take a vacation down south. join me in the sunshine.

or get your own f- 250 gasser with a boss plow and do jobs for yourself. i got one for my driveway , any temp i start it from my house and let it warm up.
even -20 or so.

block heater will run off a 12v battery with a 2000 w inverter. but your salaried so tell them if they wont give you electric or a way to warm up then you cant plow that day. no one builds a shop where there is no electric available.

and you do run number 1 diesel in winter and power service to stop gelling or it isnt starting anyway.
but a 7.3 is made to start in the cold. thats what they are for.

what i used to use for a plane was a camp propane stove and run a flexible duct up into the engine area and let the heat go in that way and twenty minutes everything was up to temp. this way the battery gets some help as well.

my tractors usually had number 2 in them still so it gelled and with the heater they warm up and ran fine . gelling starts like at just below freezing with number 2 diesel.
cold weather is the shiits.

For what its worth I am a mechanic/welder of 17 years so I am well versed in work shops.

I sat through Chris Miller selling a Calcutta back in 2013?
I was chatting with Joey A and Gray Ghost at the time. It was amusing, as it was my first time seeing this. Robley and Bigtruck were also hanging out with us.

Interesting design. Not a butterfly fan.

maha said:

if your plowing your raking in the bucks unless you got yearly contracts.
and a plugin block heater, or a tarp and a space heater under it the night before on a timer, solves most starting issues at any temp.

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I'm salaried as an employee, company handles yearly commercial contracts.

I'd use a block heater if our shop space had electricity. But we don't.

I've got a generator I can run the block heater on for a few hours if I must, but the damn thing wouldn't start today. Guessing that one is a shitty oil level sensor, most of em have that issue in my experience.

Any more ideas? haha.

HawaiianEye said:

The fast cloth and rails have killed all "strokes" if you ask me.

There is no such thing as a "power" game anymore. They have made the tables so fast that "bunting" is now called a stroke.

In the old days, it took a power shot to draw the cue ball long distances or to drive the cue ball three rails around the table for position.

Now you can bunt and do it.

The game has completely changed.

For the worse in my opinion.

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I have to agree with this.

I have the fortune of being able to play on a table that is like a time capsule from the 70s. Super slow napped cloth, balls feel lifeless compared to newer sets, rails aren't dead, but feel like it compared to even an old diamond. It's 9ft of wet concrete. If you don't have a stroke you can let loose, you're not getting far on that table.

Then I go play league on Diamond with worsted Simonis, freshly polished centennials, and it feels like if I do anything stronger than a stiff poke, the cue ball is gonna rocket off and do it's own thing. I have no interest in going 3 rails for position every time, so I have no "stroke" on new tables with fast / worsted cloth. At best, I can let a cannon off if I need a full table draw shot, but even then I've found myself going full table and off the short rail back into mid-table. Controlling a draw shot on this modern equipment seems like a fools errand. On the time capsule table, I at least know I am gonna hit that draw shot with all I got, and it still might come up short, but never ever long.

There's a group of people in leagues who obviously watch a lot of pro pool, because they try to have those giant big strokes and go 3-4 rails for position every single time on a damn bar box, and they wind up in a crap spot most of the time. On bar tables in league, I design the runs for stop shots, short follows, and at worst, sending the cue off 2 rails for position if I must. If I can't run a rack without having to do some hero shots and crazy 3-4 rail leaves, I am playing lock up safeties til it all lines up for me.