Your custom cues performs like crap!

Big Foot is over, back to a so so day and then, I choose to click this thread...,
 
michael4 said:
Who makes the best PVC sneaky cue for under $500 ? :confused::confused:
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I'm sure I can. Certainly it couldn't be difficult or complicated to build such a basic tool.

Anybody with a sharpie can build a fancy one from what I have heard.

I'll even wrap it in wood veneer if you want so nobody knows about your secret weapon. It will look like a regular wood pool stick. I know it can be done, I have seen pictures of such veneer wrapping work on wood cues.

But I'll only work in ABS. PVC is inferior, clearly.

I can begin when you send 1/2 down via a Paypal gift. Sorry, I only accept payments by gift.



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Straightpool_99 said:
Ok, you've spent the last decade or two perfecting a long, straight, smooth and well timed stroke. You have also spent an ungodly amount on cues, looking for the one cue that will give you effortless draw etc..

Well, you are a SUCKER! Big time!

According to the physicists your expensive custom cue won't perform any better than a hollow pvc tube that has been weighted in strategic places to give the proper weight and balance. You need a tiny bit of wood or something one the end to support the tip, but that's it. It won't bend in time to have influence on the spin or power (probably). An expensive cue may stay straigh longer, but whatever, you can always get a new pvc tube.

If you want to shell out the big bucks, get a one piece ramin cue and drill out the end for about 6 inches, insert a small tenon and a paper thin ferrule. Now your cue is state of the art! Better performance than a Gina cue once you glue some lead tape to it to get the balance the way you want! The taper is without any significance what so ever, so never mind that aspect of it. Smaller tip is better of course, but that's the end of that discussion. And if you want to add a joint, any stiff material that fastens the cue pieces securely will do. Brass, steel, ivory, plastic, wood. The pros can't tell the difference, so you can't either.

Even though cue feel is mostly imagination and without any significance what so ever, should the vibrations become too bad you can always add some sort of piezo-electric fabric or extra large rubber bumper. You are welcome.

All that stroke work is worthless too. Better work on your Hopkins twitch, for accurate tip placement. Timing, smoothness etc can't prolong cue contact time, so screw working on that. You could also work on some sort of reverse slip stroke, so you can't grab or twist the cue before impact, since you can't do anything good with the grip anyway.

Luckily there is hope if you have been tricked into buying worthless garbage! I will send you a special "tuned' ramin cue for every high end (rubbish) cue you send me! Free of charge!
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It might actually be true. This is pretty much the whole pitch for "performance" shafts. And some of those who make them can actually demonstrate fairly convincingly how their shafts affect performance. (this is an example of a thread where I miss Royce)

The thing is that until Predator came along most development of pool cues was strictly feel based. People modified the parameters based on how they or the best player around them felt when using the cue. No one was doing any sort of scientific a/b comparisons, no one was making dozens and even hundreds of versions where each version was tweaked in a different way to find optimal performance.

Which is part of the reason that you see people with very high end cues who put Predator or other performance brand shafts on them. Those people certainly believe that the shaft makes a difference.

And it does. But what no one has studied conclusively - at least I have not seen any data on it - is what difference does the tip contact time mean for different hardnesses and constructions, with different chalk types (yes Dave I know), etc....

People laughed at Cuetec, they still do. But Cuetec did prove that it's possible to make a fiberglass clad cue that has enough performance to win major titles and a lot of them.

And honestly, I think that Ernie Gutierrez, would agree that it's possible to at least consider that cues don't have to be built in the shape and style they are now to provide the same or better performance as what we have now. I say that because Ernie worked in the high end racing field for a long time where performance is constantly being tweaked with the use of new materials and methods.
 
Chopdoc said:
I'm sure I can. Certainly it couldn't be difficult or complicated to build such a basic tool.

Anybody with a sharpie can build a fancy one from what I have heard.

I'll even wrap it in wood veneer if you want so nobody knows about your secret weapon. It will look like a regular wood pool stick. I know it can be done, I have seen pictures of such veneer wrapping work on wood cues.

But I'll only work in ABS. PVC is inferior, clearly.

I can begin when you send 1/2 down via a Paypal gift. Sorry, I only accept payments by gift.



.
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I would like duct tape rings, you know bush ka style. How long is the wait, can it be 10 years?
 
Suckers galore

I,ll bet you can bring your pvc pipe to just about any place and get played by all the (SUCKERS) with those stupid cues. With all that money you saved using that pipe(dream) .What a great hustle .Reminds me off Surfer Rod playing with a broomstick.Now instead of every machinest making cues retired pipefitters have a 2nd job.
 
Sometime around 1965 or 66 I bought my first cue. It was a blue anodized aluminum cue that never warped or sagged, no matter how many seasons I kept it in my trunk or tied to my motorcycle. That was before that PVC crap was even invented. My tubing cue could kick your tubing cue's ass.
 
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