I don’t think I have ever been in a pool room anywhere in the country where there haven’t been at least a couple of high speed players who would be worth asking for instruction — who play well and aren’t complete Neanderthals.

Depending on your level you can get basic advice to much more esoteric insights for the price of table time, lunch, a couple of drinks, or some cheap games.

You can ask some basic questions like: can you give me any tips to improve my mechanics; how do you shoot this shot; what is the right shot in this situation; and so on. Be nice, respectful, and show a modicum of gratitude.

Lou Figueroa

garczar said:

These thrift/pawn shop miners digging for gold are getting old. How much of this shit do we have to fade? AZ needs a 'Penthouse or Outhouse' sub-forum for this stuff.

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This is so funny.

I recently snagged an "unbranded" cue on eBay for $15, open auction, nobody else bid.

I guess nobody knew what it was. It's a late 1960s National cue. I collect National and Gandy, so it was a nice find.

Me...sitting in the outhouse...

.

jimmyco said:

I don't think the latest resin matters all that much on a home table.

The OP's set latest resin was developed at least 32 years ago and they have lasted 32 years and are still in good condition.

How many spans that long do any of us have left?

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It doesn’t matter for longevity, correct. But it matters for how clean they stay, and how easy they are to polish.

The super Aramith pro resin stinks in that regard compared to both the aramith Duramith resin, and the dynasphere resin.

I bought my super aramith pro set brand new, and from day 1 was disappointed at how dirty they get. In contrast, Duramith and dynasphere you can get by without even having a polisher.

The above is all for home use personal experience.

ShootingArts said:

Obviously a food day for me! Toss that funny looking sausage, maybe keep one piece for variety. Add bacon. Get rid of three-fourth of those hash browns, add grits. Is that toast wasting space under the eggs? Add grits instead, flavor with the eggs and more bacon. Sideboards would look good on that plate and it would hold more bacon!

Some sickos selected a Shoney's Inn for the official hotel of an International Invitational Benchrest shoot. It of course had a Shoney's buffet in the front of it. Made me have to get up an hour early and be too tired to shoot well. The sweets didn't help. A bowl of grits, breakfast food, bacon stacked until the breakfast food was out of sight, a plate of biscuits and gravy, wash that down with a pitcher or two of fresh orange juice. The problem was that I couldn't resist topping it off with some of the mini-cinnamon rolls on a saucer, a pint or two of milk to wash them down.

Damned sugar from the cinimmon rolls jittered my nerves!

Hu

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I miss having grits….hard to come by when ya live up nort.

Nice cue

TheRooster said:

I’ll buy! PM me.

Edit: I mistook the shaft diameter, and I'm not interested in 12.9 mm. Sorry!

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All good my friend. AZB it’s still available.

This is the old one I have ..

could not find how foul disputes are to be handled, when no referee is present. (Just that there are new rules on this.)
Say my opponent watches a close call. He is not neutral by definition. say my shirt came close to touching a ball while I was going down over a ball. The ball didn't move, it wasn't in any path of the shot. It's a close call. I say, I was above the ball without touching it with my shirt. He grabs the cue ball as ball in hand since he is referee and thinks he saw me commit a foul. (He "saw" me commit a foul earlier in the game when it definitely wasn't one. I hit the lowest ball first, but it was a very thin hit and he didn't see it.)

so what's the ruling here?

If I think my opponent made a foul and there is no referee present I will give him a look and ask if he is sure, it was a correct hit. If he sticks to his story, that it was no foul, I don't argue (since it's never worth it and I don't care.) On a close situation I will call a referee or some bystander to act as a referee.

vintagecollectibles831 said:

Yeah, I am sure that it is a very well made, and quality cue, but I just think the simulated Ebony really cheapens the cue.

I do not think that any $500 cue should have any sort of spray paint, decals, or overlays. It is basically a very well made cue with painted overlays.

If it ever gets refined, then that simulated Ebony will get sanded right off, and the cue will look really ugly, and ruined.

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You are in a time warp my friend.

vintagecollectibles831 said:

So, they stain it completely black, to make it look like Ebony. I assumed it was some sort of Black spray paint, lol. Why do they not just use different wording, that makes more sense, like "Stained Black"? The term "Simulated Ebony" confused me. Should just say "Stained Black, over Maple", if that is what it is. So, that stain will not come off during a refinish, right?

And, is Ebony really that expensive, that it can't be used in a $700 production cue? I guess they are just maximizing profit. Just sounds cheap to me.

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Any custom cuemaker charges at least 750 for a merry widow now. Usually over a thousand and there is one merry widow for sale on here for over 3000. They are charging a premium now for Ebony, tulipwood, etc. Tascarella told me bocote was a premium wood you pay more for. What a joke. Ive got a jacoby and schuler llc listed reasonable. Not one reply.

Paul_#_ said:

Rich Qs sold on eBay in some of the last ten months for $100, $90, $105, and something less than $145. The highest was that below --- $190. So, yes, the ShopGoodwill Rich Q was pricey.

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The inexpensive nature is part of what makes them fun to collect. An occasionally there are some real bargains.

The Goodwill auctions got really crazy. Several years ago there were bargains galore. Now? I don't know what people are thinking with the prices they are willing to pay. Yes, the economy, but it's not just that.

I look once in a while, but progressively less often.