Without the side stroke your upper arm is vertical, so the cue only moves up and down (no sideways movement). With the side stroke your upper arm is not vertical, so the cue moves up and down and sideways.
Ebay's customer service is now NON EXISTENT and since 2018 or so any dispute that I've had that went to a case I've lost unless it was an item that a buyer claims wasn't delivered but tracking shows that it was. Even better I'm now paying DOUBLE or even up to triple the fees that I paid pre Covid because they hide my listings unless I pay a higher Promoted Listing fee (Literally just listed some fresh items and INSTANTANEOUSLY it's telling me to "Boost" my sales with Promoted Listings). If I don't do Promoted Listings or the % of my listings and Promoted % isn't high enough for Ebay and they stalk me via email or site messages every week until I do so. Ebay is the worst job I've ever had, all they will do is raise the fees every year or 2 and hide your listings even more so they can make more profit on your items than you do.
During production of "The Color of Money" in 1985, Paul Newman stunned his team with an unexpected decision. After contract negotiations that included luxury accommodations, daily wine deliveries,...
I deliberately wanted one of these for my collection and was looking for one. Being a bargain hunter I passed a number of them up before finding this one. I was very happy with the price, especially with two shafts.
What I hope to establish is that the shafts are original.
If not, no worries, I'm still happy with it.
I think my position is that they are original until it is proven they are not.
I'm going to guess they're original for two reasons. One, they look pretty old. Two, those very pronounced tongues were the case with original Adam cue shafts. Just an opinion. Jayman would have a good guess as well.
Interesting, I always thought this was a possible issue with a few setups I've seen, but I haven't heard of it happening yet.. Hopefully the lathe is still ok.
I just finished welding my lathe table together last week, it's now fully bolted down, with the main reason being I made small ''levelling blocks'', which help make the lathe run true and get rid of any potential bed twist (something I haven't really seen talked about much). Basically the lathe sits on bolt heads, which have been drilled and tapped, and a secondary, smaller bolt, bolts the bed to the larger bolt heads. What you can do then is level the lathe on multiple points, and take measurements as you do so, cut a piece, measure the diameters, and adjust the heights accordingly, which then brings the cutting knife closer in to the workpiece, or further out, until it cuts perfect.
I'm mentioning this so if someone decides to go ahead and bolt down their lathe after seeing your post, that they also consider setting up a similar system, depending on the lathe, to also get better accuracy out of it, because I don't think it's that much extra work.
Hopefully the image I tried attaching below works, if not, I'll try to edit the post and figure it out.
Good setup. I designed and installed multi-million dollar machines that use the same concept. We generally used three bolts next to each other at multiple points. Two would pull the bed down, flanking one that would push up. Many of our machines had beds over 80ft long and maintained under 5thou accuracy at the tool point.
I deliberately wanted one of these for my collection and was looking for one. Being a bargain hunter I passed a number of them up before finding this one. I was very happy with the price, especially with two shafts.
What I hope to establish is that the shafts are original.
If not, no worries, I'm still happy with it.
I think my position is that they are original until it is proven they are not.
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