i need somethin said:
well im looking foward into buying a custom cue but just dont know what to get. i want 2 spend around 500 - 1000. it doesnt have to be a big name but i think i want a cue with an ivory joint.
what is the difference with an ivory, steel, or wood to wood joint???
i was also wondering... if i was to get a cue made like a sneaky pete with the front part birds eye maple and the points ebony how much would that run me??? i dont want no veneers or nothing special. but i dont mind getting a used cue eighther.
i recently saw a richard black that looked pretty nice at first and it hit great... but when a friend of mine told me about some of his work being a little sloppy and pointed out what to look for without looking at the cue... i was pretty disappointed to see that he was right on everything he told me to look for so decided not to pay for something that wasnt up 2 par.
if any1 can help i will be more than happy to see what you got. thanks
Up to par huh? Sounds like you may not know exactly what you want to get, but you at least want a cue that's put together like it's supposed to be put together. I don't know what you're talking about with that Black cue, but if it hit good, you really can't complain. Custom cues aren't perfect. You have to understand that wood is not perfect. Custom cues are going to have little imperfections here and there. What you want to look at is how much the maker stands behind his product and the kind of hit/taper you like.
That cue Shawn's selling (ftgokie) is going to be one cue you wish you hadn't passed up. Ivory has a hit that is among the most desirable out of all the cues. You need to know what kind of hit you're looking for.
Steel hits hard (Schon), ivory is soft and may crack. Flat faced wood (SW) jointed cues are among the most desirable cause of the feedback or energy transfer. Lambros cues is famous for it's hit cause of the ultra joint and it is piloted. Get into a couple of cues from Troy (koinnkid) or Bamcues (Joe) or someone who would have a nice selection for you to pick from and get their opinions. Offer them I have found that for the most part, a cue is a cue. They are put together in the same basic way and the object is to produce something that will feel the most like a one piece cue. If you are not worried about looks, get a plain full splice made by a reputable maker. I personally favor Eddie Farris and Pete Petree here in my hometown and believe they make as good a cue as anyone in the world. If looks are important to you, you have different versions - traditional (4 pt, linen wrap, steel joint) modern, there are so many choices and variations you could go on and on forever. I gave up on searching for the 'holy grail' as some call it. Instead I'm gonna make my own.
Myself, I chose to go into cue making myself cause I believe I can make a great cue worth sharing with others.
With the ebony full splice you mentioned, it should cost around $3-500 to get a quality one made depending on the features. That Diveney grumps is selling is worth checking out. I hit a Diveney and it is superb. You could probably call up most any of the cue makers out there and order a cue aside from the big names like Searing, Tascarella, Ginacue, SW and such. Masonh, Frey, Omen, Crisp, Shurtz, Farris, Petree, Gilbert, Olivier, the list is endless. The names mentioned are all names you can't go wrong with. Get a bluebook. Most anyone on here is going to refer you to one cue maker or another because that's who they like. They have come to know that because of one thing. Experience. There is no other way to get that than to try em for yourself. Do yourself a favor and get a full splice from prathercue.com you won't be disappointed. Good Luck.
