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What beginner pool tip do you wish you learned sooner?

D
The stick thing is bs. I believe there are three phases a person should go through.

First, a beginner who is serious about getting better should buy a decent cue that is 18-19.5 oz. Play with that exclusively until they have developed decent cueball control.

Second, it is important to pay with anything. This is cross-training, and will assist in showing flaws and fixing them. It will also show that a cue is just a cue and not the reason someone is a good player.

Finally, the absolute best probably need to stick with the same cue.

If you believe that the cue is much of a factor, you are wrong and will likely always have it as an excuse.
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Chalk Habits and A Doozy of an AccuStats

ShootingArts
easy-e said:
I agree that most of the sales are for that reason. I've had a home table many times over the years, and they stay much cleaner with the Taom. To each their own, but $20 is nothing nowadays when everyone seems to have thousands of dollars worth of gear. My current piece has lasted me several months now and it's maybe halfway done.
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A home table is a good reason for cleaner chalk and with what I have spent on other equipment I sure wouldn't grudge spending on equipment that made for better success competing if I still was. I have spent over a thousand dollars to gain less than a tenth of a second or a hundredth of an inch smaller groups.

I ended up with six pieces of one super chalk or another in my case. I kept using the Master. After toting the other stuff six months or longer I gave it all to a friend. Master has never seemed to handicap me. Some of the other classic brands seem more inclined to cause miscues so I don't use them.

Hu
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Take all of the weight out of your break cue

skor
riedmich said:
In physical theory it semms like that the cue speed is the more dominant factor than the cue weight, this means for example 10 % more cue speed is accelerating the white ball more than 10 % more cue weight. That's theory.

I think the anatomy of players are even more dominant than cue speed or cue weight. It would be to me much more practically relevant that the playing cue and the break cue should have the same weight (and perhaps also the same balance point), because this is the dominant issue if it goes about muscle memory. The final question is: Until which level of action + power given by the player into the cue stick can a controlled stroke result!

Going into this question, it will result into the answer that the muscle memory is the most important and limiting factor. Knowing that we perform much more strokes with our playing cue than with the break cue, the muscle memory is calabrated mainly during the playing strokes, not by the break trokes.

For these arguments my conclusion is: Weight of playing cue and break cue should be identical.
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I disagree
You usually don’t grip the playing cue and the break cue the same, so balance and weight should not be the same. Any good instructor will teach you to grip the break cue more forward.
The body mechanics are also different, you should drop the elbow on a break shot but not during normal play, not to mention those who move the whole body during the break.

In my opinion, the break cue should have a bit forward balance point.
As for weight, it should be as light as possible while not losing control.
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JOSS CUE FAMILY TREE/INDEX BY SERIAL #

CajunPopeye
Biloxi Boy said:
Does an Index to Joss Cues by Serial # exist? With photographs? With written descriptions? I would love to find out where my Joss is in the family of Joss Cues. I would love to know more about my Joss's "brothers and sisters" but as far as I know, there is no such resource. Did Joss make "runs" of similar designs or was it just a scatter shot? Any ideas?
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Serial numbers are unique to the cue made. My cue started as an OP42. I had the rings from a 10-01 with steel joints . The Model number wouldn't do any good. Op42c20 is the official model number assigned from Dan. Only google results are for my cue. The current 20-42 listed on the website after my cue was built, is the closet you will find. Mine has the old time stitch ring joints. There are plenty of brochures with model numbers listed from the 80s up to 2002 in the cue and case gallery. There's also an album on social media with 70 or so photos.
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