I prefer Irish linen, because I like its feel and appearance. I prefer black/white if it complements the cue, but I think some cues' wood, joint, and butt cap, look better with white/double-black, white/double-brown, brown/white, or white/green.

I don't dislike leather. If I were to get a leather wrap, it would be black or brown bison leather.

phinmole said:

That's awesome. Can I have the name of the pro shop? Id like to purchase it.

Click to expand...

You beat me to it.

You too fast for me!

@luv1pocket send him that info in a DM. He jumped on it first, he has dibs. If you post it openly here it will be a riot. I won't do it, but a dozen other people watching and not commenting might. Nothing against them for trying. Phinmole is good people, straight shooter, he should get dibs on this.

luv1pocket said:

I saw an old one piece Ebony Dufferin with butterfly points on both sides at my local pro shop. I was interested in buying and converting. I then rolled it and it had a big wobble. Maybe all in the shaft don't know. The cue looked like it had sun damage as the ebony looked worn and discolored.
I have an older 1 piece Ebony I bought years ago was going to convert still deciding. Others converted by Mueller. Also have 3 new Ebony Excalibar with Glider joint for sale on here.

https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/new-dufferin.588254/#post-8478873

Click to expand...

Those ones you have for sale are the ones currently available from FG Bradley in Canada, are they not?

I think it’s more than just the speed of the tip when making contact. If you take it from one extreme to the other it makes a big difference in energy transfer. Example:
If what’s behind the tip is a feather vs a steel rod and the tip speed is the same at CB contact the feather will collapse on contact and not transfer much energy to CB whereas the steel rod will not collapse
If there’s a difference in extreme to extreme there has to be a difference at all points in between although it be minuscule .

Great looking cue

SBC said:

Anyone owed a cue needs to join together in legal action and share legal fees. If 5 or 10 did so, the costs would be reasonable. If you can prove they acted wrongly by depriving owners of their property, you may be able to also recover legal fees.

Click to expand...

Even better you could try to get a class action status

Zerksies said:

looser grip and move the arm faster try not to put muscle behind it

Click to expand...

That will help you move the cue faster.

The cueball is gone too fast for the grip on the cue to matter. It has been proven many times.

fastone371 said:

The cue ball doesn't feel a heavier cue, if it did a heavy cue would be a requirement for ca fast break shot.

Click to expand...

Sure it does p=mv. The problem is that as the weight increases your ability to move the cue fast decreases. So there is a weight beyond which it is not productive for a particular individual to increase the weight of the cue.

Good to hear that u r going to see an instructor. He'll set u up such that the 4 key elements brknrun mentioned work together nicely.

He's absolutely right, you never want to be micromanaging ur stroke and trying to force it str8. Just set it up and let it go where it wants to. If grip, stance posture, alignment are right, it will want to go down the shot line anyway so no need to make sure of anything.

Looking forward to ur post lesson update. As DQ mentioned, don't be surprised if u have to dance that 1 step back to go 2 steps forward dance that all stroke tinkerers are familiar with.