Why Uniloc as the primary joint

M

maxeypad2007

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm having a hard time understanding why anyone would use this joint on a cue...given its easy to unscrew, which I get for things like a jump cue joint, but I feel like this joint is not very tight and provides very little feedback.

Specifically I don't quite get why predator is leaning this way.
 
i currently own a lucasi with a unilock joint, and personally, i don't mind the feel that much. I have shot with 3/8 and 5/16 joints that i liked, and ones i didn't like. it varies a lot for me...My cue is wood to wood jointed though...
 
i also have a lucasi with uniloc, the joint has always felt very tight and sometimes a little hard to turn. maybe yours is defective?
 
The uni-loc on my Samsara has a wonderful feel.. it's wood to wood though, so that might help.. but I've never once regretted the decision.
 
Yeah, there's nothing wrong with UniLoc. I mean, if you really like screwing your cue together for five minutes then yes, the UniLoc joint will leave you somewhat unsatisified.
 
In reality the uniloc joint is no different than a 5/16 x 14. I've used them before and still have a player with it and never had it loosen up on me. And it feels great.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
I mean, if you really like screwing your cue together for five minutes then yes, the UniLoc joint will leave you somewhat unsatisified.
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well duh, it's part of the ritual of playing pool isn't it????

walk to the table, screw your cue together slowly for half an hour while you survey the room, etc etc... ;)
 
worriedbeef said:
well duh, it's part of the ritual of playing pool isn't it????

walk to the table, screw your cue together slowly for half an hour while you survey the room, etc etc... ;)
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Play pool in Manhattan. With our hourly rates, you'll be screwing your cue together in the car on the way over.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
Play pool in Manhattan. With our hourly rates, you'll be screwing your cue together in the car on the way over.
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LMAO!!! Hey Jude (no pun intended), you're getting into SmorgasBored's and Ribdoner's territory with all the funnies!!!

Maniac
 
I played with a uni and it was just fine. Have you ever wondered why Predator, and Lucasi use primarily uni-loc?....hmmm

Lucasi....makes....Predator.
 
> It's NOT because they are cheap! A regular 5-16-14 joint pin from Atlas costs about 3 bucks,a matching brass insert is 1.50. The cheapest version of the UniLoc pin is the stainless steel,at 13.95,and the insert is 5.50. Of course their prices may be cheaper because surely they're buying in mass quantities,but it's still more expensive than a 5/16-14. It's also a litte more time-consuming to install the pin,insert process is the same.

If done right,it's as good as practically anything. If not done right,like a Lucasi a customer had,you better get used to tightening it up after every 2-3shots. Tommy D.
 
Craig Fales said:
In reality the uniloc joint is no different than a 5/16 x 14. I've used them before and still have a player with it and never had it loosen up on me. And it feels great.
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Let me rephrase that in that they are the same once together, a piloted joint.
 
My break cue has a unilock joint and I have to check it frequently to make sure it is tight because it tends to loosen up after a few racks. Based on my experience I would never use this joint on a playing cue.
 
i suspect a lot of players are attracted to the quick process of attaching the cue together. most people cant be bothered screwing a 3/8/10 pin together and the quick-fit feature looks kind of cool too i suppose.
 
I really enjoy screwing my wife 's cue together.. it takes a lot longer than my uni-loc but it does give you time to settle in.
 
To each his own but, "feel" is how the energy transfers from the tip to your hand. The more contact you have in the joint, more vibrations make it to that hand giving you a more accurate feel for what happens at the time of contact. This is why the Radial pin is so popular. It boast 97% contact when assembled. 3/8-10 is around 70%, 5/16-14, 18 have around 65%. There is a lot more than just joint contact involved but.....

I have not seen numbers on Uniloc but only a thread and a half makes contact. Yes, the threads are machined in a way to have more contact per thread but it is only a thread and a half. Let's say it is 80% for less than a 1/4" I'd rather have 65% contact over an inch-worth of threads. JMHO.

I am not making an argument for or against any certain pin/insert. Just want to spark thought and conversation.
 
How about..

ratcues said:
To each his own but, "feel" is how the energy transfers from the tip to your hand. The more contact you have in the joint, more vibrations make it to that hand giving you a more accurate feel for what happens at the time of contact. This is why the Radial pin is so popular. It boast 97% contact when assembled. 3/8-10 is around 70%, 5/16-14, 18 have around 65%. There is a lot more than just joint contact involved but.....

I have not seen numbers on Uniloc but only a thread and a half makes contact. Yes, the threads are machined in a way to have more contact per thread but it is only a thread and a half. Let's say it is 80% for less than a 1/4" I'd rather have 65% contact over an inch-worth of threads. JMHO.

I am not making an argument for or against any certain pin/insert. Just want to spark thought and conversation.
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I have had the uniloc "seeze" on shaft. I mean it is a pretty tight tolerance.

I have it on my pfd cue, it is an older one and it was all that Paul was using at one time. Now I think his standard is the Radial. I still like the joint, it isnt my prefered which is flat faced ivory.

I really dont find a huge amount of difference in the way a cue plays based on the joint. To me, I find the shaft is the MOST important thing, including tip (Moori-soft), and Ivory ferrell and a shaft 13mm-12.75 with a good taper.

There are a bunch of better players here than me, but IMO, I like the uniloc as I get tired of screwing. But Im alot older than most here at 44.

Ken
 
Ken_4fun said:
I have had the uniloc "seeze" on shaft. I mean it is a pretty tight tolerance.

Ken
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The seizing problem occurs because the brass dust is malleable and creates a "foil." The pin and insert have a very tight tolerance so when the foils lodges itself, the pin locks into the insert. This can be avoided by taking a q-tip and rubbing alcohol and cleaning the insert periodically.

If the cue does lock up. I can walk you through getting it apart or you can always send it to me.
 
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