That's what make this a nice thread. It clearly demonstrates an option too often overlooked by the typical player.
What's your Shot??
- Thread starter Neil
- Start date
That's what make this a nice thread. It clearly demonstrates an option too often overlooked by the typical player.
I saw Post 15, but had a hard time interpreting it. It doesn't seem to say the same thing that I did. You show (and seem to describe, although it's hard to tell) the CB making equal angles into and away from the 5 ball when the angle into the 5 ball should be about half the angle away from it.
It may be the same thought, but once again I'm trying to clarify.
pj
chgo
That's what I'd do too if it was possible, but the cut angle on the 4, as it's drawn, doesn't permit it. Best you can do is hit between the other side pocket and the 7 (closer to the pocket, I think). Look at the 3D view to see what I mean.
pj
chgo
Looks to me like you might be able to cheat the pocket and get there, but if that's not possible I would go forward with some left off the 4 and try to break it out. If you wait until the 5 you run the risk of leaving yourself safe or having no shot on the 6. If you break it out off the 4 you can play shape off the 5.
I agree with your general strategy: if possible, always break out the OB before you need it so getting a shot on the broken-out ball requires less luck.
This is also a straight pool strategy: go for the breakouts while there are still other shots around because you can't rely on getting a shot on any of the broken-out balls (much less a specific one).
pj
chgo
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It depends a bit on the exact lie of the 6/7. If there is a reasonable gap between the 7 and the rail, I prefer the draw straight from the 5 towards that gap rather than the 2 rail route.
The reason is - apart from the fact that I am very comfortable with that sort of shot - is that it can be played with strong running english. Provided you hit the correct side of the 7 (which does not look too difficult if you have left yourself a nice thick half ball cut on the 5), the cb will often move the blocker out of the way and spin on, pushing the 6 towards the corner pocket.
But perhaps the 7 is a little close to the rail for this shot to be on? (If so, the danger is the cb kisses the 6 too thin and over runs it leaving nothing).
The reason is - apart from the fact that I am very comfortable with that sort of shot - is that it can be played with strong running english. Provided you hit the correct side of the 7 (which does not look too difficult if you have left yourself a nice thick half ball cut on the 5), the cb will often move the blocker out of the way and spin on, pushing the 6 towards the corner pocket.
But perhaps the 7 is a little close to the rail for this shot to be on? (If so, the danger is the cb kisses the 6 too thin and over runs it leaving nothing).
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Just a way of bumping your post really ...
Nice to have you back and posting again, Patrick.
Straight pool will definitely drive home the importance of developing clusters as early as possible. There is another piece of this that I, as predominantly a rotation player, like to include in my strategy as well. When looking at potential breakout options, I like to also consider the potential downside of not hitting the cluster accurately, or missing it completely.
Looking at this particular diagram, the downside of drawing into the cluster off of the 4-ball is that a roughly half-ball hit on either the lower side of the 6 or the lower side of the 7 could very well result in a hook that would leave you kicking at the 5. Hitting either ball flush will, at best, result in a somewhat difficult cut on the 5, with distance. The upside to drawing off of the 4 is that you come in at a better angle for achieving separation (I think), and, should you miss the cluster completely, you will most likely have a decent shot at the 5 with an angle that may be conducive to a second breakout attempt. Playing the ghost, I may actually play the draw shot breakout if the angle is there, knowing that I will potentially have a second whack at it if I don't get it out the first time.
Playing a real opponent, however, I think prefer drawing back off of the 4 and setting up a multi-rail breakout shot on the 5-ball. I would play the breakout shot to come in short, trying to get either the top of the 7 or the rail before the 7. That would mitigate the scratch risk somewhat, and, if I happen to come too short and miss the cluster entirely, I know that I will at least be able to see the 6 and possibly can play some sort of defensive shot from there.
All that being said, I still think I'm even money or worse to get out from here because of how the 6/7 is laying; I just don't feel that I'm favored to come up with an offensive shot even if I do hit them good. With my luck, I'd probably hit the 7 flush, put myself in jail, and set up a dead 6/9 combo for my opp, LOL.
Aaron
Edit: I forgot to mention the straight draw shot off of the 5-ball. I think that's a good shot as well, but I typically don't play it because I play so infrequently that it's hard to rely on my feel on these shots that are so heavily dependent on both spin and speed.
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This would be my choice also
Here's what I meant by my description.
You can draw to the same target from a steeper angle on the 5 ball by adjusting your tip placement and shot speed, but not from a much wider angle.
The advantage of being right around the 2:1 line is that you know how to hit the CB (low and slow). The disadvantage is that you have to hit it pretty well.
pj
chgo
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Good method.
The method that I have always used for finding the contact point on the object ball is similar to yours. But here is how I do it.
1) You locate the "drawback' line as you have.
2). Locate the contact point from the cue ball to the "pocket line" you established on object ball. This creates an angle.
3). Bisect this angle to locate the NEW contact point.
I use the "pocket line" also that you established because it places the object ball in the center of the pocket and leaves room for adjustment if needed.
Make the 4, get as straight in as you can on the 5, sink the 5 in the corner stopping the Qball . Using the "Plus System" shoot out of the 6 diamond on the long rail into 4 on the short rail. This should break up the 6 and 7 with a shot on the 6 in the corner and a possible shot on the 7 in the other corner.
Set it up and give it a try.
John
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What do you mean by "the NEW contact point"? Isn't there only one contact point (the one that pockets the ball)?
pj
chgo
Wish I knew how to draw up my shot but I have no idea how to go about it so I'll try to describe my shot.
Shoot the 4 and slide the cue over to the left side of the 5 for a somewhat thin cut to the short opposite corner. The cue will come one rail off of the bottom rail, straight down to the 6/7 and you will not really need to use much if any english on the five. As long as the shape from the 4 to the 5 is executed I would think the 6/7 break out would leave great shape on the 6 into the corner.
Shoot the 4 and slide the cue over to the left side of the 5 for a somewhat thin cut to the short opposite corner. The cue will come one rail off of the bottom rail, straight down to the 6/7 and you will not really need to use much if any english on the five. As long as the shape from the 4 to the 5 is executed I would think the 6/7 break out would leave great shape on the 6 into the corner.
I'd like to know if that is a reliable option. I feel that it is but not having a table at home I cannot set em up and try it.
What I'm most comfortable with coming over to the left side of the 5 from the 4 is that the likelihood of fouling off of the 5 seems a bit more remote and shape on the 6 after the break should almost be automatic......but then again I've missed a lot of breakouts in my day.
What I'm most comfortable with coming over to the left side of the 5 from the 4 is that the likelihood of fouling off of the 5 seems a bit more remote and shape on the 6 after the break should almost be automatic......but then again I've missed a lot of breakouts in my day.