I'm wondering how people face their ferrules with a lathe, I currently use a cue top sander and then replace the tip on my lathe but there must be an easier way. I have a Unique Products lathe and was told that I can use my cutter to face with but don't know if this is true, I know I can try it but I was wondering if anybody else does it this way.
Wondering
- Thread starter Ali88
- Start date
Ali88 said:
I would never want to knock someone's product but that Unique Products lathe is not that good from what I have seen. It has some clever ideas about it but I think someone would be better off getting a mini lathe. With some jigs and a little innovation you can do a lot with one and it is a real lathe.
Also, even if you get very serious about working on cues, you will still find a place in your shop for the mini lathe it will not just sit idol and you can learn the fundamentals of machining on a real lathe. You can pick up a mini lathe for in the $350 to $500 range and have a lot of fun with it. I can't imagine it not paying for it's self in a short time. I love mini lathes their really cool.
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macguy said:
Which mini lathe would you recommend?
Ali88 said:
With any kind of lathe, if you use a dial indicator to center your work, you can face off the end of the shaft, perpendicular to the length of the shaft. Or you could use the Q top sander to face off the top of the shaft. Then you would have to center the shaft in your lathe & trim the sides of the tip...JER
In that price range...
one can get a good used bench top lathe. I have a South Bend 9x24 circa 1950, I picked up with some tooling for $400 and it is not mini at all. A two man job to carry it, but solid and accurate. A comparable Chinese made lathe runs $800 and I doubt if it will run so true when it gets a few years on it. The spindle hole is small but can handle a shaft through it, and it is wonderful for ferrules, tips, shaft collars, and boring/threading the joint thread. It is not portable, but you cannot have precision and portable, it is a tradeoff.
one can get a good used bench top lathe. I have a South Bend 9x24 circa 1950, I picked up with some tooling for $400 and it is not mini at all. A two man job to carry it, but solid and accurate. A comparable Chinese made lathe runs $800 and I doubt if it will run so true when it gets a few years on it. The spindle hole is small but can handle a shaft through it, and it is wonderful for ferrules, tips, shaft collars, and boring/threading the joint thread. It is not portable, but you cannot have precision and portable, it is a tradeoff.
NineBallNut said:
In that price range they are about the same probably come out of the same factories. Here is a web site that can be fun to read.
http://www.mini-lathe.com/
Yes, you can with the CC.Ali88 said:
Cut off the old tip with utility knife.
Use a ground/sharpened 1/4 HSS tool cutter to face the ferrule off.
Those top sanders scratch the crap out of the ferrules' face imo.
I don't use them.
God forbid someone uses that on someone's ivory ferrule with 60 grit paper.
olsonsview said:
They are not that easy to come by, you have to know what you are looking at and have some ability to get it running right or fix it. I have looked at lots of lathes with people and it is rare you find one you can just take home and use, they always have missing or broken parts and if they have been in a machine shop for any of their life are worn out.
The Chinese lathes are fine for a cue maker many guys have Grizzly or other import lathes and are making a living with them. The amount of work the average guy will do with the lathe it will last him a life time. I would not want one in a production machine shop or factory but for what they are and what they can do most any cue maker or hobbiest would be more then happy with one.
I have all old American iron but it has taken years to get them. My favorite is a 13 x 88 inch Sheldon I bought from a boat yard that they got new. It was only used a few times a week when they needed to fabricate a part. It was in like new condition but that is a very rare find.
We put the lathe in the back of my nephews El Camino and his shocks went right to the frame. When we got it home we used a chain hoist on a tree to get it out of the car. Once on the ground it took us all day using wood and rollers to get it to the shop about a 150 feet away across grass. It must weigh like 1500 lb.'s
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Your Unique Products lathe will work just fine. Be sure to tighten down the screw that locks the carriage. Make sure you are getting a flat pass with no small dimple or a tiny piece sticking out of the middle. If you are then just loosen the two screws holding the block that holds the tool cutter, and wiggle and adjust until you get a smooth pass. You can practice with an old shaft or house cue until you get it cutting correctly.
I would NEVER use a Qtop sander...period.
And if you are just doing tips...you don't need another lathe either...trust me.
I would NEVER use a Qtop sander...period.
And if you are just doing tips...you don't need another lathe either...trust me.
> Back before I bought my lathe,which is an old Enco exactly like the one pictured here,I used the sander you refer to,but I modified it and also used a different technique than normal. I took the white 120 grit sanding discs from Wal-Mart with the glue backing,and glued it directly to the plate after having it ground flat. I used a razor blade and trimmed the oversized paper flush with the sides. I then made a plastic sleeve to keep the clamp from tearing the shaft up,which I had to shim to get it totally square to the ferrule. I set the guide rod into the innermost hole in the clamp,and move the clamp up close to the ferrule,and with my hand laying flat on the top with my middle and ring finger laying up snug with the wingnut,sand in a back and forth motion,less than 1/4 turn per pass. This is much easier on the ferrule,and more accurate to boot. When I bought my lathe,included with the tooling was a billet aluminum version of this tool that someone made. The benchtop metal lathes like I have now and are pictured on the mini-lathe.com link shown a couple posts ago will always have a place in my shop. For small work like tips and ferrules,and other stuff,they kick butt,it's just a matter of fabricating a good solid steady rest to use behind the headstock. They are also fairly mobile if mounted on a large enough tool cart,or ambulance gurney like Blud or Ted Harris. My traveling rig will be mounted on a 40" 14 drawer tool cart from Lowes. The Enco I have weighs about 100 pounds,easily rolled. The 9X20 size of this style machine weighs about 275,and some even have a large enough spindle hole that the brass insert installation can be done on it. I have only owned the Enco,so I can't give recommendations except their version,but most of them are made in the same factory,so they are pretty much the same. On the other hand,the one that has caught my eye for an eventual upgrade,is this one. It has digital speed control,a cam-lock tailstock,and has a digital x-y readout available. Tommy D.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82710
Tommy D.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82710
Tommy D.