Wood to wood joint

Mole Eye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have considered buying some cues with wood to wood joints, but I am afraid of snapping them as I play. Is that a legitimate concern? Is there any advantage or disadvantage to a wood to wood joint?
 
I have considered buying some cues with wood to wood joints, but I am afraid of snapping them as I play. Is that a legitimate concern? Is there any advantage or disadvantage to a wood to wood joint?

Just how hard are you shooting and how much wrist torque are you using on your normal shots?

Flat Faced Joints with the big pin are my favorite. I've never had a problem.
 
You wouldn't have any greater chance of snapping a wood-to-wood joint than you do with what you're playing with now.

They have a different feeling to them than a steel or ivory, but I don't believe there are any advantages one way or the other. It's basically what your preferences are in feel (although many think there are no differences at all).
 
99 percent of cues are damaged during the break. A player LEANS on the cue, during the followthrough. The shaft bends, presure is put on the joint area. The joint is very strong, because you have the reinforcing of the joint collars & the 3+ inch joint screw. Then comes the weak point... they snap just behind the end of that screw. The joint type has nothing to do with the breakage. It's the 180 pound idiot that leans on a 19 OUNCE pool cue. The cue will always lose...JER
 
Well, I don't usually shoot very hard, but there's times I do. I use a lot of wrist torque on spin shots that require some speed. I certainly would not break with this cue. If snapping the cue at the jont is really not an issue, I will probably get one of these.Thanks for the help.
 
I have considered buying some cues with wood to wood joints, but I am afraid of snapping them as I play. Is that a legitimate concern? Is there any advantage or disadvantage to a wood to wood joint?

I bought a wood to wood cue a few months ago in Angles City. Radial Pin Joint. ROCK solid, perfectly straight. I wasn't shopping for a Cue, feel in Love with it. Classic 4 point Sneaky Pete. Entirely Amboyna Burl with "nearly" curly maple. It looks like candy. 300 bucks US. I went from playing with an unweighted natural solid pice of Philippine Ebony of a cue at 23.25 oz's to one of 18.91. Fully cored. Both have 11.5mm tips, conical taper. Best thing I ever did. I think that radial pin joint is the Cat's Ass!
 
Appreciate the info. If someone would, send a picture and description of a cue that you love with the wood joint, so I can get an idea of what people recommend
Thanks again
 
I wouldn't sweat it. If it were a weak design then it wouldn't be an appropriate one for the application, so makers wouldn't use it.

I'd be more concerned with your unconventional form...the twist being more harm than help for your game.
 
Here's a Helmstetter CCS (Carl Conlon Special) from the late 1990s:

Wood to wood, with the shaft thread turned right out of the shaft blank:

helccs1.jpg


helccs4.jpg


helccs7.jpg


Thanks

Kevin
 
Well, you must have seen me shoot somewhere. Seriously, maybe tourque in the wrist is the wrong term. I snap the wrist into the shot when I want to put a lot of spin and draw the ball. so far, it works very well, as that is probably the shot that I would say I make a high percventage of the time. It's those shots I shouldn't miss but do that drives me nuts! I seem to hoot much better with spin than playing middle of the ball. Any help I can get here would be great, although I really believe it is just taking shots for granted, which is a recipe for disaster. Anyway, thanks for the advice, and thanks for the picture of the McDermott.
T
 
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