Which Way Do You Play This?

D

DrCue'sProtege

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
you have the 6, 7, 8, and 9 left on the table. your left with a slight cut shot into the upper left corner pocket on the 6-Ball. as best as i can tell, you have two options to get onto the 7-Ball. they are:

1) Draw. even though there is a slight angle, with some low left you can draw the ball back to the rail around Point A, and the left spin will take you up to around the desired position spot near the red arrow.

2) High Right. the slight angle allows this to happen, spinning from Point B off the short and long rail to the desired position around the blue arrow.

Please note with this very slight angle on the 6-Ball it would be very difficult to "Pound" the shot two rails using a little low/left and coming up.

i elected to use the draw shot with low left, and managed to get to around Point A. the angle on the 7-Ball allowed me to follow up for position on the 8-Ball, and proceeded to finish this rack off.

just wondering which options you better players out there would have used? low left or high right? or, as in many situations, this is really a matter of personal preference, perhaps?

DCP

CueTable Help

 
I don't think you want the CB at position A. Because you need an angle to get to the 8-ball. The angle for 6-ball isn't that big, so I would have draw, without left or right spin
 
MasterEye said:
I will take the follow.
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I think that would be the best decision, because it ends closer to the 8-ball.



ps. I like to draw, easy to control :D
 
For me it would depend on the equipment I am playing on. If I am on bigger pockets, I might just draw back a little from the 6 and take a tougher shot on the 7. If its tighter pockets, I would follow off the 6 and try to get closer to the 7. JMO.

Southpaw
 
I would draw the rock back off of the bottom rail and end up about 6" to 8" off the rail. That would give me angle to get from the 7 to the 8 no problem.

Easy out for the money baby!!!!

Russ........
 
Shot

A) I think drawing the ball will end up lower on the table than where you have the positon for the cue ball.
B) I think following the ball will end up with more of a cut on the 7 than what you have because of the way the english will take on the 2nd rail.

C) The 3rd option I see is to stun-follow it with low right, let the angle throw the cue ball to the foot end rail and back up table for the 7 ball shot. You don't need hardly any angle to be able to get on the 8.
 
WesleyW said:
I don't think you want the CB at position A. Because you need an angle to get to the 8-ball. The angle for 6-ball isn't that big, so I would have draw, without left or right spin
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its not at Position A, thats where you draw the cue ball back to, and then it comes off the rail up to around where the red arrow is. sorry if i've caused any confusion.

and sorry if my blue arrow isnt quite aligned, but i think everyone gets the idea here.

DCP
 
Wow! SEVEN FEET of follow?????

Draw your ball 6"-10" and just make the 7 with smooth top left, and you are going right to the 8. The angle on the 7 lays absolutely perfect, and allows you to hit the 7 at pocket speed and get right where you need. If you draw back any further, you end up having to hit the 7 ball harder, into an "unfriendly angle", with a possible jaw out.

With the 45 degree angle cutting the 7 ball in, you can even catch quite a bit of rail and it will still go in. I think anyone who follows out has no confidence in a controlled draw, and they MASSIVELY complicate an otherwise simple layout. Yeah, just drawing a little bit leaves a longer shot, but remember, the ANGLE of that longer shot gives you a MUCH bigger pocket to shoot at.

Russ
 
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Which Way Do You Play This?
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I'd miscue horribly sending the cue ball flying across the room where it would be stopped mid flight by a large unfriendly fellas leg. Then I'd make a hasty exit to avoid a nasty ass beating.
 
Dead Money said:
I'd miscue horribly sending the cue ball flying across the room where it would be stopped mid flight by a large unfriendly fellas leg. Then I'd make a hasty exit to avoid a nasty ass beating.
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Lol :D , you should work on your bridge.
 
More or less agree with Russ.

This is a straightforward run out by playing a soft very slight draw of a few inches leaving you a natural angle to get from 7 to 8 without effort.

For anyone other than a novice the 7 doesn't really become any easier a pot by getting the cue ball a few feet closer to it so there is very little advantageous percentage in the option of drawing with enough power to bring you back anywhere near reaching the side rail, let alone rebounding off it. Although drawing back like that isn't difficult why take the chance of getting it slightly wrong and leaving yourself too straight on the 7, when there is very little potential gain involved?

The follow through option coming around the angles and back out is an equally poor option percentage wise for similar reasons.

All three are fairly easy outs in any case so it's unlikely that many top players would even think about it too long, the short answers you would normally get from them to this one are likely to be purely based on personal preferences rather than percentages.
 
Haha, 7 feet of follow is no big deal, such a shot is pretty routine and not a bad option. I see some minor problems with it - it's not totally predictable how much the CB will 'stun' before following forward, and it's not super clear how it'll spin off 2 rails (it might come off higher or lower than the blue line drawn, depending on how much side was used and how well it takes). And because it's a lot of travel, the amount of speed needed isn't clear. There's tons of room for error though and I think the worst case is you leave yourself like 40 degree and medium-long cut on the 7.

I'd draw back to the side rail and try to get it to rebound out, aka option 1. You don't need a killer draw stroke or anything, and there's tons of room for error. There's a tiny chance of getting straight on the 7, but I personally tend to overcook draw rather than undercook it, so I'm more likely to accidentally draw to center table than I am to leave the CB parked at "A". You may not have super monkey draw at your disposal and therefore the safer option for you might be to just draw 2 feet to guarantee you don't get straight.
 
Russ Chewning said:
Draw your ball 6"-10" and just make the 7 with smooth top left, and you are going right to the 8. The angle on the 7 lays absolutely perfect, and allows you to hit the 7 at pocket speed and get right where you need. If you draw back any further, you end up having to hit the 7 ball harder, into an "unfriendly angle", with a possible jaw out.

Russ
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Exactly!! Why make something that is naturally simple and easy into something needlessly complicated?

Jim
 
i like the way russ put it. keep it simple the less you move the cueball the easier putting it where you want it. drawing back 6-10 inches isn't bad and it's a lot easier than following it 2 rails. even if you don't draw enough you could probably still get out
 
This thread reminds me of an entire philosophy towards pocket pool; that is to always shoot the shot with the least cue ball roll involved.

It brings to mind a fellow I've had the pleasure of losing a set to named Sam Manole (sp?). We got drawn against each other once in a tournament. The thing that really stuck out for me was the way that he almost NEVER shot a shot where the cue ball rolled absolutely more than neccesary. I had never seen anyone play that way intentionally. I was quite impressed. Even if he left himself a longer shot, he always chose the path of least cue ball roll.

Anywho, I guess I'd do what Russ suggested more or less. Draw it back and off the long rail for shape on the longer 7-ball shot IMO.:)
 
TX Poolnut said:
This thread reminds me of an entire philosophy towards pocket pool; that is to always shoot the shot with the least cue ball roll involved.
...
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Gheghe, my teammate also says that. He also told me not to use spin/english when it's not necessary. The funniest thing is, he used high spin/english on almost every shot.
 
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