Which cuemakers can make knifed-in 8 pt cues

breakshot said:
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No, not by hand, just deep "v" cut points into the forearm.
Oh ok, so your "knifed-in means "deep v".

breakshot said:
-If somebody tried to cut them in by hand, I think they they would have a hard time getting things to line up.
Really? See link below ifor examples of true "knifed-in" and "deep v".
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=186&highlight=bandido's+cues
There are a number of CMs that can do the deep v. I think that's the popular method nowadays.
 
Here's an 8 pointer I built, with eight more points recut into the first 8 points. The most technologically advanced piece of equipment in my shop is a set of digital calipers. The technique can be done by any competent cuemaker, and mastered by any cuemaker who has a high attention to detail. I know of more cuemakers who can do it than I can think of that can't. All you gotta do is find an available builder of whom you like the style & playability of the cues he builds. With quality being a higher priority than price, your options are many. For 8 overlapping points from ANY well established builder, you'll be looking at $1500 minimum. Look at & well over 2G$ for bigger names.

show010.jpg
 
qbilder said:
Here's an 8 pointer I built, with eight more points recut into the first 8 points. The most technologically advanced piece of equipment in my shop is a set of digital calipers. The technique can be done by any competent cuemaker, and mastered by any cuemaker who has a high attention to detail. I know of more cuemakers who can do it than I can think of that can't. All you gotta do is find an available builder of whom you like the style & playability of the cues he builds. With quality being a higher priority than price, your options are many. For 8 overlapping points from ANY well established builder, you'll be looking at $1500 minimum. Look at & well over 2G$ for bigger names.

show010.jpg
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-This is the type of overlapping points That I would like to have
 

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To my knowledge, this is the one and only totally veneered 8 point cue that Skip Weston has done. Because of the way that he does his points (definitely NOT inlaid), technically, this cue is a 32 point cue...as technically, those are NOT veneers, but points within points...basically a form of recut.

skipfore.jpg


Lisa
 
ridewiththewind said:
To my knowledge, this is the one and only totally veneered 8 point cue that Skip Weston has done. Because of the way that he does his points (definitely NOT inlaid), technically, this cue is a 32 point cue...as technically, those are NOT veneers, but points within points...basically a form of recut.

skipfore.jpg


Lisa


That cue is one HELLEVA lot of work!
 
bandido said:
Oh ok, so your "knifed-in means "deep v".


Really? See link below ifor examples of true "knifed-in" and "deep v".
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=186&highlight=bandido's+cues
There are a number of CMs that can do the deep v. I think that's the popular method nowadays.
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-pretty cues, Edwin
I see alot of inlays for points, I do see some 6pt cues but I didn't see any 8pt cues, with overlapping points like this type
 

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qbilder said:
That cue is one HELLEVA lot of work!


I couldn't agree more, Eric!! Probably why Skip has chosen not to do another...LoL. Every time I see my pics of this cue again, it makes me really sad...it was one of those true regrets I have, and if I could find and afford to have it back, I would do it in a New York minute!!

It is also the reason I vowed that I would never ever sell again a beloved cue in order to finance a new one...even if it's from the same maker! Those truly great players are just too few and far between.

Lisa ====> has learned her lesson the hard way. :sorry:
 
ridewiththewind said:
I couldn't agree more, Eric!! Probably why Skip has chosen not to do another...LoL. Every time I see my pics of this cue again, it makes me really sad...it was one of those true regrets I have, and if I could find and afford to have it back, I would do it in a New York minute!!

It is also the reason I vowed that I would never ever sell again a beloved cue in order to finance a new one...even if it's from the same maker! Those truly great players are just too few and far between.

Lisa ====> has learned her lesson the hard way. :sorry:
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That is exactly why I'm trying to find somebody that builds those true 8point cues, I believe they are more rare than anybody truly knows.
thanks for the photo:thumbup:
 
This cue is 8 rosewood overlapping points with IVORY RECUTS!- no lie and rosewood on top of the ivory, I saw him put huge squares of ivory into the pockets - only to cut most of it out so that the last rosewood point would go on top.:eek:
 

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breakshot said:
This is the type of cue i'm talking about
That cue is made the same as the carmelli, weston, crisp. They are all v point cues. The only diffrence is where and how many veneers were placed on the points before they were glued into the cue. (the weston was recuts so they were glued into the cue each color at a time and then recut into a veneer for the next color to go onto the top of it.)
The one you have pictured has 4 points with veneers or recuts put into the forearm and then 4 more points cut thru the original 4 only those don't have veneers.
 
Chris Byrne said:
That cue is made the same as the carmelli, weston, crisp. They are all v point cues. The only diffrence is where and how many veneers were placed on the points before they were glued into the cue. (the weston was recuts so they were glued into the cue each color at a time and then recut into a veneer for the next color to go onto the top of it.)
The one you have pictured has 4 points with veneers or recuts put into the forearm and then 4 more points cut thru the original 4 only those don't have veneers.
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The Crisp cue does not have the points overlap, so how deep are the cuts that hold the points. The Carmelli has a bunch of the veneers glued to the square before it was glued to the cue-I like the added complexity that comes with the overlapping points( making the veneers end equally). But the Weston cue with all the re-cuts adds even morecomplexity to building the cue.

The cue I showed does not have veneers or recuts in the smaller points- your correct, but I do believe that recutting ivoryis not done very often.

-Do you have any 8pt cues that you have done that you could show us?
-Overall I think I'm realizing that these 8pt cues are very hard to come by, as shown by the very few examples I've seen here.
 
I think that you'll find...

breakshot said:
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That is the look that I am talking about, but I am suspect because the used a dark forearm, making it easy to conceal a round tip of a pocket with inlays, I'll have to call him to see how it was made.
Thanks:thumbup:

I think that you;ll find that the majority of cuemakers that don't have obviously rounded points are using the 90 degree v groove to make them, as for me it is easier to use the 90 degree v at an angle than to use CNC to cut out the pockets for the points and then hand cut the points to sharp edges and I can't imagine anyone being able to draw with a sharpy the points being sharp in a believable manner.

Jaden
 
breakshot said:
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-pretty cues, Edwin
I see alot of inlays for points, I do see some 6pt cues but I didn't see any 8pt cues, with overlapping points like this type
Thank you. Am just showing the finished product for hand "knifed-in" inlaid points. Number of points wasn't really what I was referring to but you can even find a one-side overlap v-spliced 11 pointer there and a number of V-spliced 7s.

"Torture" (cue below) is a true knifed-in cue with the mitred bottom ivory lined points. This could have easily been made into an 8-pointer but the additional 4 low points may just be considered as clutter in that design layout.

9_torture-collage.jpg
 
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breakshot said:
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I could be wrong :rolleyes: but I believe every Josey cue that I've seen has inlaid points


Josey does make spliced points. As I said previously, he just made a couple of 8 point spliced fronts. They looked awesome. Give him a call!!!!

Martin
 
breakshot said:
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The Crisp cue does not have the points overlap, so how deep are the cuts that hold the points.

Look again. They are certainlay overlapping. I moved the "overlap" area back a few inches to preserve the view of the forearm wood, which adds more contrast & finer lines. The ivory points do not overlap, but the narra points do.

Here are a couple simple examples of the severe "overlap" you are asking about. It has nothing to do with being more complex. The only difference between these forearms & the ebony forearm cue is the angle pitch that I cut the v-grooves. This angle depends on how wide & how long the points will be in a forearm, that's all. The wider points overlap several inches up from the handle and cover/hide much of the base forearm wood. The narrower points overlap closer to the handle & allow view of the forearm wood. This is the way I have grown to prefer. I passed the wide overlap a while back & grew to prefer the sleeker & cleaner, less cluttered look. So it's not so much a "rarity due to complexity", but more a choice of asthetics the builders make.

braz3.jpg

td4.jpg


Here's another example of the narrow point overlap, which gives the points a longer & sleeker look without hiding half of the nicely figured forearm.

mycue025.jpg
 
breakshot said:
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I would love to see some photos, I know alot of cuemakers do 4 knifed in points and then do 4 inlaid points. The lavel of complexity goes up because they have to put the first 4 in the cue and then come back and do 4 more. sounds easy but when you try to get all the points to line up at the top and also at the the bottom where they come together, it becomes very difficult.
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As for the look of ebony into maple, what about cocobola or another heavy wood. It can be done without making them look just like BB's.

Here is one of mine, with ivory inlays.

http://www.arnotq.com/pages/806/black_max_pool_cue.jpg
 
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