they are lighter at 29". you need to longer to get your BP back.
Wood or carbon?
- Thread starter Bob Jewett
- Start date
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
Are you sure? You mean Predator is trying to fool little ol' me?
Lol.
Anyways, you seem pretty convinced torrified shafts are the best-est shafts ever, so use them.
I really don't care what anybody else shoots with.
I just give my experiences coming from 35+ years of maple to Vantage to Revo, and finally settling on the Vantage.
Ever heard of Ralf Souquet? He recently switched to Vantage after decades shooting with 314s.
Thomas Hohmann, Carlo Biado, etc. Guys that have been around. World champs.
But we're all different, stick with your torrified shafts if you like them! I'm not trying to sell anything.
While I'm not as knowledgeable as Joey, and never will be, I have a few wood shafts. Some McDermotts in solid wood and Gcore versions, Four Schon solids, Brunswick solids, one Joss solid, DZ solid, and 4 Jacoby Ultra laminated ones. The smoothest of all are the Jacoby 128 pc laminated. You actually can't see the laminations without looking really closely. My Schon solids are a really nice grain structure and consistent. The DZ is a whole different hit and look. Slightly muted and less crisp hit than the Schons, but very accurate and smooth hitting. If I could only have one shaft it would be the Jacoby Ultra. For solid wood I really like the feel and sound of the hit of the Schons, yet I seem to shoot slightly better with the DZ.
I didn't make any claims about which are the best.
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
You rambled about smoothnesss lol.
Anyways, moving on now
Ok. I have a pure-x and am fairly new to understanding all the nuances of cue types, why is that worthy of an lol?
I suspect he's saying he doesn't think purex shafts are all that low in deflection. If you like it I wouldn't worry about it. Search on deflection if you're unfamiliar, plenty of info available.
xX-Wizard-Xx
Well-known member
Anybody need Aleve
The Pure-X shafts only have a little 'lightening' under the ferrule area. They play good but are barely less deflect. than solid maple. If you like it don't worry what others say.
I use a "wood" (in quotes because the shaft does have a carbon rod/tube inside) shaft when on a 7ft Diamond (or any 7ft that plays on the faster side with proper rails)
I'll swap to a carbon shaft when on a 9ft or a slower playing table (slower cloth, Valley table at the pub, etc) For when I feel I need to put a little more to the cue ball around.
Both shafts have the same tip, but it's a very noticeable difference in the amount of power/energy transfer from full carbon and wood.
I'll swap to a carbon shaft when on a 9ft or a slower playing table (slower cloth, Valley table at the pub, etc) For when I feel I need to put a little more to the cue ball around.
Both shafts have the same tip, but it's a very noticeable difference in the amount of power/energy transfer from full carbon and wood.
jeffreylucky1
Member
The Emerald Ash Borer may make that decision for them sooner than later. All of my ash trees are dead and many manufacturers (Fender guitars recently announced no more ash) can no longer source ash.
But you don’t mention who made it. Secret?
This debate reminds me of the barrel twist and groove design discussions in the Gun forums. It is splitting hairs if you ask me. Perhaps we should all concentrate on delivering that .050 diameter aimpoint on whitey, and the OB with more consistency for accurate delivery.
just sayin'
just sayin'
Zerksies
Well-known member
Most can't do that. And if they say they can, they really can't.
I was at the NYC 3c tournament a couple weeks ago and was surprised at the lack of carbon used by the players.
Wish I had actual #s, but carbon/ wood ratio was in the 1:3/ 1:5 zone for sure.
Carbon won, that said
.