scan. :grin-square:
I see nothing wrong with playing the combo and trying to win the game. What do you risk? Getting ball-in-hand? Getting on the 5 is tough action. If you get weird on the combo you can always play safe. :thumbup2:
Move the 10
1 to the top side pocket, float cb to about the top of the 'L' in the logo.
2 to the side, bump the 10 off the rail 6+ inches to allow the 5 to pass.
3 in the corner, draw to the 4, or two rail to the 4, either direction depending where cb stops after the 10 ball bump.
4 in the corner, roll up for 5 in the top right corner.
5 in the top right corner, pop out below for 6 in lower right corner, or float down above 6 for the lower left corner.
6 as above. get good on 7 from whichever 6 shape.
7,8,9,10 should be pretty straight forward.
If the 10 bumps too hard-might cut off a two rail path, 3 to the 4. Adjust as necessary.
( I just don't like the five in the same corner as the 4, to really open it up, I worry about bumping the 8 to the rail above the side making 8,9,10 a tougher out.)
That's what I see. But I usually overestimate the 'do-able' by 'me-able'.
Edit: As to the unspoken 'are you nuts?'....ah-yeah
1 to the top side pocket, float cb to about the top of the 'L' in the logo.
2 to the side, bump the 10 off the rail 6+ inches to allow the 5 to pass.
3 in the corner, draw to the 4, or two rail to the 4, either direction depending where cb stops after the 10 ball bump.
4 in the corner, roll up for 5 in the top right corner.
5 in the top right corner, pop out below for 6 in lower right corner, or float down above 6 for the lower left corner.
6 as above. get good on 7 from whichever 6 shape.
7,8,9,10 should be pretty straight forward.
If the 10 bumps too hard-might cut off a two rail path, 3 to the 4. Adjust as necessary.
( I just don't like the five in the same corner as the 4, to really open it up, I worry about bumping the 8 to the rail above the side making 8,9,10 a tougher out.)
That's what I see. But I usually overestimate the 'do-able' by 'me-able'.
Edit: As to the unspoken 'are you nuts?'....ah-yeah
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As soon as I saw the layout this is what came to mind. Like you, I would prefer moving the ten instead of moving the eight. This is more predictable and very easy to do. Now all you need to do is get a nice angle on the five to get to the six and you're out.
Snoozd, loozd
While typing my response, this showed up. Sheesh.
Mosconiac, my congratulations or condolences to you for thinking similarly on this 'whachagonnado'.
I can get us a group counseling rate, if you're interested.
Take care.
While typing my response, this showed up. Sheesh.Mosconiac, my congratulations or condolences to you for thinking similarly on this 'whachagonnado'.
I can get us a group counseling rate, if you're interested.
Take care.
1 to the top side pocket, float cb to about the top of the 'L' in the logo.
2 to the side, bump the 10 off the rail 6+ inches to allow the 5 to pass.
3 in the corner, draw to the 4, or two rail to the 4, either direction depending where cb stops after the 10 ball bump.
4 in the corner, roll up for 5 in the top right corner.
5 in the top right corner, pop out below for 6 in lower right corner, or float down above 6 for the lower left corner.
6 as above. get good on 7 from whichever 6 shape.
7,8,9,10 should be pretty straight forward.
If the 10 bumps too hard-might cut off a two rail path, 3 to the 4. Adjust as necessary.
( I just don't like the five in the same corner as the 4, to really open it up, I worry about bumping the 8 to the rail above the side making 8,9,10 a tougher out.)
That's what I see. But I usually overestimate the 'do-able' by 'me-able'.
Edit: As to the unspoken 'are you nuts?'....ah-yeah
Yeah, I think that's what Mark had in mind too. I kind of like it, but it does still leave some work to be done. I think I'd want have less angle on the 4 if I were playing the 5 uptable so I could be sure to get the angle to go across for the 6. Playing for middle of the table on the 4 is a little steeper than I'd like, but the angle you come up with on the 3 is really going to dictate where you can get on the 4. Ideally, I think I would want to come three rails (long rail by the 3, long rail b/w the 4 and 5 and then bounce off the end rail a bit for shape on the 4. That would make it very easy to lay the cueball on the rail under the 5 and get a nice natural angle to the 6.
Aaron
:rotflmao: Dang Niel, you got me!
I'm with Neil. If I was straight on the 5 I would have tried to cheat it a bit with lots of high left or stopped the cue ball and play safe on the 6. But seriously, how can you even make decisions when you are tripping all over everyones chalk and personal belongings???
That's EXACTLLY what i would do here. Moving the 8 ball is not a good move. The 10 ball is the only obstructing ball that needs to be moved for a clear shot at the 5 in the corner. Now the 5 to the 6 can be tricky if you let whitey get away form ya.
I would clip the 4 ball neatly into the corner and slowly drift up the rail (almost on the rail) and then stun shot the 5 down in the corner and have the cueball float over to the 6 for the out. So the REAL key shot in this rack is the 5 to the 6 :wink:
No, wait, Woof, i wasnt referring to you. i was just talking in general terms. that seems like an incredibly difficult combo to me. i just cant imagine taking that one on.
didnt mean to offend, my apologies.
DCP
Maybe in an alternate universe the 1-10 is an easier combo. In Missouri I like the 5-10 better.
That's why DC rules.
PocketPoint
Banned
For the level I play at, I would play for bank shape into the bottom side on the 5 ball.
I would play safe by thinning the 5 and reposition the cueball behind the 9 and 3. Or another option is to try and freeze the cueball behind the 8 and send the 5 into the middle of the table.
I think that would provide a better chance for me to win the game than running the balls. Not only is it difficult position on the 5, but it has to be perfect to get a good shot on the 6. So I probably would play safe on the 5 since it's an easy shot to execute.
I would play safe by thinning the 5 and reposition the cueball behind the 9 and 3. Or another option is to try and freeze the cueball behind the 8 and send the 5 into the middle of the table.
I think that would provide a better chance for me to win the game than running the balls. Not only is it difficult position on the 5, but it has to be perfect to get a good shot on the 6. So I probably would play safe on the 5 since it's an easy shot to execute.
PocketPoint
Banned
Well I just read RunoutJJ's choice to move the 10 after making the 2 in the side, and I'll change my mind lol. Good thinking, I never saw this option.